?easy way to plug "O" in exhaust sleeves
#1
TEAM MAZDA
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?easy way to plug "O" in exhaust sleeves
I have heard before to plug the 2 small holes in the exhaust sleeves, with a bolt or something. Any one know a exact size that should be used? I was thinking a corse thread screw and after installed grind off whatever sticks out into the exhaust area?
Or is there a way to remove the sleeve, weld it and replace the sleeves? I have also heard once removed the sleeves cant be replaced?
Or is there a way to remove the sleeve, weld it and replace the sleeves? I have also heard once removed the sleeves cant be replaced?
#2
whipmebeatmewankelmeoff
on my 70's RX's I used to pull the sleeves and weld them then plug the hole in the bottom of the housing by removing the bolt and welding the hole in the end. But your most likely working on later housings and they can be removed and reinstalled the same way here's how I do it:
1) Measure down about where the roll pins that hold the sleeve in.
2) Drill through the sleeve until you just break into the roll pin hole
3) Use a small punch to drive the pin out
4) Remove the sleeve and clean all the deposits off inside and out
5) Weld the air holes and the drill holes shut
6) Grind the welds down for a smooth port
7) Reinstall sleeves and drive rollpins back in
BTW seeing as your in Tampa if you need help just let me know I'm just over the howierd frankenstien.
1) Measure down about where the roll pins that hold the sleeve in.
2) Drill through the sleeve until you just break into the roll pin hole
3) Use a small punch to drive the pin out
4) Remove the sleeve and clean all the deposits off inside and out
5) Weld the air holes and the drill holes shut
6) Grind the welds down for a smooth port
7) Reinstall sleeves and drive rollpins back in
BTW seeing as your in Tampa if you need help just let me know I'm just over the howierd frankenstien.
#5
Airflow is my life
The pins are on the side of the housing. Thats what holds the sleeve in. grant, it blocks the EGR port so you dont have exhaust flowing into intake manifold, or if your using a SA intake, you dont have to block the square EGR port in the center iron on later engines. HTH
FWIW, I used some of that epoxy that comes like a tootsie roll and stuffed it up from the bottom of the hole till it came flush. No sleeve removal required and has held up on the racecar for quite some time. YMMV.
FWIW, I used some of that epoxy that comes like a tootsie roll and stuffed it up from the bottom of the hole till it came flush. No sleeve removal required and has held up on the racecar for quite some time. YMMV.
#7
whipmebeatmewankelmeoff
well the theroy is when the exhaust passes through the sleeve and hits the hole(s) it creates unwanted turbulance, by elimating the hole(s) the exhaust gases meets less resistance thereby flowing better.
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#8
TEAM MAZDA
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Found the pins!
Rx7Carl:
"I used some of that epoxy that comes like a tootsie roll "
What name would I look for? That is a lot of heat to hold up to! I have some stainless plugs that will work great, but I would like to smooth out the exhaust side, like previously mentioned.
Rx7Carl:
"I used some of that epoxy that comes like a tootsie roll "
What name would I look for? That is a lot of heat to hold up to! I have some stainless plugs that will work great, but I would like to smooth out the exhaust side, like previously mentioned.
#9
Airflow is my life
I dont remember the name but you know what Im talking about in general right? BTW, it did burn off at the sleeve so its not perfectly smoth now, but is still plugged and leak free. My suggestion is to drive the rods thru the holes and grind the end flush with the sleeve.
#11
Old [Sch|F]ool
I wouldn't worry about the two holes in the sleeves. Exhaust flow at that point is so fast/directed that its flow is more comparable to water than air.
If you want to plug the air injection ports in the rotor housings, just get some 5/16" dowel rod, cut to roughly 3/4"-1" lengths, chew up in a vise (make it a bit knurled in other words so it's not a slip fit), coat with "muffler mender" exhaust system putty, then pop them in. They just have to be in far enough that they do not interfere with the side housings when you put the engine together - they don't need to be flush with the sleeve.
If you're seriously ****-retentive you could tap the holes (they are steel inserts in the aluminum housing) and thread in some plugs. I have not had a problem with the dowel rod coming loose, though.
Main advantage is you don't have to worry about a potential exhaust leak in the center iron, when you're using '81-85 rotor housings and a center iron with the air injection port below the intake ports. So you can run a '79-80 intake manifold without hackery, or you can forego using an ACV blockoff plate.
If you want to plug the air injection ports in the rotor housings, just get some 5/16" dowel rod, cut to roughly 3/4"-1" lengths, chew up in a vise (make it a bit knurled in other words so it's not a slip fit), coat with "muffler mender" exhaust system putty, then pop them in. They just have to be in far enough that they do not interfere with the side housings when you put the engine together - they don't need to be flush with the sleeve.
If you're seriously ****-retentive you could tap the holes (they are steel inserts in the aluminum housing) and thread in some plugs. I have not had a problem with the dowel rod coming loose, though.
Main advantage is you don't have to worry about a potential exhaust leak in the center iron, when you're using '81-85 rotor housings and a center iron with the air injection port below the intake ports. So you can run a '79-80 intake manifold without hackery, or you can forego using an ACV blockoff plate.
#13
TEAM MAZDA
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I got some stainless hex head corse thread plugs that will fit perfectly. I found them at Ace hardware for like a dollar each. Thanks for everyones input . . .
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