Clutch Master Cylinders
#1
Clutch Master Cylinders
I am having a lot of trouble with my clutch. It will not disengage when I press the peddle. I have tried several master cylinders and a few slave cylinders. I have replaced the piolet bearing, and inspected the clutch and pressure plate they seem to be in operational order. I have measured the clutch fork against a known good clutch fork and pivot ball and they are the same.
MC210 - EXEDY OEM Clutch Master Cylinder - EXEDY Globalparts - Performance and OEM Clutches and Flywheels
^^^MC210 I can only assume is an FC only master cylinder. But it is listed as a 1984-1991 RX7 use. I am currently fighting with the third party over a return from amazon. Doubtful I am going to get any money back for this completely incorrect part.
https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/.../i-128632.aspx
^^^MC207 I have tried two of these so far they claim to be used in 1984-1985 RX7's but niether of the two I installed worked. I am assuming that the internals are different somehow.
I cannot find a listing on exedy's website (I think its discontiued) but there is a third option for an S3. Its the MC476. It has one distinction from the MC207; it has a brass colored "thing" on the output of the master cylinder. I haven't tried an MC476 but I don't think it is going to help.
Does anybody have any other ideas? Because I am completely out of ideas for where the problem could be. The only other thing I could possibly think of looking is that something inside the pressure plate has given weigh and I cannot see it (all the little arms look fine). I don't think its a problem inside the bell housing because I have put additional material (washers) on the clutch fork to give the slave cylinder more throw and that didn't work.
MC210 - EXEDY OEM Clutch Master Cylinder - EXEDY Globalparts - Performance and OEM Clutches and Flywheels
^^^MC210 I can only assume is an FC only master cylinder. But it is listed as a 1984-1991 RX7 use. I am currently fighting with the third party over a return from amazon. Doubtful I am going to get any money back for this completely incorrect part.
https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/.../i-128632.aspx
^^^MC207 I have tried two of these so far they claim to be used in 1984-1985 RX7's but niether of the two I installed worked. I am assuming that the internals are different somehow.
I cannot find a listing on exedy's website (I think its discontiued) but there is a third option for an S3. Its the MC476. It has one distinction from the MC207; it has a brass colored "thing" on the output of the master cylinder. I haven't tried an MC476 but I don't think it is going to help.
Does anybody have any other ideas? Because I am completely out of ideas for where the problem could be. The only other thing I could possibly think of looking is that something inside the pressure plate has given weigh and I cannot see it (all the little arms look fine). I don't think its a problem inside the bell housing because I have put additional material (washers) on the clutch fork to give the slave cylinder more throw and that didn't work.
Last edited by Qingdao; 02-12-20 at 09:45 PM.
#2
ancient wizard...
What is the clutch and pressure plate in your car. Think I recall you running some type of multi puck clutch. Are the two a kit of some type?
Re: clutch slave,can’t imagine having so much trouble with one,have interchanged different year FB clutch master/slave cyls using what I had on hand to get something on the road.
lf you have a full pedal and slave is moving clutch fork in a full stroke then it has to be mechanical in nature inside bell housing.
l’d pull trans and clutch/plate and inspect pilot bearing,t/o bearing and support bearing rides on for galling.
Any chance oil leaking from input shaft oil seal?
I’d have replacements on hand to swap these parts out and install them if you don’t see anything obviously amiss.
Re: clutch slave,can’t imagine having so much trouble with one,have interchanged different year FB clutch master/slave cyls using what I had on hand to get something on the road.
lf you have a full pedal and slave is moving clutch fork in a full stroke then it has to be mechanical in nature inside bell housing.
l’d pull trans and clutch/plate and inspect pilot bearing,t/o bearing and support bearing rides on for galling.
Any chance oil leaking from input shaft oil seal?
I’d have replacements on hand to swap these parts out and install them if you don’t see anything obviously amiss.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 02-12-20 at 11:42 PM.
#3
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Something else to think about; I've never had problems with OEM Mazda "blue-label" parts. As long as you ordered them correctly, they will always fit and I can't remember a time that a Mazda OEM part didn't work right out of the bag.
I refuse to buy anything from Rock Auto because their quality, packaging, and tendency to send the wrong part has cost me $$$ and time.
I refuse to buy anything from Rock Auto because their quality, packaging, and tendency to send the wrong part has cost me $$$ and time.
#4
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Something else to think about; I've never had problems with OEM Mazda "blue-label" parts. As long as you ordered them correctly, they will always fit and I can't remember a time that a Mazda OEM part didn't work right out of the bag.
I refuse to buy anything from Rock Auto because their quality, packaging, and tendency to send the wrong part has cost me $$$ and time.
I refuse to buy anything from Rock Auto because their quality, packaging, and tendency to send the wrong part has cost me $$$ and time.
oddly the clutch hydraulics are one of the few things i don't buy from Mazda... the MC476 looks like the right one.
the original part has a circle with 3 pips on it, between the firewall and the reservoir. i'm not exactly sure, but Tokico was the brand in the USA for a while, the exedy looks correct too
#5
What is the clutch and pressure plate in your car. Think I recall you running some type of multi puck clutch. Are the two a kit of some type?
Re: clutch slave,can’t imagine having so much trouble with one,have interchanged different year FB clutch master/slave cyls using what I had on hand to get something on the road.
lf you have a full pedal and slave is moving clutch fork in a full stroke then it has to be mechanical in nature inside bell housing.
l’d pull trans and clutch/plate and inspect pilot bearing,t/o bearing and support bearing rides on for galling.
Any chance oil leaking from input shaft oil seal?
I’d have replacements on hand to swap these parts out and install them if you don’t see anything obviously amiss.
Re: clutch slave,can’t imagine having so much trouble with one,have interchanged different year FB clutch master/slave cyls using what I had on hand to get something on the road.
lf you have a full pedal and slave is moving clutch fork in a full stroke then it has to be mechanical in nature inside bell housing.
l’d pull trans and clutch/plate and inspect pilot bearing,t/o bearing and support bearing rides on for galling.
Any chance oil leaking from input shaft oil seal?
I’d have replacements on hand to swap these parts out and install them if you don’t see anything obviously amiss.
See that's what I thought too. So last month I pulled the trans and replaced the piolet bearing, and throw out bearing. All the spring steel thingys on the clutch seemed fine. The clutch fork and the pivot ball are the same dimensions as my other trans. So I tossed the trans back on.
Yes, I am running a 6 puck clutch. It has been on there for about a year, or 7 000 miles. I don't think its an issue but I am just going to replace it because I am just going to keep tossing money at this problem until it goes away; since no seller now will accept a return for parts installed or NIB.
Yeah, people love to go strait to Mazda for their parts, but my local Mazda dealership isn't worth the dirt its built on. For example they don't carry piolet bearing grease seals.
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