DIY: Minitub/4 Link
04-10-09, 10:01 PM
#226
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damnit! got the new driveshaft.........
tried installing it tonight and I can't even get it in position without it getting wedged between the tunnel and the diff.....
looks like I need to do a little cutting tommorow morning....
tried installing it tonight and I can't even get it in position without it getting wedged between the tunnel and the diff.....
looks like I need to do a little cutting tommorow morning....
04-11-09, 11:01 AM
#227
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Got the driveshaft installed this morning. I had to unbolt the shocks and drop the rearend down a few inches (no biggie).
Filled up the tranny and took it for it's first spin around the block. Neighbors were geaking out!
Filled up the tranny and took it for it's first spin around the block. Neighbors were geaking out!
04-13-09, 10:23 AM
#238
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Thanks!
If you guys are seriously considering doing this, there are quite a few things I would do different if I had to do it over again.
If you guys are seriously considering doing this, there are quite a few things I would do different if I had to do it over again.
04-17-09, 07:12 PM
#242
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I'm going to start on the tubs this weekend. Atleast get the carboard models finished and fitting nice. I went and bought a nice set of Electric Sheetmetal Shears. I plan on buying a 4x8 sheet of 20 gauge. Hopefully that will be enough for two 31 inch tubs. No pittsburg seam, just going to stitch weld it from the inside and finish it off with seam sealer.
This will entirely be a DIY job.
This will entirely be a DIY job.
04-19-09, 10:12 AM
#243
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22 gauge is what you should be looking for. :P
And if you get annoyed with the shears making an ugly lip on the edge of your steel, pick up a 'nibbler', preferably an air powered one (if you have a compressor). The nibbler is probably the best tool for cutting out metal with a hand tool, perfect cuts every time.
I would suggest finding something with a curve to form them, pushing the metal up against the side of a street light or even a tree works wonders in getting a more uniform curve. Or if you can get your hands on a metal brake you can make a sexy octagonal shape. Though if you don't do as much body work as me you can get by with wood set up and clamps, which i can explain how to make if you're interested.
And for seam sealer I would use a fibreglass body filler. Cake it on nice and gooey, sand it once it keeps it's shape and you get a white dust. Sand it smooth to the edge but do so quickly, if you let it fully harden it gets had as rock making sanding take forever.
Make sure you have lips on the steel, welding on a layer is more fool proof than welding two loose ends together!
And if you get annoyed with the shears making an ugly lip on the edge of your steel, pick up a 'nibbler', preferably an air powered one (if you have a compressor). The nibbler is probably the best tool for cutting out metal with a hand tool, perfect cuts every time.
I would suggest finding something with a curve to form them, pushing the metal up against the side of a street light or even a tree works wonders in getting a more uniform curve. Or if you can get your hands on a metal brake you can make a sexy octagonal shape. Though if you don't do as much body work as me you can get by with wood set up and clamps, which i can explain how to make if you're interested.
And for seam sealer I would use a fibreglass body filler. Cake it on nice and gooey, sand it once it keeps it's shape and you get a white dust. Sand it smooth to the edge but do so quickly, if you let it fully harden it gets had as rock making sanding take forever.
Make sure you have lips on the steel, welding on a layer is more fool proof than welding two loose ends together!
04-19-09, 02:06 PM
#244
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Got both tub models done today and they're fitting nice and snug to the quarter panel. It was pretty tricky getting them fitted since the quarter obviously isn't straight.
I'll buy the sheet metal next weekend and get them traced out, cut and welded in.
I've been instructed by the local raceshop to use silicone between the tub and quarter panel..
I'll buy the sheet metal next weekend and get them traced out, cut and welded in.
I've been instructed by the local raceshop to use silicone between the tub and quarter panel..
04-19-09, 06:42 PM
#247
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I have only ever used it on non road use smash up race cars, and only on non body areas (like the fuel cell shielding, used fibre filler on the floors)Here are the facts:
Silicone:
-Flexes, providing no additional strength to the welds,
-Allows metal the flex more readily, creating stressed areas
-Peels off of the stressed areas, allowing for moisture to get in, as well as providing nice holes.
-Looks like crap.
-Takes about 1 min to apply
Fibreglass Filler:
-Hardens, adding strength
-Prevents flexing
-Can't peel, wont let moisture in.
-Finishes smooth, flush, paintable
-Can take an hour or two in prep and application.
Remember; race shop, not body shop.
04-19-09, 08:58 PM
#248
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Silicone is great if you don't care and don't need it to last. I have only ever used it on non road use smash up race cars, and only on non body areas (like the fuel cell shielding, used fibre filler on the floors)
Here are the facts:
Silicone:
-Flexes, providing no additional strength to the welds,
-Allows metal the flex more readily, creating stressed areas
-Peels off of the stressed areas, allowing for moisture to get in, as well as providing nice holes.
-Looks like crap.
-Takes about 1 min to apply
Fibreglass Filler:
-Hardens, adding strength
-Prevents flexing
-Can't peel, wont let moisture in.
-Finishes smooth, flush, paintable
-Can take an hour or two in prep and application.
Remember; race shop, not body shop.
I have only ever used it on non road use smash up race cars, and only on non body areas (like the fuel cell shielding, used fibre filler on the floors)Here are the facts:
Silicone:
-Flexes, providing no additional strength to the welds,
-Allows metal the flex more readily, creating stressed areas
-Peels off of the stressed areas, allowing for moisture to get in, as well as providing nice holes.
-Looks like crap.
-Takes about 1 min to apply
Fibreglass Filler:
-Hardens, adding strength
-Prevents flexing
-Can't peel, wont let moisture in.
-Finishes smooth, flush, paintable
-Can take an hour or two in prep and application.
Remember; race shop, not body shop.
04-20-09, 02:15 AM
#249
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Not to be argumentative, but are wheel wells and sheet steel in any way part of a race shop expertise?
Making these wells classifys as 'bodywork', I wouldn't take advice from a bodyshop about my shocks, that's silly, but getting bodywork advice from someplace that doesn't even sell the tools to do the job.
When I say 'bodyshop' I'm not talking about dent fixer guys who think cavalries are cool, I'm talking about guys who have been put frames up on rotisseries for the past 20 years and turn rust buckets into hot rods.
I'm also not just regurgitating and pulling facts out of my *** either. I have used both methods and I have to say it; Though these race shop guys are probably cool dudes who know their stuff, in this case they are wrong as to the best/correct course of action.
But this is really all so I get a possibility of using the all mighty 'I told you so' if it goes less than stellar.
Making these wells classifys as 'bodywork', I wouldn't take advice from a bodyshop about my shocks, that's silly, but getting bodywork advice from someplace that doesn't even sell the tools to do the job.
When I say 'bodyshop' I'm not talking about dent fixer guys who think cavalries are cool, I'm talking about guys who have been put frames up on rotisseries for the past 20 years and turn rust buckets into hot rods.
I'm also not just regurgitating and pulling facts out of my *** either. I have used both methods and I have to say it; Though these race shop guys are probably cool dudes who know their stuff, in this case they are wrong as to the best/correct course of action.
But this is really all so I get a possibility of using the all mighty 'I told you so' if it goes less than stellar.