EASY 2nd gen direct fire install - 20 minutes
02-21-08, 08:00 PM
#252
Okay guys I'm gathering up my materials for this but I'm retarded and have a few questions. What are you guys doing about the negative connecter on the FB's coil? My negative also has a wire to it from the harness. Maybe I could just leave these connected and run a connecting wire to the FC negative side? Also, what are you guys doing with the Fusible link box? Anybody have anymore detailed pictures of their setup without using the FC's resistor and ignitor?
02-21-08, 09:49 PM
#253
Go back three or four pages in this post, it's all there. Here's the negative hook up:
The positive connection is almost as simple, go back a few pages.
Or just get some popcorn, sit back and watch the movie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3Va3xwWzVQ
The positive connection is almost as simple, go back a few pages.
Or just get some popcorn, sit back and watch the movie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3Va3xwWzVQ
02-22-08, 12:38 AM
#254
Yeah I've seen that but my coils also have another wire coming out of the ignitor harness that goes to the negative side. If you look in the picture you can see it. What do I do with this? Maybe I can leave all the negative connected and just run a connecting wire to the FC coil like you did with the positive?
02-22-08, 06:21 AM
#255
I'm not familiar with the 83 wiring, but since you only need one coil to power the trailing plugs it is probably not necessary to have anything connected to the old leading (rear) coil - I am only using it to tie down and connect the + lead to my jumper that runs to the positive lead on the 2G coil.
Notice that I plugged my + jumper wire into the white stock 2G harness so that it connects to the TAN wire leading into the coil pack, not the red one. As I recall this puts the 2G resistor into the circuit, which some folks say protects the leading igniter.
But after hearing Ken's claims you don't need the resistor, we installed a 2G coil pack on a friends car after removing the entire mounting bracket and resistor because his AC didn't leave enough room for the whole thing. We just hooked + to + and - to - and it's working fine, no igniter problems and it's been several months now.
For electrical idiots like me trying to figure this thing out ahead of time just gave me a headache, so finally one evening I just went out and wired it up + to + and - to -, took less than an hour and it worked fine on first startup. That was almost a year ago, fantastic upgrade.
Good luck!
Ray
Notice that I plugged my + jumper wire into the white stock 2G harness so that it connects to the TAN wire leading into the coil pack, not the red one. As I recall this puts the 2G resistor into the circuit, which some folks say protects the leading igniter.
But after hearing Ken's claims you don't need the resistor, we installed a 2G coil pack on a friends car after removing the entire mounting bracket and resistor because his AC didn't leave enough room for the whole thing. We just hooked + to + and - to - and it's working fine, no igniter problems and it's been several months now.
For electrical idiots like me trying to figure this thing out ahead of time just gave me a headache, so finally one evening I just went out and wired it up + to + and - to -, took less than an hour and it worked fine on first startup. That was almost a year ago, fantastic upgrade.
Good luck!
Ray
02-22-08, 10:29 PM
#256
This is on my SA, not my FB. Yeah I'm retarded when it comes to electrical wiring so I try and be completely confident in what I do before I do it so I don't screw something up LOL. I plan to just connect + to + and - to -. I'll just give it a shot running a jumper wire from - to -. Now I'll have to see what kind of mounting hardware I can find LOL
05-22-08, 02:31 PM
#258
i have done this conversion and am currently running a weber 45DCOE do i need to change the timing in any way?
i have a gun and want to check it as the idle has been rough for a while (no loss of power)
i have a gun but what should my timing be?
0TDC leading
15ATDC training ?
thanks
Mark
i have a gun and want to check it as the idle has been rough for a while (no loss of power)
i have a gun but what should my timing be?
0TDC leading
15ATDC training ?
thanks
Mark
08-19-08, 10:23 AM
#259
had to bring this back up :P, i just did this, and everything went smooth i spent a bit of time before i got the coils figuring out the wiring and stuff so when i got them it only took like 15 minutes and that was 10 figuring out how to mount the damn thing....you can feel a bit of a harder pull specially when secondaries kick in, the car seems to be louder! even my brother who doesn't ride often told me it sounded louder.....the only downside i have is that i was hoping that it would get rid of my cold start problems, i started it this morning it's about 70 degrees outside and it took a bit to crank, and then after it did it stalled, so it took a couple of cranks to get it going, but that's the only downside i have...i think it even looks cooler lol.
