fuel injected
#1
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fuel injected
hey guys....
how much does it cost to go fuel injected? my baby is 12a carberated now.
i may just do a swap to a 13b fuel injected. but i was just wondering which is cheaper.
how much does it cost to go fuel injected? my baby is 12a carberated now.
i may just do a swap to a 13b fuel injected. but i was just wondering which is cheaper.
#2
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hm the computer and all the other crap will probably cost u around 2k AUD..
when u do a 13b fi swap.. prolly add a thousand more..
btw.. how much HP difference does a 13b have to a 12a FI ?
when u do a 13b fi swap.. prolly add a thousand more..
btw.. how much HP difference does a 13b have to a 12a FI ?
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
You need larger size lines, fuel pump, reg., manifold, tb, rails, ecu, etc. Probably someplace like TWM could give you an estimate for everything if you call or email them. http://www.twminduction.com
You might find used stuff around in for sale ads. Swapping to a stock FI engine might be the cheapest option but with less power.
You might find used stuff around in for sale ads. Swapping to a stock FI engine might be the cheapest option but with less power.
#5
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
84/85 SE's; 135hp, 130 lb/ft torque, IIRC.
79-85 12a's; 105hp, 95 lb/ft torque, IIRC.
Owning one of each, I say that there's more to be appreciated with the EFI 13b due to a lower torque curve and graph that adds a pleasing amount of acceleration to the car beyond just the numbers. The SE's have the 6-port induction which allows for both low RPM torque and high RPM breathing, so you really get the best of both worlds.
Plus, from my standpoint, I'd rather troubleshoot EFI systems than carbs - but many would beg to differ.
To answer your question of how much it would cost - that would really depend greatly on whether you want the 'stock' SE RE-EGI (Rotary Engine - Electronic Gasoline Injection) system, or an aftermarket system. I'll try to explain the options briefly;
1) Stock 13b Mazda EFI system - if you can find an SE donor car, you're going to need the ECU, the wiring harness, the airflow meter, the O2 sensor, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, most of the exhaust system (unless you go header), the Fusible Links, and some other small parts that you'll find out you need later one (hence the donor). This could cost you as much as $500 for an SE in good condition, but plan on an engine rebuild at that price. For anything more than that, you may as well buy an SE and build on THAT car, rather than try to retrofit the EFI system into your existing car. Benefit is that once you get it all hooked up, there's very little tuning involved - Mazda has done all the work for you.
Option 2) Custom installation - this will require a custom EFI intake plenum, some type of AFM or hot-wire Mass Airflow sensor or a good aftermarket computer that accounts for engine RPM for the fuel map. You'll also likely want to go with a programmable unit which will allow you to fine tune. You'll need all the fuel systems listed above (in option 1), and also need a good amount of ingenuity to make this work. Once you get it all installed, you're going to need a few hours on a chassis dyno to tune it all so that it'll run well.
Performance between the two - likely very similar. Cost and expense would be higher with #2. Easiest installation and troubleshooting would go with #1. Stock EFI system in the 13b SE's will have resources on this board to help you out. HTH,
79-85 12a's; 105hp, 95 lb/ft torque, IIRC.
Owning one of each, I say that there's more to be appreciated with the EFI 13b due to a lower torque curve and graph that adds a pleasing amount of acceleration to the car beyond just the numbers. The SE's have the 6-port induction which allows for both low RPM torque and high RPM breathing, so you really get the best of both worlds.
Plus, from my standpoint, I'd rather troubleshoot EFI systems than carbs - but many would beg to differ.
To answer your question of how much it would cost - that would really depend greatly on whether you want the 'stock' SE RE-EGI (Rotary Engine - Electronic Gasoline Injection) system, or an aftermarket system. I'll try to explain the options briefly;
1) Stock 13b Mazda EFI system - if you can find an SE donor car, you're going to need the ECU, the wiring harness, the airflow meter, the O2 sensor, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, most of the exhaust system (unless you go header), the Fusible Links, and some other small parts that you'll find out you need later one (hence the donor). This could cost you as much as $500 for an SE in good condition, but plan on an engine rebuild at that price. For anything more than that, you may as well buy an SE and build on THAT car, rather than try to retrofit the EFI system into your existing car. Benefit is that once you get it all hooked up, there's very little tuning involved - Mazda has done all the work for you.
Option 2) Custom installation - this will require a custom EFI intake plenum, some type of AFM or hot-wire Mass Airflow sensor or a good aftermarket computer that accounts for engine RPM for the fuel map. You'll also likely want to go with a programmable unit which will allow you to fine tune. You'll need all the fuel systems listed above (in option 1), and also need a good amount of ingenuity to make this work. Once you get it all installed, you're going to need a few hours on a chassis dyno to tune it all so that it'll run well.
Performance between the two - likely very similar. Cost and expense would be higher with #2. Easiest installation and troubleshooting would go with #1. Stock EFI system in the 13b SE's will have resources on this board to help you out. HTH,
#6
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I agree with LD, the SE's are so much funner to drive than the GSL's. The torque curve is really nice to have coupled with the upper end of a carbed car, its just the best of both words. I am in the process of selling my fleet of 7's and I will be using all the procedes to find a mint -SE (I get tired of working on them, just wanna drive them now). IMO
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
A common feeling is that the stock SE with 13B FI is preferable to a stock carbed 12a. IMHO, both the stock carb and the stock FI suck. A better carb or better FI on either engine would again in my opinion be preferable to both stock configurations. It requires different experience/skills and equipment to tune carb vs. FI and personal preference is involved. Shop around and see what you can find for your budget; that might be the deciding factor.
#9
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thanks longduck. that helped me. i am going to look around and see what i can find for the best price. the reason i am switching from a carb to FI is because the carb can cause so many little problems and its so hard to figure out and fix. i would like mechanical secondaries but once you start messing around with stuff and modding it, the carb seems to get mad at you. hahaa! i DON'T want to deal with that. ive watched it happen to someone else and it sucked.
thank you guys for the input!
--lauren
thank you guys for the input!
--lauren
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