Engine swap Problem
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Engine swap Problem
Ok, please help me. I just swapped in my new 12A engine and everything hooked up ok and go to turn the key, the engine trys to starts but dosn't, hook up, so to speak. It turns over, it get's spark, it gets a fuel and air mixture into the rotor housing and it's gettin some exhaust fumes out of the exhaust. But it just won't, start. We've tried several different postions on the distrubitor but it just won't start. Any help if possible.
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Swapping a new engine in isn't gonna make his cat clog up all of a sudden.
If it is indeed getting spark and fuel then the only thing I can suggest is maybe the timing is way off. You might wanna try re-stabbing the dizzy... again.
If it is indeed getting spark and fuel then the only thing I can suggest is maybe the timing is way off. You might wanna try re-stabbing the dizzy... again.
#5
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Originally posted by REVHED
Swapping a new engine in isn't gonna make his cat clog up all of a sudden.
If it is indeed getting spark and fuel then the only thing I can suggest is maybe the timing is way off. You might wanna try re-stabbing the dizzy... again.
Swapping a new engine in isn't gonna make his cat clog up all of a sudden.
If it is indeed getting spark and fuel then the only thing I can suggest is maybe the timing is way off. You might wanna try re-stabbing the dizzy... again.
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I was by no means implying that you were.
It's just that I fail to see how a cat can suddenly clog up while the car's just sittin there. Did the engine definately loose compression? Maybe the clogged cat caused him to think that?
Anyway, could be just one of those freak occurences.
It's just that I fail to see how a cat can suddenly clog up while the car's just sittin there. Did the engine definately loose compression? Maybe the clogged cat caused him to think that?
Anyway, could be just one of those freak occurences.
#7
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well since a new rebuild engine has lower compression for a while, if the exhaust is clogged, it does not start. So if you couldn't get it started by trying different things, just unbolt the manifold, only 4 bolts, and see if she fires up.
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#8
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And, of course it would help if "DB" would get back in here and answer some of these questions...if you're trying to start it up after it's been lying around for a while or if it's a brand new rebuild, you're probably going to have to pull the plugs and clean them cuz you flooded it and then administer the old ATF-down-the-carb treatment to get the seals to seat and give you some useable compression...
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Ok, the cat's are fine, we replaced the cat's 6 weeks ago with a high flow cat, we've tried the timing, and the timing is spot on. Spark plugs, we've tried three new sets of plugs, the engine is a rebuilt ported 12A. We're starting to think it may just be flooded, smells strongly of fuel when we take the plugs out and turn the engine over. SOOOO, right now we have the plugs out and are cranking the engine over and over time the smell seems to be gettin better. Sorry bout the lenght of time i've been out, we've been ******* around with the engine ALL day, thanx for the help.
#10
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Originally posted by Dietbudda
Ok, the cat's are fine, we replaced the cat's 6 weeks ago with a high flow cat, we've tried the timing, and the timing is spot on. Spark plugs, we've tried three new sets of plugs, the engine is a rebuilt ported 12A. We're starting to think it may just be flooded, smells strongly of fuel when we take the plugs out and turn the engine over. SOOOO, right now we have the plugs out and are cranking the engine over and over time the smell seems to be gettin better. Sorry bout the lenght of time i've been out, we've been ******* around with the engine ALL day, thanx for the help.
Ok, the cat's are fine, we replaced the cat's 6 weeks ago with a high flow cat, we've tried the timing, and the timing is spot on. Spark plugs, we've tried three new sets of plugs, the engine is a rebuilt ported 12A. We're starting to think it may just be flooded, smells strongly of fuel when we take the plugs out and turn the engine over. SOOOO, right now we have the plugs out and are cranking the engine over and over time the smell seems to be gettin better. Sorry bout the lenght of time i've been out, we've been ******* around with the engine ALL day, thanx for the help.
Push start it (with another car) at 20 mph, and drop it in third.
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Since I nailed the first part of your problem on the money, it would behoove you to go back and re-read my first reply and do it...you're not getting a good enough seal with your barely pumping OMP to separate the chambers with a liquid barrier where your seals meet the metal...the ATF will do this for the first start-up...been there, done that...twice...
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Ok, well, we 'pull-started' it today and dropped the cluth at 30 MPH and it started right up. got it home and it stoped agian and wouldn't start up, i don't think we ran it long enough, i'll try th ATF trick tomorrow mornin. Thanx alot for all your help.
#14
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Mine started right up... Of course I had the engine FULL of penetrating oil (PB Blaster actually) and I cranked the engine for a half-minute with the ignition disabled and spark plugs out, to ensure the engine had oil pressure when it fired. Put it all back together, and it fired right up on the second try. (The first try, I forgot to reconnect the ignition wires )
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Oh, BTW, how EXACTLY do you do the ATF trick, had a friend do it once and he fucked it up somehow and havn't gotten a straight answert out of anyone about how to do it porperlly. Thanx agian all
#17
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It's not "the ATF trick" in unflooding the engine. At least, there's no trick to it.
New engines like to flood until they break in. When they flood, the gasoline washes away the oil film on the housings and makes the seals seal even worse if at all.
What you do is put a little tranny fluid down the carb throats and spin the engine a while with the spark plugs out until the white mist stops coming out, then put NEW spark plugs in (or at least clean the old ones VERY well and dry them off) and start the engine.
New engines like to flood until they break in. When they flood, the gasoline washes away the oil film on the housings and makes the seals seal even worse if at all.
What you do is put a little tranny fluid down the carb throats and spin the engine a while with the spark plugs out until the white mist stops coming out, then put NEW spark plugs in (or at least clean the old ones VERY well and dry them off) and start the engine.
#18
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Originally posted by Directfreak
When it's that flooded.
Push start it (with another car) at 20 mph, and drop it in third.
When it's that flooded.
Push start it (with another car) at 20 mph, and drop it in third.
Originally posted by Dietbudda
Ok, well, we 'pull-started' it today and dropped the cluth at 30 MPH and it started right up. got it home and it stoped agian and wouldn't start up, i don't think we ran it long enough, i'll try th ATF trick tomorrow mornin. Thanx alot for all your help.
Ok, well, we 'pull-started' it today and dropped the cluth at 30 MPH and it started right up. got it home and it stoped agian and wouldn't start up, i don't think we ran it long enough, i'll try th ATF trick tomorrow mornin. Thanx alot for all your help.
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