NCross

iTrader: (18)

What would the consequences be if you installed the eccentric thrust washer chamfered side up? As in, facing the pulley. Im aware there is a bevel on the end of the e shaft that is supposed to fit in the chamfer on the washer. It is the only way I can achieve end play within spec. I can think of a few possible out comes such as the shaft or the washer grinding themselves to conform to each other, Or they could be slightly off balance from each other and shutter around bit at higher RPM.

I'm baffled as to how the engine has zero end play reassembling everything using what was in the original engine with the washer chamfer sized down. The front housing and rotors is all thats different. I thought about taking one of my spacers to a grinding stone and shaving some off... Although the engine is completely assembled now.

Comments?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the only time i saw the bottom thrust washer installed upside down the thrust bearings were destroyed and the front stat gear seized to the e-shaft.

if you have 0 thrust play then you should disassemble and fix it or pay the consequences. if that is the only way to eliminate thrust play or get it within spec is by flipping it then you have something missing, the hub isn't moving into position when snugging down the front bolt or some severely worn thrust bearing components.

flipping the spacer is just wrong, it has to seat to do its job at holding itself perpendicular to the rotating assembly, without that it is wobbling off its cone wedged in seat which will eventually warp the spacer and damage the thrust bearings or bind them up or allow the assembly to loosen up if it was assembled/torqued improperly.

this is one area you don't want to say "good enuff".

NCross

iTrader: (18)

So i need a thicker spacer? I have a couple Y spacers. Will it make any difference over the V that is in it? A thicker thrust washer wont make a difference?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the spacer sets the end play and bearing wear as well. so if it's too loose then you need a shorter spacer or to inspect your thrust bearings for wear.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I made the mistake of building an engine with insufficient endplay once. Long story short, I misunderstood the measuring method in the FSM & thought you were supposed to use prying force between the flywheel and the end housing to measure it, instead of actual free play (as in, slides back and forth under finger pressure). So it ended up too tight.

Started fine after the rebuild, even passed smog... but the engine only lasted a few thousand miles before dying heat death due to too much internal friction. Very expensive rebuild, that next one - - two near-new rotor housings ended up compressing longitudinally & were too narrow to reuse, hard seals were wrecked, side housings needed machining/replacement. Several thousands of dollars spent to get things right, back when rotor housings could still be bought new. Unhappy wife. Much shame and depression.

Parts expand when they heat; the free play has to be enough to maintain clearance once everything comes up to heat. Because of the rotary's stacked structure, shaft play clearance is cumulative. all the parts in the engine stack contribute to the total clearance.

Your new front housing may be thinner front-to-back than your old one. Did you check it against the spec, before assembly? There's a minimum spec for their thickness in the FSM.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

I used a digital caliper and they both came out the same. On a side not I installed the washer chamfer side down and replaced the V spacer with a Y spacer and now I have free play. I dont have the dial now... but Id imagine its maybe "playing card" thickness in movement. Using a pry bar under the flywheel with the flywheel facing up on the engine stand. I get the little clunk, but its a tiny amount of movement. I also notice a dead spot when prying that I get no movement. Like a 5 inch section of the flywheel has no clunk.

I though it could be the flywheel nut being over torqued, but I reinstalled the nut and it feels the same.

When cleaning irons I use a flat razor to get the old hylomar/ coolant seal residue off, and a wire brush with next to no pressure on the housings and a dental scraper type tool to clean the groves being careful not to remove aluminum. So I shouldnt have removed any significant material.

BTW it only moves with a prybar. Not by hand. Or not noticeable by hand anyway.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

I asked a mechanic today about what the consequences of excessive endshaft play are, and he told me that if end play is too great the oil pressure will not be sufficiant.

He told me of a story of a car that had enough play in it that the flywheel would hit the bell housing. (I forgot what he said was wrong with it, but it was not a fresh build)

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Don't use a pry bar, get the shaft horizontal & use your fingers. should clunk both ways.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

I ordered a K spacer. Hopefully it works since there is play with a Y spacer, but not enough to move without a prybar in the upright position only.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

I fiddled a bit with the Y spacer I have and seem to have achieved proper end play. I'm awaiting my new dial indicator I ordered to check the actual number. What I did this time is I stacked the front bits into place with the engine horizontally. I pushed the flywheel all the way in by hand so it had zero slack as I slid all the pieces into place making sure the bearings didnt slip or get crushed. Now I get a nice clank when I push on the flywheel or pulley.

The last several times I assembled the front stack I did it with the engine facing up (flywheel on the bottom, pulley towards the ceiling).