08-19-08, 12:30 PM
#260
It's supposed to be forever easier to start once you go direct fire. I admit I've never actually installed 2GCDFIS on anything so I have no real world experience to offer - just from my experiments I know the system works and will spark two spark plugs at the same time... on the bench. lol
08-19-08, 06:40 PM
#261
yeah, well that's my only problem with it, the fact that the cold start didn't improve but everything else did, so i still call it a win lol. ....anyways, i ran into a problem with it, i was trying to clean the wiring a bit and what not, and i accidentally left the trailing coil (fb) unplugged, so big sparks. anyways my car would only run if i kept my key turn, or if i give it gas (toasted ignitor probably). I checked both FB coils and they work great.
what i did (quick fix) was kept my 12v (to FC) plugged into leading (fb) coil like instructions called, but the FC (-) terminal is now plugged into the trailing FB (-). I don't think this makes any difference, my cars starts up just like it did, and it idles great, but when i try to rewire it the way the instructions call (that's using the leading FB coil +/- the car won't start), checked both coils by rewiring both FB coils and flip-flopping them, both work, so i'm pretty sure it's one of the FB ignitors. i'm no electricist, but i'm thinking that as long as i'm getting +/- charge to the FC leading coil they will spark off first no matter what, even if i have to hook the trailing to the FB's leading coil...that's what worries me...hope this makes sense
will it be ok to leave this as is for now? i'm planning on getting an ignitor soon, cuz you never know when you'll need to go back to stock ignition but i was wondering if the re-wiring was safe.
what i did (quick fix) was kept my 12v (to FC) plugged into leading (fb) coil like instructions called, but the FC (-) terminal is now plugged into the trailing FB (-). I don't think this makes any difference, my cars starts up just like it did, and it idles great, but when i try to rewire it the way the instructions call (that's using the leading FB coil +/- the car won't start), checked both coils by rewiring both FB coils and flip-flopping them, both work, so i'm pretty sure it's one of the FB ignitors. i'm no electricist, but i'm thinking that as long as i'm getting +/- charge to the FC leading coil they will spark off first no matter what, even if i have to hook the trailing to the FB's leading coil...that's what worries me...hope this makes sense
will it be ok to leave this as is for now? i'm planning on getting an ignitor soon, cuz you never know when you'll need to go back to stock ignition but i was wondering if the re-wiring was safe.
10-30-08, 09:26 AM
#262
Rotary Freak
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I'm going to bump this again.
I did this setup and it worked great for a while. One day I just lost all leading spark. I hooked up the stock setup and it works fine. I tested the FC coil and the resister is getting nothing trough it. I put a meter set on ohms on each side of the resister and it shows as not working. Could the resister have died? If so what would have caused it? Is it possible to get a new resister? Could there be another problem with the coil? How do I test the rest of the coil?
Sorry for all the questions.
I did this setup and it worked great for a while. One day I just lost all leading spark. I hooked up the stock setup and it works fine. I tested the FC coil and the resister is getting nothing trough it. I put a meter set on ohms on each side of the resister and it shows as not working. Could the resister have died? If so what would have caused it? Is it possible to get a new resister? Could there be another problem with the coil? How do I test the rest of the coil?
Sorry for all the questions.
10-30-08, 04:01 PM
#266
I know at least two guys who have eliminated the resistor with no adverse effects (Ken and Greg; I helped Greg install his about a year ago, on Ken's advice).
It's a good option if you want to lose the base plate and bolt the coil directly to the engine bay. This saves space if you have a bunch of AC, PS crap (Greg) or want things to look super cool (Ken).
It's a good option if you want to lose the base plate and bolt the coil directly to the engine bay. This saves space if you have a bunch of AC, PS crap (Greg) or want things to look super cool (Ken).
11-03-08, 11:15 AM
#268
Rotary Freak
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Well I got it all together and it worked great for 1 day. I started it the next day and drove about 1 mile and the leading ignitor burned out. I'm glad I had an extra or I would be screwed.
11-03-08, 12:50 PM
#270
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I'm back to the stock setup now. I think I'm going to just leave it that way untill I can do the summit box and MSD coils. I should be able to do that in a few months.
11-07-08, 04:36 AM
#272
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here is a pic of mines
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../2gdfis002.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../2gdfis001.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../2gdfis003.jpg
the wires I used came from under my dash while I was cleaning her and throwing away some of the trash the previous owner left. Instead of throwing them away I decided to use them. If there are specific wire types that need to be use please let me know and Ill replace the ones I put in asap.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../2gdfis002.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../2gdfis001.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i.../2gdfis003.jpg
the wires I used came from under my dash while I was cleaning her and throwing away some of the trash the previous owner left. Instead of throwing them away I decided to use them. If there are specific wire types that need to be use please let me know and Ill replace the ones I put in asap.
Last edited by rotary84; 11-07-08 at 04:58 AM.
02-01-10, 04:41 PM
#274
Almost not rotarded
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anybody in missouri done this mod that could help me out? i could probably do it all myself i just want someone to watch and make sure i do it right and don't screw anything up.
02-02-10, 08:46 AM
#275
Speed only when its LEGAL
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screw this **** now i am left with no car because of this mod am i the only one??i used fresh heatsink grease on igniter also used the resistor now i got no car so who is gonna send me an ignitor