my car is in a shop to get it running again. they called and said i need a new ignition ignitor ($364) and a fuel pump relay ($45). anyone know how i can get that ignition ignitor for less??? and is this something i could replace myself? (minor to medium difficulty)

any help is greatly appreciated. i live in haymarket, va near manassas.

 

check your private messages. i pm'ed you.

 

thank you seniorchief!

 

use a GM ignitor

 

The GM ignitor thread is right here:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/how-gm-igniters-replace-j-109-a-527209/

 

only as a tempory

go to junckyard and sneakly take any j109s in site

 

im sure the fuel pump only needs a lil releay like 30amps or somthin

imho i wouldnt take my car to a mech these days rip off
the qoute for the igniters bout right but ya can get them cheaper off mazdatrix have a look

 

If you are forced to buy a new ignitor, Autozone and the like have them for about $150. Finding a used one will require a little more research but will easily save you $100. Replacing the unit is not that difficult with a few pointers that anyone that has been there can point out. Retro fitting over to GM ignitors requires some fabrication and basic electrical skills but well worth it. I fitted my SE with GM ignitors a year ago and is still going strong. Just for giggles, my SE would not start yesterday at work and just knew it was an ignitor issue. I had a friend run me down to Advance to test the modules. The employee asked what the module went to and I told him it was a Mazda, he was at a complete loss of words. I had to explain a GM module could replace the oem part for a tenth of the price. Come to find out one of the spade connectors on the module lost tension resulting in poor contact and just needed to be slightly crimped. DOH!

 

how was yours wired up?
is it anything like my write up?

 

The fuel pump might not run if the trailing ignitor is bad. If you replace the ignitor, then your other issue might already be solved.

Get your car back from the garage, and do this work yourself. All of the info that you need to get this running again can be found here, and the work will not be anything really difficult.

 

I mounted the units on piece of angle aluminum flat and mounted it to the strut tower using existing mounting holes. The wiring harness connects to the original coils and to gutted j109s on the dist. that had the internal pins jumped together.

 

I hope its a dead one since you're not to kill a "good" ignitor

 

It would not have been in my best interest if I did being that I still have a GSL with the stock ignition. It's funny how the couple times I have posted gutting some j109s I have to go back and qualify that they were faulty units. I had been saving some suspect units for several years just incase there was some hope for them. It was not until I put together a bench tester using a spare dist., coil, plug wire and spark plug that removed all doubts that they were toast. Funny thing is that some passed as good units using the mickey mouse method outlined in the FSM. When I put them in a mock ignition setup, faulty units would barely produce a spark if one at all.

 

thanks for the replies.

this is the plan right now. problem is, i can only find one salvage yard within an hour of me that has any rx-7. they have an 83 rx-7. does the 83 have the same j109 ignitor as an 85? i need the second one. (the one that is between the motor and distributor cap)

 

From 81 to 85 are all the same. And both will interchange as they are the same.

The 109 can also be found on some other cars. Dads Plymouth truck has a 105 like the 80 RX did.


Used in the for sale section the price is about $25 each.


The work to change them is Very Easy. One connector and two philips screws.


The Fuel pump should work once you change it, if not just install a jumper wire, There is a thread on where to put the wire, Look for Evil Relay.


.

 

I'm having an ignitor sale right now. Last year I picked up a bag of them on ebay for real cheap. They all tested good with the volt meter and the two that I have used to replace bad ones in my cars worked fine. $25 for two, shipping included (I think I have three or four sets).

Ray

 

have j109s been put on any other cars but the 7?

 

looks like the 109 is only used in a Mazda



MITSUBISHI
J007X00471
J109
MAZDA
E301-24-910



MAZDA
RX-7




1982-85




The 105 is in a lot of cars




MITSUBISHI
DJE 283
J 105
CHRYSLER
MD607400
FORD
D97Z-12A97B
LUCAS
DAJ 212
MAZDA
8173-24-910



MITSUBISHI MOTORS
MD607364
MD607400



MITSUBISHI
Colt, Sapporo 2000
Sigma GH Astron 2.0, 2.6
CHRYSLER
FORD
MAZDA
121 1.3, 626 2.0
OPEL
Corsa 1.6i
Kadett 1.8i, 2.oi, 16V
Omega 1.8, 1.8i
Vectra 2.0 16V, 4x4




1981-84
1980-84



1978-83

1988-91
1984-91
1988 on
1989 on




http://www.spectromatic.bg/spectro/c...ion/index.html

 

if the fuel pump doesn't work after you replace the ignitor, you can eliminate it.

fuel pump relay location and bypass

 

Look on ebay. I picked up a couple for about $20 each.

 

I'm running 3 7s with J109s and I've never lost one yet (tho I carry a couple spares in each car). I suspect that failures are due to overheating, possibly because the heat-conducting grease is missing where the J109 mounts.

 

just buy heat sink compound for a computer cpu from radioshak or any compter store should be chaep

 

ok, found a guy who sold me a distributor and 2 j-109's for $50. hopefully we'll have this bugger fixed today.

 

[QUOTE=bliffle]I'm running 3 7s with J109s and I've never lost one yet (tho I carry a couple spares in each car). I suspect that failures are due to overheating, possibly because the heat-conducting grease is missing where the J109 mounts.

Can you purchase this grease you speak of?

 

RadioShack is the easiest place to get it:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

They carry it in store. Also, any computer shop should have it. It is used on heatsinks.