the tubs turned out sweet. carpet should be even sweeter! good luck not getting any tickets

 

Tubs are welded in and completely sealed.....

tickets for what? loud subwoofer?

 

wwwooooottttt woooooottt this dude is going to throw a sub. in there...thats going to be hot...

 

hahah, like they could hear the boom boom over the brap brap.

 

lol, don't drive it around California, the cops would find any way that they could ticket you.

 

Nice work on the tubs, looks very clean.

 

Viking, What Ratio did you installed in the rear?

 

4.56 gear

 

Sorta stuck now, waiting for the seam sealer to cure before I coat the inside of the wheel wells with bedliner.

So, I got board and boxed up the bottom front section. The part where I cut out the driveshaft hole, that follows the contour of the driveshaft tunnel, in case someone was gonna give me grief for not cutting a uniform half moon shape .

I didn't have any big peices of cardboard to mock up the center section so I had to cut up a old drain pain. Anyhow, this should give you a idea of how I'm going to do it.

Unless someone can tell me why this won't work, I think this is how I'm going to do it.

 

Nice work, looking great!!

 

Looking good. Do you plan on welding the rear panel in place? (your unraveled duct work) I would consider building a frame around it to mount that panel on so you could keep it removable with some dzus fasteners. I'm sure it will be nice to keep that access in there.

Oh, and hey.. you know your half-moon cut could use some work.. <grin>

 

That rear plate looks like it will work great. Might I suggest some weld through primer sprayed in the harder to reach areas? Does wonders in stopping rust in case you miss a spot in a crack anywhere.

Bed liner is a good plan, I'd do as many thin coats you can, less likely for the nicks to penetrate that way.

I wouldn't. A crease like that on the underside would be a heaven for rust. A little moisture gets in between the frame and the panel and it's over, especially once they scuff the paint off each other. If he could weld acetylene or tig that application would work well welding aluminum or stainless with a rubber seal though, but not with steel.

 

I scanned the thread again to see if you mentioned what kind of wheels those were, didn't see it. Are they Bogarts? They look similar to the bolted RT model they offer but not quite the same.

 

No, they are Holeshot Wheels.

I'd love to be able to make a removeable panel but I think it will be impossible to do without making it rattle/vibrate.

I should have the floor in next weekend.

I ended up using seam sealer to bond the tubs to the quarter panels.

 

what if it was resting against rubber or something?

 

I guess that could possibly work. But everything will be easily accessible from underneith the car. So, I don't see any reason to do that other than being too lazy to jack the car up

 

great, as long as it is easy to access. in case you needed to change a tire or something

 

You should be able to get away with not welding them in with Zeus Fasteners. Another thing to help reduce vibration is placing home window weather stripping all around the panel or where they make contact with other pieces and that should absord all the vibration.

 

I'll have seam sealer between all peices before they are tacked into place.

 

Zeus fasteners are good, but the Apollo ones are alot better.

 

have a picture of the Apollo? never heard of them ...

Viking, I was saying about using them for making a removeable rear floor pan without ratling

 

The only access panel I will have will be for the fuel cell in back.

 

Sorry man, that was a joke, Apollo is a Greek god like Zeus

They're called Dzus fasteners.

 

Got the front half done and seam sealed. Gonna hold off until I get tuned to finish off the rear. Still not 100 % sure about what I'm going to do back there since I need a sealed door to access the fuel cell.

Anyhow, I guess this will do......... still not 100% sure that I like how it turned out. I left the front right and left sides un paneled because I wanted the crossmember accessible for when I get a roll bar, the roll bar will tie right into that. That won't be for awhile though....

 

Damn dude now where are you going to fit the 3 15's you'll be putting in?