Fromslowtogo

I was reading up on factory camber adjustment and there is some by turning the top hats.

There's apparently an arrow I can't find

But you can definitely see there is adjustment by looking straight down at it where do I turn for more negative camber my previous tires were very worn on the outside ed

ges.

sa7

iTrader: (13)

Looks like you're already getting max camber where they are now, because you can see they are already over towards the inside of the engine bay. I think you can turn them clockwise by 1 to get slightly more caster. I havent used the stock top plates for a few years now, Ive been using camber plates. There isn't a lot of adjustment with the stock parts, not enough to correct uneven tire wear I would think. If anything, you would be gettimg more inside tire wear right now with the position of your top plates. I'm guessing something else is going on to cause your odd tire wear.

Fromslowtogo

[QUOTE=sa7;12338761]Looks like you're already getting max camber where they are now, because you can see they are already over towards the inside of the engine bay. I think you can turn them clockwise by 1 to get slightly more caster. I havent used the stock top plates for a few years now, Ive been using camber plates. There isn't a lot of adjustment with the stock parts, not enough to correct uneven tire wear I would think. If anything, you would be gettimg more inside tire wear right now with the position of your top plates. I'm guessing something else is going on to cause your odd tire wear.[/QUOTE

Thanks man that's kind of what I was thinking too as it made sense by looking at it. I bought it with the front tires like that so they might have been screwed off something else as I think he just threw them on as rollers. I'll get it down off stands and check it's alignment with the measuring tape just bought new tires don't want them to have the same fate.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

I would have the alignment checked at a shop with a proper alignment machine. Then you will know exactly where you stand in all aspects of the alignment.

GSLSEforme

^^^^ This.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

After you get your alignment results back. Post them up.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Would be interesting to see where the car is at.

Fromslowtogo

will do guys! I got a local company that does a nice before and after print out for alignments

spoke to the previous owner, says it was setup for autocross then he ran it as a daily for a bit which destroyed the car, i'm not an autocross guy but i guess you can do some alignment adjustments for a quicker turn in.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You need to go clockwise one more turn to have the arrow point to the mid rear of the engine bay. I assuming this pic is from the drivers side facing to the front of the car. This is the case for both sides, so they will end up being mirrors of each other. That gives you max camber and caster on a stock car.

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

What t_g said is what I did. Gives you about 1 degree of negative camber which is decent for an aggressively driven street car. If you need more camber for the track you can look into coilovers or adjustible control arms, or both.

Fromslowtogo

I totally understand what you wrote and will try but seriously where is this arrow? can you see it in my picture and i am that blind?

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you're blind. Happens to the best of us.

GSLSEforme

Don't worry about the arrow...This is real simple,strut top is offset to give you various camber/caster adjustments. There's not much adjustment there,1/2-3/4 degree at most. Just loosen nuts on studs holding mount to body and pull strut down into wheel well til studs clear fender.
Rotate strut mount to have the offset face in toward engine and back to windshield- same for both sides. This gives you maximum negative camber and maximum positive caster that can be had from this adjustment. More caster can be dialed in by adjusting length of strut rods-when car is on alignment rack. Set toe-in to 1/16". Post back alignment specs when done.

Should look like this when done.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You are not blind, I've had this car now for 37 years, I can see the position of the top hat. But I could just make out the arrow in your pic.

Mike, that looks like an FC strut bar. Did you add spacers under it to clear things in the bay? I think I have the same or similar bar.

GSLSEforme

It’s an FB bar,Tim. It is able to be adjusted up and down.On my SE,there is very tight clearances between air filter box and strut bar and strut bar and hood. There was enough adjustment in the bar to accommodate both,but just. It bolts on over top of strut mount nuts which helps give clearance elsewhere.
I can leave that adjustment as is and still able to remove bar for maintenance in a couple minutes,same for reinstall and clearance adjustment remains unchanged.

Side benefit of bar is sunroof no longer rattles over bumps when open.

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

LOL, for some reason my Racing Beat triangulated bar is not providing the same benefit for me. Mine rattles when its cold regardless, been doing that since I installed the stiffer front sway bar.

GSLSEforme

^^^^ open or closed? What swaybar,kind of links?There's things you can do to the sunroof to minimize rattling.

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

It only does it when cold and closed. RB springs and sway bar, Tokico shocks.

GSLSEforme

Rattle in front or back?

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

I don't know...it's not enough of an issue to worry about it. probably back, where the latch is. Every one in a while I try to crank it down again, but it's tight.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried a new rear hatch seal?