I just bought a 1985 Mazda RX-7. There's just a few mechanical problems, but my dad and i will be able to fix them. Exterior wise it has rust spots. I was just wondering if anybody has found a good way of getting rid of the rust?

 

where is the rust? usually through sanding, prepping, primering and painting.

 

Only one way that I know of...lots of hard work by following mazdaverx713b's advice.

 

Rust never sleeps !!!!!

 

I bought for my son what I thought was a great 84 GSL for $1000, that appeared to be in real good shape with no signs of rust, until I noticed a small pin hole in the driver's side rear wheel well. After taking the inside panels off, it was obvious that not only was the rust extensive, but rendered the car unsafe due to the shock tower. Well I wasn't going to screw over someone else, and I was going to put my son's life at risk, so I had to get it fix. I had to have the entire wheel well fabricated, the cost $450. So I guess my advice is take the thing into a well known body shop and let them look at the damage to make sure there's no structual/safety problems, then decide how you're going to fix it or part it out.

Good Luck

 

Here's a solution.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/479957/8

Ray

 

Yeah...I'd recommend just sanding it down really well, and painting it with that anti-rust paint ****, for some reason I want to call it rustoleum...

 

The only way to GET RID of the rust is cut out the affected area and weld in new.

The problem with that is, unlike certain other 70's Japanese cars (ahem 240Z), there simply isn't anything available except for fenders, hoods, and front nose panels, and those don't seem to rust very often. Your only hope is to find a rust free donor body, and if you do, you're probably better off just using its shell instead of your rusty one, unless you manage to find a rust free wreck that is straight in the areas that you need.

I keep saying nothing is available, because, although that is true to the best of my knowledge, I have the not-so-secret hope that somebody will prove me wrong! And then I will spend lots of money on replacement panels, then ready the MIG.

edit: ray green's link shows a nice way of dealing with minor bin rust. wouldn't want to try that method for when it's bad enough to reach in and physically remove the amps, like my car. Funny thing is, the rust didn't look *that* bad until I started lightly tapping at it with the handle of a screwdriver. And experience says that rust will extend about twice to three times as far in all directions from where you *think* it ends.

 

Where the hell were you guys last week before I spent $450 having the wheel well replaced. Ray Greens Pics of the "bin rust" is exactly what I had. His fix looks cheaper that the $450 I spent. I will admit though my rust seemed to be more extensive, I couldn't reach in an touch the amps, but is was close. I will keep his fix in mind for the passenger side when it's due.

Blueraven

 

My take on this is that the double walls are a bad idea. You will ALWAYS get moisture on the floor inbetween the walls. When I fixed it, I had the inner wall cut out from the floor to the bridge looking peices near the shock towers and seam welded everything closed.