1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

DIY: Minitub/4 Link

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Old 04-25-09, 06:41 PM
  #276  
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the tubs turned out sweet. carpet should be even sweeter! good luck not getting any tickets
Old 04-25-09, 07:12 PM
  #277  
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Tubs are welded in and completely sealed.....

tickets for what? loud subwoofer?
Old 04-25-09, 09:26 PM
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wwwooooottttt woooooottt this dude is going to throw a sub. in there...thats going to be hot...
Old 04-26-09, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
Tubs are welded in and completely sealed.....

tickets for what? loud subwoofer?
hahah, like they could hear the boom boom over the brap brap.
Old 04-26-09, 01:18 AM
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lol, don't drive it around California, the cops would find any way that they could ticket you.
Old 04-26-09, 01:52 AM
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Nice work on the tubs, looks very clean.
Old 04-26-09, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
Tubs are welded in and completely sealed.....

tickets for what? loud subwoofer?

Viking, What Ratio did you installed in the rear?
Old 04-26-09, 08:21 AM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by crpdragracing
Viking, What Ratio did you installed in the rear?
4.56 gear
Old 04-26-09, 01:32 PM
  #284  
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Sorta stuck now, waiting for the seam sealer to cure before I coat the inside of the wheel wells with bedliner.

So, I got board and boxed up the bottom front section. The part where I cut out the driveshaft hole, that follows the contour of the driveshaft tunnel, in case someone was gonna give me grief for not cutting a uniform half moon shape .

I didn't have any big peices of cardboard to mock up the center section so I had to cut up a old drain pain. Anyhow, this should give you a idea of how I'm going to do it.

Unless someone can tell me why this won't work, I think this is how I'm going to do it.











Old 04-26-09, 01:42 PM
  #285  
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Nice work, looking great!!
Old 04-26-09, 08:22 PM
  #286  
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Looking good. Do you plan on welding the rear panel in place? (your unraveled duct work) I would consider building a frame around it to mount that panel on so you could keep it removable with some dzus fasteners. I'm sure it will be nice to keep that access in there.

Oh, and hey.. you know your half-moon cut could use some work.. <grin>
Old 04-26-09, 11:51 PM
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That rear plate looks like it will work great. Might I suggest some weld through primer sprayed in the harder to reach areas? Does wonders in stopping rust in case you miss a spot in a crack anywhere.

Bed liner is a good plan, I'd do as many thin coats you can, less likely for the nicks to penetrate that way.

Originally Posted by NewbernD
Looking good. Do you plan on welding the rear panel in place? (your unraveled duct work) I would consider building a frame around it to mount that panel on so you could keep it removable with some dzus fasteners. I'm sure it will be nice to keep that access in there.
I wouldn't. A crease like that on the underside would be a heaven for rust. A little moisture gets in between the frame and the panel and it's over, especially once they scuff the paint off each other. If he could weld acetylene or tig that application would work well welding aluminum or stainless with a rubber seal though, but not with steel.
Old 04-27-09, 01:21 AM
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I scanned the thread again to see if you mentioned what kind of wheels those were, didn't see it. Are they Bogarts? They look similar to the bolted RT model they offer but not quite the same.
Old 04-27-09, 06:51 AM
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No, they are Holeshot Wheels.

I'd love to be able to make a removeable panel but I think it will be impossible to do without making it rattle/vibrate.

I should have the floor in next weekend.

I ended up using seam sealer to bond the tubs to the quarter panels.
Old 04-27-09, 09:50 AM
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what if it was resting against rubber or something?
Old 04-27-09, 10:00 AM
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I guess that could possibly work. But everything will be easily accessible from underneith the car. So, I don't see any reason to do that other than being too lazy to jack the car up
Old 04-27-09, 10:07 AM
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great, as long as it is easy to access. in case you needed to change a tire or something
Old 04-27-09, 10:31 AM
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You should be able to get away with not welding them in with Zeus Fasteners. Another thing to help reduce vibration is placing home window weather stripping all around the panel or where they make contact with other pieces and that should absord all the vibration.
Old 04-27-09, 10:53 AM
  #294  
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I'll have seam sealer between all peices before they are tacked into place.
Old 04-27-09, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dj55b
You should be able to get away with not welding them in with Zeus Fasteners. Another thing to help reduce vibration is placing home window weather stripping all around the panel or where they make contact with other pieces and that should absord all the vibration.
Zeus fasteners are good, but the Apollo ones are alot better.
Old 04-29-09, 12:25 AM
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have a picture of the Apollo? never heard of them ...

Viking, I was saying about using them for making a removeable rear floor pan without ratling
Old 04-29-09, 07:28 AM
  #297  
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The only access panel I will have will be for the fuel cell in back.
Old 04-29-09, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dj55b
have a picture of the Apollo? never heard of them ...

Viking, I was saying about using them for making a removeable rear floor pan without ratling
Sorry man, that was a joke, Apollo is a Greek god like Zeus

They're called Dzus fasteners.
Old 05-02-09, 03:30 PM
  #299  
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Got the front half done and seam sealed. Gonna hold off until I get tuned to finish off the rear. Still not 100 % sure about what I'm going to do back there since I need a sealed door to access the fuel cell.

Anyhow, I guess this will do......... still not 100% sure that I like how it turned out. I left the front right and left sides un paneled because I wanted the crossmember accessible for when I get a roll bar, the roll bar will tie right into that. That won't be for awhile though....







Old 05-02-09, 07:09 PM
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Damn dude now where are you going to fit the 3 15's you'll be putting in?


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