Front sway bar removal/installation
Front sway bar removal/installation
I was wondering how hard it was to remove the stock sway bar/bushings, and install an RB sway bar/bushings. Looking at it from underneath the car, it looks like I'll need to remove the tension rods, or is it possible to slide the bar out and install a new one without removing those tension rods?
It’s impossible to remove the bar without removing the Tension rod brackets. If you're replaceing the bar you’ll need to remove the tension rods and the rod brackets and if you’re going with the larger RB sway bar you may have to enlarge the tension rod bracket holes the sway bar passes through. But the bushings can be done with the bar on the car. But it's a lot easier to replace the bushing when the bar is off the car.
Last edited by Rm4TWO; Aug 25, 2005 at 01:58 PM.
I just did this about 4 weeks ago and I had to enlarge the braket holes with a grinder. You have to make then about 5 mm bigger. I also had to replace the sway bar tie rods since they were so rusty. I think it cost about $30.00 for both side from the auto parts store. Oh yea, it is impossible to replace the sway bar with out removing the brackets. I also noticed that the ne sway bar rubs on the body a little bit.
to replace the SWAYBAR BUSHINGS only, there is no need to mess with the tenssion rods. It's only the endlink and the bushings where the swaybar mounts to the tenssion rod brakets you need to replace for the swaybar.
Maybe give us more info. on what you want to do if we haven't helped you out already.
Maybe give us more info. on what you want to do if we haven't helped you out already.
Removing the front swaybar is easy. The hardest part is getting the undertray off without breaking the bolts or the flimsy sheetmetal they thread into.
You only have to remove one strut rod, it's just like four bolts in the front and two at the control arm and done. You can unthread the swaybar through the other one.
Only took me about 40 minutes with hand tools to yank my bar off. That's less time than the rear bar took, because (miraculously) I had no siezed bolts.
edit: You can nevermind the comment about the undertray. I love working on SoCal cars (had one in today actually!) because it's like there's no such thing as rust. The Neon today was a '96, and everything just flew right apart no problem. The '95, local all it's life, that I am currently procrastinating working on, can be unlocked from the outside with your hands, and most bolts look like they were salvaged from the Titanic. If there's even anything holding 'em on anymore.
You only have to remove one strut rod, it's just like four bolts in the front and two at the control arm and done. You can unthread the swaybar through the other one.
Only took me about 40 minutes with hand tools to yank my bar off. That's less time than the rear bar took, because (miraculously) I had no siezed bolts.
edit: You can nevermind the comment about the undertray. I love working on SoCal cars (had one in today actually!) because it's like there's no such thing as rust. The Neon today was a '96, and everything just flew right apart no problem. The '95, local all it's life, that I am currently procrastinating working on, can be unlocked from the outside with your hands, and most bolts look like they were salvaged from the Titanic. If there's even anything holding 'em on anymore.
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Originally Posted by thedonn007
I just did this about 4 weeks ago and I had to enlarge the braket holes with a grinder. You have to make then about 5 mm bigger. I also had to replace the sway bar tie rods since they were so rusty. I think it cost about $30.00 for both side from the auto parts store. Oh yea, it is impossible to replace the sway bar with out removing the brackets. I also noticed that the ne sway bar rubs on the body a little bit.
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