coating/re-doing underbody??
#1
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coating/re-doing underbody??
Well i was searching through the forums and found that 1st gens are known for rusting through the support bracket and through the bins. I checked out my car and sadly to say i have it too. Is there anything to worry about? is it ok to drive? im going to rip up the bins tommaorw and make sure its just rusting though the bins and no where else. The rest of the underbody is decent on my car. What can i do or spray on the underbody to keep rust away after i fix the bins. I wanna spray the whole underbody
#2
emissions r teh sux
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im not sure exactly what it was but my dad and i used some stuff on his old jeep. it was this black spray **** for like a windex bottle, and it prevents rust and also soundproofs. i will find out what it was later and let you know. it was pretty cheap too. never had anymore problems with rust on that one.
#5
Old Fart Young at Heart
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If you do your prep work properly, the Duplicolor truck bed liner works pretty well. Otherwise there is a rubberized undercoating in a spray can. There is no point in adding any coating unless the rust is removed and converted, then sealed with something like Por-15, a self-ecthing primer or an epoxy coat.
Sealing over a poorly prepped surface will simply trap moisture and allow the rust to work faster.
Sealing over a poorly prepped surface will simply trap moisture and allow the rust to work faster.
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#8
Passing life by
POR-15 is great and it falls under the same lines that each and every other person here has suggested and they are completely incorrect for this application.
Each of the items suggested are cover ups and preventions NOT neutralizers. These Items should ONLY be applied on a prepped surface with no current rust or the rust will be trapped in forever destroying the rest of your car.
I am a pessimist about this I feel the only way is to grind the metal all down and cutout the bad spots and reweld new metal in. You have to get to good metal or the rust will just set back in. Other body men I know swear by rust neutralizers found at any parts stores. I do not feel this does a good enough job to ensure rust not coming back. If you miss any spot between metals it can come back. This is why I do not prefer rust treatments for metal that has been rusted through or is plied.
Each of the items suggested are cover ups and preventions NOT neutralizers. These Items should ONLY be applied on a prepped surface with no current rust or the rust will be trapped in forever destroying the rest of your car.
I am a pessimist about this I feel the only way is to grind the metal all down and cutout the bad spots and reweld new metal in. You have to get to good metal or the rust will just set back in. Other body men I know swear by rust neutralizers found at any parts stores. I do not feel this does a good enough job to ensure rust not coming back. If you miss any spot between metals it can come back. This is why I do not prefer rust treatments for metal that has been rusted through or is plied.
Last edited by iceblue; 01-03-06 at 11:26 PM.
#9
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Maybe you should read more carefully, not all of the posts are wrong. I stated a properly prepared surface, that would include, sandblasting, grinding, or replacement, which ever is most appropriate. The rust converters do work well, but they do not prevent rust. If left exposed, many of them will allow the rust to return quickly. They should only be used when the last tiny bits of rust cannot be removed by mechanical means, and the part in question is structurally whole and intact.
If the metal is rusted through, replacement is the only option to maintain the structural integrity. Mazda's better idea of using 3 plys on the rear wheel wells was an absolute failure in terms of longevity, but concidering economics and planned obsolesence, they held up long enough.
If the metal is rusted through, replacement is the only option to maintain the structural integrity. Mazda's better idea of using 3 plys on the rear wheel wells was an absolute failure in terms of longevity, but concidering economics and planned obsolesence, they held up long enough.
#10
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by iceblue
POR-15 is great and it falls under the same lines that each and every other person here has suggested and they are completely incorrect for this application.
Each of the items suggested are cover ups and preventions NOT neutralizers. These Items should ONLY be applied on a prepped surface with no current rust or the rust will be trapped in forever destroying the rest of your car.
Each of the items suggested are cover ups and preventions NOT neutralizers. These Items should ONLY be applied on a prepped surface with no current rust or the rust will be trapped in forever destroying the rest of your car.
The way POR-15 works is very, very simple. It just forms an impenetrable coating that denies metal the chance to contact moisture. It's a simple as that. It cures very tough, very slick and without pores so there is no way for moisture to enter. Regular paint dries as the solvent evaporates which leave tiny pores. POR-15 dries by absorbing moisture (even "sucking" it out of existing rust) as part of it's curing process and thus is non-porous.
#11
Passing life by
I read there site but I got you had to remove the exsisting rust first. "You said that was only stating the flaking matter of rust and big gaps" Well that makes it alot easier to use.
Moister is two parted if you get moister on the other side of the metal it would still rust it. So if you dont remove the rust whats to prevent it from rusting from another entrance?
Moister is two parted if you get moister on the other side of the metal it would still rust it. So if you dont remove the rust whats to prevent it from rusting from another entrance?
#12
Thunder from downunder
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Originally Posted by gilmore03
can POR-15 be used under primer?
I have used it several cars, they even have a solution to fill holes which works well and lasts well also. I had pin holes in a pick up bed, filled, painted and used for years without any problems.
#13
I've used POR-15 on eeverything from cars to machinery thats outside all the time. It works very well and paints over (scuff it up 1st - it flows out very smooth) Only bad thing is that it does not stand up to UV fir very long at all. Have a steel toolbox top thats was painted aboput 7 years ago (clear POR) in my cellar and it has lasted well with no UV exposure (kind of an experiment).
I'd recommend it.
I'd recommend it.
#14
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Originally Posted by iceblue
I read there site but I got you had to remove the exsisting rust first. "You said that was only stating the flaking matter of rust and big gaps" Well that makes it alot easier to use.
Moister is two parted if you get moister on the other side of the metal it would still rust it. So if you dont remove the rust whats to prevent it from rusting from another entrance?
#15
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They use to sell some stuff called naval jelly it was good for treating the rust turned it into some hard *** material . But i would go with the sandblasting or using a wire grinding wheel to remove all the rust then treat it with the POR 15 i think thats what the speedshops recomend too. then just get someone to paint it i had cleaned my wheel wells really good and had my boy shoot it with some DBU paint & clearcoat to add extra strenght so it doesnt pit so easily from the rocks and stuff your tires toss in there. Cause if you live in NYC that dam rocksalt kills your car quickly once it finds the rust to thrive on i lost my 2nd fb which i had painted so pretty finally had it lookin how i wanted it & 3 yrs later i noticed the rust ate through the bins you could touch the tire from inside and the underbody had some bad parts too. so i have another and now i have to start from scratch again. So invest on what you must but paint rubberize treat sandblast or whatever you can afford b4 you end up like i did.
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