Front Brake Caliper Removal
#1
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Front Brake Caliper Removal
I am working on getting the front brake caliper off and the Hayne manual states that I need to remove 4-locking clips and the stopper plates - I looked at the caliper and can't see these anywhere. I've used the search function and no information, so I put out the question to the board...where are these?
Are there any other problems I'm going to run into after I get those out - like removing and getting to that lower 14mm bolt partially hidden by the steering knuckle or anything else?
My 84 and I thank you in advance!
Are there any other problems I'm going to run into after I get those out - like removing and getting to that lower 14mm bolt partially hidden by the steering knuckle or anything else?
My 84 and I thank you in advance!
#2
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are you just changing calipers or what??
If you're just removing the caliper there is only one bolt that holds it in. From there you just slide it to the outside and pull it off. Then the only thing holding it is the Brake hose. I think the bolt was a 12mm ... will have to double check.
For the "locking clips" I think that they're referring to the clips that hold the brake pads in. And the plate, well that would just be the plate right behing the brake pads too.
If you're just removing the caliper there is only one bolt that holds it in. From there you just slide it to the outside and pull it off. Then the only thing holding it is the Brake hose. I think the bolt was a 12mm ... will have to double check.
For the "locking clips" I think that they're referring to the clips that hold the brake pads in. And the plate, well that would just be the plate right behing the brake pads too.
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Originally Posted by dj55b
are you just changing calipers or what??
If you're just removing the caliper there is only one bolt that holds it in. From there you just slide it to the outside and pull it off. Then the only thing holding it is the Brake hose. I think the bolt was a 12mm ... will have to double check.
For the "locking clips" I think that they're referring to the clips that hold the brake pads in. And the plate, well that would just be the plate right behing the brake pads too.
If you're just removing the caliper there is only one bolt that holds it in. From there you just slide it to the outside and pull it off. Then the only thing holding it is the Brake hose. I think the bolt was a 12mm ... will have to double check.
For the "locking clips" I think that they're referring to the clips that hold the brake pads in. And the plate, well that would just be the plate right behing the brake pads too.
#6
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Originally Posted by dj55b
really eh ... been a while since i looked at the front end ... the rear end is what i'm working on right now ... I'll be posting some update pictures soon enough
#7
The locking clips are little pieces of metal that hold the brake pads in place. If you look at the top and the bottom of the pad, there will be almost "L" shaped paper clip type things that hold the pads in there, and keeps them from resting on the rotor.
You don't need to touch these on removal, but if your changing pads you better make sure you get them in there.
You don't need to touch these on removal, but if your changing pads you better make sure you get them in there.
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#8
Rotary Freak
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That chapter in the Haynes manual confused me when I first did my brakes. The clips and stopper plates are for the old 79-80 RX-7s.
Undo the lower 14mm bolt on the lower side of the caliper, then the whole thing swings up. The "hinge" is just a long rod, pull outwards and the whole caliper comes off. Pads can be changed now. To take off the caliper, undo the hydraulic line.
The 14mm bolt on the back is only necessary if you're taking off the discs. Some people have ground down their wrenches to fit in there, but I've found it easier to undo the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle and twisting strut around for access.
For the rest of the suspension stuff, the Haynes manual is right, and make sure everything's torqued correctly, alignments are close, etc. I just did my steering bits, suspension and brakes last year.
Undo the lower 14mm bolt on the lower side of the caliper, then the whole thing swings up. The "hinge" is just a long rod, pull outwards and the whole caliper comes off. Pads can be changed now. To take off the caliper, undo the hydraulic line.
The 14mm bolt on the back is only necessary if you're taking off the discs. Some people have ground down their wrenches to fit in there, but I've found it easier to undo the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle and twisting strut around for access.
For the rest of the suspension stuff, the Haynes manual is right, and make sure everything's torqued correctly, alignments are close, etc. I just did my steering bits, suspension and brakes last year.
Last edited by j_tso; 01-13-07 at 05:40 PM.
#9
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Originally Posted by j_tso
The 14mm bold on the back is only necessary if you're taking off the discs. Some people have ground down their wrenches to fit in their, but I've found it easier to undo the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle and twisting strut around for access.
#10
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Originally Posted by j_tso
That chapter in the Haynes manual confused me when I first did my brakes. The clips and stopper plates are for the old 79-80 RX-7s.
Undo the lower 14mm bolt on the lower side of the caliper, then the whole thing swings up. The "hinge" is just a long rod, pull outwards and the whole caliper comes off. Pads can be changed now. To take off the caliper, undo the hydraulic line.
The 14mm bolt on the back is only necessary if you're taking off the discs. Some people have ground down their wrenches to fit in there, but I've found it easier to undo the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle and twisting strut around for access.
For the rest of the suspension stuff, the Haynes manual is right, and make sure everything's torqued correctly, alignments are close, etc. I just did my steering bits, suspension and brakes last year.
Undo the lower 14mm bolt on the lower side of the caliper, then the whole thing swings up. The "hinge" is just a long rod, pull outwards and the whole caliper comes off. Pads can be changed now. To take off the caliper, undo the hydraulic line.
The 14mm bolt on the back is only necessary if you're taking off the discs. Some people have ground down their wrenches to fit in there, but I've found it easier to undo the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle and twisting strut around for access.
For the rest of the suspension stuff, the Haynes manual is right, and make sure everything's torqued correctly, alignments are close, etc. I just did my steering bits, suspension and brakes last year.
Would it be any problem to remove the strut tube before removing the caliper since I am going to be replacing the struts anyway and have to remove it now or later? That would give me access to that lower bolt without any problem.
Thanks for the advice guys! Invaluable!
#11
Rotary Freak
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You could remove it all in one piece. Just be sure to disconnect the brake lines first, the middle part of it is clipped to the damper, so either disconnect that and then the end on the caliper, or from the other end that goes into the engine bay, there's a clip that holds it from the top. Of course, pump out the brake fluid first.
#12
Rotary Freak
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From Trochoid's signature:
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html
It's got the Mazda factory manuals, they've got better illustrations than the Haynes one.
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html
It's got the Mazda factory manuals, they've got better illustrations than the Haynes one.
#13
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Originally Posted by j_tso
From Trochoid's signature:
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html
It's got the Mazda factory manuals, they've got better illustrations than the Haynes one.
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html
It's got the Mazda factory manuals, they've got better illustrations than the Haynes one.
#14
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Originally Posted by Kouryou
Well, the clips and stopper plates will be right when I start working on my SA...LOL
Would it be any problem to remove the strut tube before removing the caliper since I am going to be replacing the struts anyway and have to remove it now or later? That would give me access to that lower bolt without any problem.
Thanks for the advice guys! Invaluable!
Would it be any problem to remove the strut tube before removing the caliper since I am going to be replacing the struts anyway and have to remove it now or later? That would give me access to that lower bolt without any problem.
Thanks for the advice guys! Invaluable!
Ya no worries man ... I'll probably have a thread started tonight or tomorrow anyway about some updates on my car, how that POR-15 stuff is working out and how things are looking.
#15
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Originally Posted by dj55b
Ya no worries man ... I'll probably have a thread started tonight or tomorrow anyway about some updates on my car, how that POR-15 stuff is working out and how things are looking.
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