Ok, so I believe it was inittab who did this orriginally and explained it in not so great detail. I'm going to try to do a little better.


Ok, on a stock 2nd gen leading coil there are two terminals- one for L1, one for L2. Using this coil will keep you from having to tear apart your dizzy and get another ignitor to get the same results. This was the simplest mod I've ever done, and it took me a total of 20 minutes!! (5 of which was deciding where to put it!!)


1. Get your 2nd gen coil with ignitor.
2. Cut off the electrical connector for the stock wiring.
3. Take the 4 screws off the back.
4. You will see on the left side, a large ignitor - cut all the wires off of it as close as you can to the ignitor. (you won't need it, anyway) Now, un-screw the 3 screws that hold it in. Discard the 2nd gen ignitor.
5. On the right hand side, you will see a balast resistor. There will be a black wire going to and from it. When you cut the wires, previously, you would have noticed that 2 black wires were soldered together on the ignitor. Splice those two wires together. (connecting the - side of the coil to the bottom of the resistor)
6. Disconnect the positive side of the coil. - 7mm nut (you will have to take the plastic cover with L1, L2 on it, off)
7. You're almost done!! Screw the cover back on the ignitor. Mount the assy- closer to the spark plugs, the better. (shorter wires=less resistance)
8. Disconnect the stock wiring from the stock Leading Coil. Connect the wire which was previously connected to the - side of the stock coil to the black wire that you would have left sticking out the top of the 2nd gen assy. Do the same for the positive side.
9. connect leading wires to the 2nd gen coil, then to the leading plugs. Move your trailing wires to the leading position on the dizzy.
10. Start, drive, park, pull yourself out of the back of your seat.

Jump up and down and say "hell, yeah, that thing is fast!!!"


Pictures soon to come. (I have a digi cam now!!)

 

For the 1st gen, I'd say this is a really great upgrade. If I had to choose between this and DLIDFIS, I'm not sure which I'd use. Due to where the stock coils are mounted, and whether it's got AC or not, the 2nd gen coil takes up less underhood space, and can be mounted closer to the coils. However, it's also not as powerful, being a DIS coil and all.

Tough call. I like it!

If I were to upgrade an older rotary, I'd have to figure which would be the best setup to use, since there are pros and cons to both.

To clear up one thing. I've never had to cut any pickup wires on any of my dizzies thoughout all of my igniton experiements. Not a one, zero, zip, nada. I've done five so far. Six if you count the 20B dizzy which also has intact pickup connectors.

Please post some pictures soon.

 

to those doing this mod..make SURE you dont forget to wire up that ballast resistor..otherwise you'll be minus 1 ingitor.

 

yup, yup!!!

Here's the pics.
This one is the wiring from the stock ignition. Black wire coming from the balast resistor.


Here's where I mounted it.



I'll get pics of the internals soon. hopefully later tonite....

 

looks good..should i post a pic of my "final" working version? hehe.

p.s. your engine is dirty

 

TA DA....

 

Yeah, yeah... the engine is dirty. Haven't had time to clean it up again... I'll get to it eventually. (soon, I hope)


Here's the rest of the pics.


The back of it-




Inside- simple!!

 

pic that was already posted by inittab of the back of a stock fc coil showing the resistor:

 

mine..doesn't look like that...lol but it still works? err..lol yours works right??

 

he took out the igniter and the resistor is mounted with two screws, on the right hand side with wires coming out
he wired one of them to the + on the fc coil, and brough the old coils hot into the back and hooked it up ncie and hidden like to the resistor. then ground the coil using the same from the original coil adn youre good to go.

as far as i see

correct me if im wrong so i dont mess anyone up

 

i'll take a pic of mine tomorrow..but i have a LOT more wires...

 

ok i rewired mine..will find out if it works before i go to work tomorrow..lmao

 

Nice job Chris.

 

Maybe a cheesy wiring diagram made in MS Paint could help some people.

-Marques

 

I've said it before and I will say it again - that is not true.

 

how longs yours been runnin without it? will it harm anything by wiring the resistor in? just askin more questions dont mind me

 

i think that ignition so called direct fire conversion is a waste of time!!!! i have NEVER seen a racecar that has that setup, EVER!!!!!!!!
if you want to do a REAL ignition upgrade then put some type of capacitive discharge system, then you will feel a difference!!

 

680RWHP12A, were you refering to the single stock J-109 ignitor hooked to an FC leading coil, as mention in this thread? Or were you 'dissing' all direct fire ignition sytems in general?

Hey guys, nice pictures.

 

No, no. the wire from the resistor is inline with the NEGATIVE - side of the coil!!

 

The whole point of running the resistor in line is that the 2nd gen coil has less resistance than the 1st gen coil. with less resistance, more power will flow through the ignitor faster causing heat and eventual failure. Now, if you have some really good heat sink compound behind your stock ignitor, then it will probably work. I don't like to gamble with my car. The resistor is a fail-safe. I personally don't want mine overheating and failing while I'm doing 70 on the freeway!!




680rwhp12A - Ok, look at it this way. Our cars are not race cars. doing this mod will at least double the life of our dizzy cap and rotor. (thinking about using the trailing coil from a 2nd gen and doing the same thing to bypass the dizzy altogether)

Doing this mod WILL decrease the amount of resistance in your ignition wiring. Here's another thing to think about. Why do you think Mazda went to this method on the 2nd, 3rd gen? BECAUSE IT'S BETTER!!! Why not adapt it to the 1st? It cost me a total of 30 bucks. (less than a dizzy cap and rotor around here!!)

 

" i have NEVER seen a racecar that has that setup, EVER!!!!!!!!"

Is this mod legal in any racing classes? Probably not. That's why you wouldn't see a racecar with it.

Read Paul Yaw's writeup on using an MSD box, alot of the information is pertinant, especially when it comes to bypassing the distributor.... Believe me, the sparks are stronger this way. Don't take my word for it, ask the guys who've done it. Go ahead and ask 'em if their cars have an easier time starting after. Or even if their idle settles down a bit after.

And for the price, DLIDFIS and this are both great changes to an outdated ignition system.

Jon

 

After a couple of days driving it like this, I've notice a significant idle improvement and it DOES start easier. (it gets down below freezing up here.)

So far, no drawbacks.

 

2+ years.
Shouldn't harm anything with it in there, you just don't have to have it. Do make sure the back of the igniter is nice and clean with some fresh dielectric grease on it either way. Heat sink compound may insulate the back of the igniter from electrical signals.

 

Sounds like a good mod, great info.

 

All the other posts say that the resistor gets wired into the Positive side of the coil... Now what is going on here. I have the same coil you have but, the insides are all different, my yellow wires and the ones wired to the resistor stock. and my black wires just go to the ignitor. I wonder why there are some that are like mine and others like yours...