DIY: Minitub/4 Link
nice work!!
12-27-08, 08:39 PM
#28
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Not only did the tires hit the stock tank, the rear coilovers would also hit the stock tank. So, I sold it and will be using a cell. I hope to find one or find a adapter so that I can use my stock fill up location. I hate the idea of opening the hatch to fill a tank.
12-28-08, 03:49 PM
#33
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Got the rearend packed up and will mail out to moser engineering tommorow to be shortened. I also got the spare tire well cut out and more trimming done. This car has some nasty little brackets/flanges along the frame rails that are a pain to cut out. Everything that isn't needed is getting cut out, gotta keep the weight off since a nice stereo will be going in.
12-28-08, 04:54 PM
#36
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Yes, I have everything needed... 31 spline moser race axles w/star flanges, QA1 coilover kit, QA1 3/4 inch heim joints, control arm ends, moser spool, FMS 4.5X gear, chris aston battle cruiser kit and bunch of misc. The only thing I need is brakes and I'll be ordering those within the next few weeks.
12-28-08, 05:44 PM
#37
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I was sweating in the HOUSE yesterday. 68 for a high was great, to bad it was raining hardcore over here in Columbia.
Originally Posted by Eric
This car will see the street before it will see the track. But yes, it will see the street 99% of the time.
Oh no, it's all over now. I expect a ride once it's all wrapped up and done. Thank god for Illinois laws.
12-29-08, 09:16 PM
#40
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NICE!!! My rear is starting to look about the same bro. If you dont mind me asking, why did you cut out all of the sheetmetal and just leave the rails?
Mines looks like this right now.....
Gotta tack in the new four link brackets and cut the bars to length
Mines looks like this right now.....
Gotta tack in the new four link brackets and cut the bars to length
12-29-08, 10:04 PM
#41
Work looks very professional. Personally, I would add a couple more inches to the wheel well height to account for suspension travel and I will assume that your drag slicks will grow in height, when you run them at low psi during track runs. Also, if most of your driving will be on the street, more travel is a plus. You can always stiffen the shocks, and lower the rear at the track, (coilovers). Good luck with the project. I want to see pics when the front end comes off the ground at the track. 
12-30-08, 10:25 AM
#42
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I cut out the front area because that's where my crossmember/brackets needs to be mounted and also where my 4 link control arms will run. The spare tire location needed to be cut out because it's in the way of my coilovers. I could have just cut the round circle out, but I decided to cut along the frame rail seams so that I would have more room to crawl around back there while working on it
I'm a big dude and need all the room I can get
12-30-08, 10:41 AM
#43
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Work looks very professional. Personally, I would add a couple more inches to the wheel well height to account for suspension travel and I will assume that your drag slicks will grow in height, when you run them at low psi during track runs. Also, if most of your driving will be on the street, more travel is a plus. You can always stiffen the shocks, and lower the rear at the track, (coilovers). Good luck with the project. I want to see pics when the front end comes off the ground at the track.
I sent out my rearend to MOSER yesterday so lets hope they get the length correct
12-31-08, 06:42 PM
#45
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viking wtf is with the tennis ball in the first pics???? im considering doing this to my GS since its pretty gutted and has some rust i dont want to fix in the rear wheel wells.
01-01-09, 02:37 PM
#47
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Looks very cool! Does anybody have a rough price for this kind of job done professionally? For those of us that don't have the time or skill to perform this kind of work at home?
01-01-09, 06:28 PM
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Local shop around me quoted about 5K+ for the job thats without axles, wheels, center section, brakes. So i just did it myself and now i have about 3500 just in the rear end setup alone.