B6T

iTrader: (2)

Hey
I read though the FAQs about no-starts and I didn't find anything that pertained to my situation, so I'm going to ask you guys.

Background information: I've got an '84 GSL-SE. There is no exhaust on it, just the manifold. I just had the injectors cleaned today and the car is back together. It has 100 octane leaded race fuel in it (don't ask, it's all we had around). It has spark from both coils, and it has 115psi compression on both rotors.

The problem: I crank the engine over and it just doesn't start. It kicks over a few times, and once started and ran for 3 seconds on what sounded to be one rotor, but thats it. I pulled the plugs out, dried them off, and then reinstalled them. While the plugs were out, I cranked the engine to clear the chambers of any fuel. I reinstall the plugs, and the same thing happens, it just kicks over a few times. I try to start the car again with the dried plugs and with the fuel supply pinched off, but nothing happens. It gets to the point where if I crank it for long enough, there is a puddle of fuel on the ground underneath the exhaust manifold.

I don't know what to do, it seems like the injectors are stuck wide open considering the amount of fuel that is POURING out of the engine.

Any suggestions?

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

ok when you go to shut it off rev it to 3k.

keep it there for 10 seconds. neighboors hate it. but

keep it there . shut off engine while holding the gas pedal down untill it starts to stop

itll ge tthe excess outta the injector ready to start.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

wait that was completely off topic roobertttt ,sonicrattttt wonder twin powers activate.

gsl-se85fb

I had a problem kind of like this with my 85 se. The fuel pressure regulator was leaking gas into the vac lines. Check for a leaking fpr by disconnecting the vacuum hose connected to the pressure regulator at the pressure regulator control valve then use the fuel pump shortcircuit terminal to run the pump and look for leaking fuel at the vacuum line good luck

GavinJuice

have you been able to verify the timing is spot on?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

What we don't know is- Was the car running ok before you sent the injectors out for cleaning?
Or were you having same symptons and assumed that the injectors were the problem?
Some of the most common sympton of this problem is a bad AFM. There should be no fuel pump activity until you start to crank the engine. What usually happens is that the flap door on the AFM is bent from backfiring and is staying partially open. This allows the signal to go to the ecu to deliver fuel before you crank. This will flood the engine. Turn the ignition key to the on posistion and go back to the fuel pump and see if it is on, if it is the afm is bad. You can also take off the feed line, plug it off, clean out the fuel in the engine. See if it will start, then reattach the line, not exactly the best way but it works.
Also when was the last time you replaced the ignition rotor? I have seen then ground thru the
dist and cause a cross fire not allowing the plugs to fire properly.

680RWHP12A

clamp the fuel feed line with a vice grip, stopping fuel flow.. start the car, and quickly remove the vicegrip beefore the motor runs out of gas.. this should de- flood the motor...
oh, and my 323 should be running again this week

B6T

iTrader: (2)

^ I did that. But then an hour after posting this thread, I realized that I may have pinched the return line, not the feed line. Crap.

Before the car sat for the winter, it ran perfect. It would fire up almost instantly. I have replaced the cap and rotor. I will look at the fuel pressure regulator tomorrow... that sounds like it may be the cause.

Just to be sure, the fuel feed line is the one thats closest to the front of the engine... right (this is where my unfamiliarity with RX7s shows)?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Yes the feed line is the one closest to the front of the engine. Also check what I stated about the fuel pump coming on.

B6T

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! I checked the AFM already and I am familiar with how that style of AFM works because my old 323GT turbo uses the same style. With the ignition on and the engine off (obviously), the fuel pump is off. When the door on the AFM is pushed open, the pump turns on, just like it's supposed to.

I didn't get a chance to get the engine started today because I was busy sandblasting and repainted some trim pieces, which look like they are going to turn out nicely. I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow!

Thanks for the help guys!