I hate to bring this back up but im gonna turbo my 6 port this winter. The engine has got 145k on it. I want to do a good compression test and if it turns out positive I was thinking of turboing with no rebuild..I was reading in the 2nd gen forum of people turboing an engine with 180K with no rebuild. But my main prob is I don't want to blow an apex seal into my turbo..so how can I avoid this? and also who thinks I should do it?? I guess it wont bother me if it pops as long as I don't get a seal or somthing into the turbine and **** it up. thx

 

Make sure your afr's are good and stay with stock boost, that will keep the engine alive the longest. The more time in boost, the shorter the life. If you toss a seal, the housings are probably past thier prime anyway, there is no way I know of to protect the turbo if a seal decides to exit stage right.

I wouild be looking for replacement parts now to have them hand because that day will come. This way you can get your tuning down on an old engine and not have to learn by mistakes on a fresh rebuild.

 

ill believe it when i see it. why wait till winter. it can be done for under a grand and a weekend of work. quit talkin and start walkin son

 

Give me your breakdown of how it can be done for under a grand! I would like to see this.

 

Turbo manifold $200
Megasquirt $300
Extra injectors $100
Exhaust $300
SS DP $150
Wideband $400
BOV $200
IC $150
IC pipe $100
Cone filter $50
Boost gauge $50

That right there is 2k I am sure that there is some others that I missed. You can go cheap with a lot of things or you can do it right IMO. Either way it is still cheap for a turbo 7.

 

i turbo'd my SE made 247 at the wheels

 

another question. will my flywheel and a 2nd gen tranny hold up ?

 

The second gen tranny should hold up to around 300 horsepower or a bit more, from my understanding. The flywheel... well why wouldn't it? You may want to upgrade to a lightweight flywheel just to get faster revs, but I would be worried moreso about the clutch and pressure plate, not the flywheel. If you have a stock clutch in it after the turbo setup then you'll surely burn it up with the difference in power; this assuming the turbo you are going to go with is going to add a significant amount of power and isn't going to be some small turbo with around 5 psi or something.

 

Another gonna do thread. First off, rebuild it first! Secondly, how about a "look what I've done" thread.

 

s4 turbo and manifold $200 MAX
2.5 inch racing beat downpipe $100 brand new
stock gsl-se ecu takes 10psi fine before it goes haywire.
no need for extra injectors
no need for wideband
bov, 50 bucks on ebay.
volvo 740 ic, drops right in on $40 bucks
ic pipe $100
filter $20
boost gauge $20
misc lines gaskets etc $200
u dont need top of the line **** like Z did on his fdwannab which is an amazing car
if your on a budget it can be done easily for under a grand.

 

^^ haha I agree it is all in the deals that you can find.

I am not a junkyard hopper though

 

TII exhaust manifold bolt right up or do you need an adapter? GSL-SE work with a SAFC? When do the SE injectors run out of steam?

 

your going to have to get a spacer from racing beat unless you are going to use the Turbo II intake manifold!

no the SAFC will not work on the SE its been tried by plenty of ppl

they se injectors 680 cc injector and i beleive the high impedance, i think , and gen2 turbos are running somewhere around 550 and there is 4 of them so you cant boost too much on SE injectors with out adding more injectors

 

uhhhh i was pretty sure you could hack up the wires at the ecue and use the SAFC.... cake did it... if not i think you can get a TII ecu or somthin I dont remember but I got it somwhere on what you need to do...