There are cars that provide front camber adjustment by having slotted holes for the attachment bolts between the strut and the front wheel carrier. Some provide "crash bolts" that are thinner than normal or offset so that camber can be adjusted by creating intentional slop (adjustment range) in bolt holes that are not slotted. These are FACTORY OPTIONS on some cars. Mazda does not provide these options on the 2nd Gen "86 Sport that I have.

I suspect that providing extra "adjustment range" is a common alignment technique (read that "cheat") for people running "stock" 2nd Gens in competition. And why not? It is cheap, effective, virtually unnoticeable (if cleverly and neatly done), works with stock and aftermarket struts and springs and helps handling immensely.

All right now, who knows the right way to do this kind of mod? How much camber can you get before those fat 225-50-15 Kumhos on stock 5 bolt rims start to drag on the struts and springs?

I think a good discussion is in order. How about it?

 

eibach makes bolts for the 2nd gen. they are like $24 for the pair. mine came lose like 3 times causing play in the wheel like bad wheel bearings and causing the tire to rub on the spring... mine are now in the garbage.

and even with my 205's I have almost no room between the tire and shock with out the bolts. I could barly move it at all.

I have 225's waiting to go on and I don't know how they will fit even with the normal bolts. there is just no room with the 205's yet everyone uses them

I will however note that it made a huge difference and there was no way I was going to get rid of the camber after I took the bolts out. so I bought coil overs with camber plates instead

 

Slotting the strut attachment bolt holes will result in the tire moving closer to the strut and spring. Your solution will do away with the problem .

But there are other alternatives . Somehow moving the lower A-arm balljoint a bit more outboard will give some negative camber and not change the strut/tire relationship. How about introducing some slop (adjustment opportunity) in the bolt holes that attach the balljoint carrier to the lower A-arm?

Some offset bushings for the lower A-arm pivot points would also work without affecting the strut/tire relationship. Does anyone sell parts to accomplish these possibilites?

Any ideas?

 

Scott where did you get those bolts you were talking about...
Also do you know how to rotate the top of the strut to gain camber? If you do , how exactly do you do it and do you have a site or something you could refer me to that shows it?????
Thanks,
Craig

 

For the strut rotation trick see this:

http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast/camber.html

 

Scott

What torque did you use to tighten those Eibach bolts? I too would like to know where you got them .

Thanks

 

I've got some eccentric bolts (only upper bolt of strut/A- arm mount is replaced) from Engal's. I can get approx 1/2 to 1 degree negative camber. Works great and NEVER had them come loose. I get further neg camber from upper strut hole slop and the re-clocking of upper mount. I run 17x7.5 wheels (don't remember offset) with 215/45/17 front tires and no rubbing.I don't remember however were I got the bolts from, do a web search.....

 

I just went out to remount my strut towers(you know rotate them to get a little camber, and i don't have a square nub on mine so i couldn't do it. But while i was out there i disassembled my electronic suspension and put it all back on and it works now! there is a noticeable difference between sport and normal! So anyway, i ordered an alignment kit from eibach to get a little negative camber, but is there a way i can still do the strut tower rotating trick? I have an autocross this sunday and want a quick way to get a little camber before i go out. Thanks alot everyone for helping me....
Craig