Chevy 350 engine & tranny in a 1st gen?
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Chevy 350 engine & tranny in a 1st gen?
has anyone seen or driven a first gen with a chevy 350 engine and tranny? There's one for sale here in portland oregon for $950.00
I'm checking out tomorrow, wanted to know if anyone knew of any known problems with this type of setup.
Here's the add....
Autos, Pickups $1000 & Less
1985 MAZDA RX7 with Chevy 350 & 350 trans, runs good, $950/best offer. 360-604-9769
Published in The Oregonian on 02/22
M.
I'm checking out tomorrow, wanted to know if anyone knew of any known problems with this type of setup.
Here's the add....
Autos, Pickups $1000 & Less
1985 MAZDA RX7 with Chevy 350 & 350 trans, runs good, $950/best offer. 360-604-9769
Published in The Oregonian on 02/22
M.
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Yes, the handling sux and the brakes are now too small for the additional 200 lbs. sitting right where you don't want it. Buy it only if you're looking for a good straight-line performer and never mention it again...
#3
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There can be any number of problems with that setup... Or there could be none at all.
The installer could be as skilled and intelligent as Jim LaBreck (jimlab on this forum... Installing a highly modded Chevy V8 in a 3rd gen... Dropping mucho $$$) and it'll work flawlessly while putting several hundred horsepower to the ground.
Or, the installer could have been as skilled and intelligent as Billy-Joe-Bob the redneck. The engine could be a leaking, rusting, nightmare with bubble gum for a headgasket; held in with chicken wire and duct tape.
You never know...
One thing, however... If the installer was skilled and intelligent as jimlab... Why is he ditching his project? Something to think about. Go check it out.
The installer could be as skilled and intelligent as Jim LaBreck (jimlab on this forum... Installing a highly modded Chevy V8 in a 3rd gen... Dropping mucho $$$) and it'll work flawlessly while putting several hundred horsepower to the ground.
Or, the installer could have been as skilled and intelligent as Billy-Joe-Bob the redneck. The engine could be a leaking, rusting, nightmare with bubble gum for a headgasket; held in with chicken wire and duct tape.
You never know...
One thing, however... If the installer was skilled and intelligent as jimlab... Why is he ditching his project? Something to think about. Go check it out.
Last edited by Pele; 02-27-02 at 07:11 PM.
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Originally posted by Pele
Or, the installer could have been as skilled and intelligent as Cletus the redneck.
Or, the installer could have been as skilled and intelligent as Cletus the redneck.
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Originally posted by mar3
Ouch...we actually have a Forum member that runs that alias and I know you meant him... stirrin' it up....
Ouch...we actually have a Forum member that runs that alias and I know you meant him... stirrin' it up....
#7
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yeah, they shoulda put in a Ford engine instead... it's supposed to be a serious bitch to do anything related to the distributor on a SBC converted *anything*.
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#8
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I was gonna make a comment about Fords being Pieces of ****... but I realized something.
Every car I've worked on that was a bitch to deal with was FWD.
Usually it involves spark plugs being unreachable or not visible. Sometimes it involves even unbolting the torque braces and tilting the engine. Not a problem with RWD.
Every car I've worked on that was a bitch to deal with was FWD.
Usually it involves spark plugs being unreachable or not visible. Sometimes it involves even unbolting the torque braces and tilting the engine. Not a problem with RWD.
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I'm a big gearhead/hot-rodder and I've constantly got friends wanting me to work on their rides BBUUTTTT they all know better than to ask if it's FWD...homey don't play dat...
#10
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hey pele - so what's the big deal? all that means is labor rates go up by a couple of hours and it only takes an extra 5-10 minutes of work. More cash in your pocket if you're flat-rate
BTW it takes less time for me to change the plugs from underneath than from above on my RX-7... including digging the floor jack out from the garage.
BTW it takes less time for me to change the plugs from underneath than from above on my RX-7... including digging the floor jack out from the garage.
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Originally posted by peejay
hey pele - so what's the big deal? all that means is labor rates go up by a couple of hours and it only takes an extra 5-10 minutes of work. More cash in your pocket if you're flat-rate
BTW it takes less time for me to change the plugs from underneath than from above on my RX-7... including digging the floor jack out from the garage.
hey pele - so what's the big deal? all that means is labor rates go up by a couple of hours and it only takes an extra 5-10 minutes of work. More cash in your pocket if you're flat-rate
BTW it takes less time for me to change the plugs from underneath than from above on my RX-7... including digging the floor jack out from the garage.
I dunno how you even thought of taking the jack out to change the plugs in the RX-7, or how it speeds you up... You must be weird or something.
#12
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Ford 3.8's are a pile of cake The radiator is the tricky part. My mom used to have a 3.3 Grand Am and that thing was a cinch to work on. 3.8's were even easier 'cos they're in larger cars and they don't have the P/S rack clinging to the firewall. (I used to do 3.8 waterpumps in 40 minutes, from road test to road test )
How'd I think of it? Well it was necessity, really. I was changing plugs one time and I bumped an A/C hose and it hissed loudly from one of the O-rings. So I had to be VERY careful around the A/C hoses. A week or so later, I had it up on the lift and I noticed... hey... the plugs are EASY to get to from down here! Plenty of room to get at 'em with a ratchet to pop them loose and then get with your fingers. (I have big hands...) So now I almost always do them from underneath...
How'd I think of it? Well it was necessity, really. I was changing plugs one time and I bumped an A/C hose and it hissed loudly from one of the O-rings. So I had to be VERY careful around the A/C hoses. A week or so later, I had it up on the lift and I noticed... hey... the plugs are EASY to get to from down here! Plenty of room to get at 'em with a ratchet to pop them loose and then get with your fingers. (I have big hands...) So now I almost always do them from underneath...
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Water pumps on 3.8l are cake, i got you beat by atlest 10 minutes! how you might ask. take off the motor mount 21mm nut, stick a jack stand under the cat lower the car on itto raise the motor, bam use my air gun on all the pulley and pump bolts and bam done in 30 minutes!
#14
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You do it UNDER the car? Hmm, wow. I always just jacked up the engine so far that the right side inner CV joint comes apart. Then I just attack everything with my trusty 3/8" impact.
Oh - did that include bleeding the cooling system? That was a rule at that particular shop, a car that has had its cooling system opened didn't leave the shop until it had good heat, the thermostat opened up, and the fan kicked on... that always takes forever, but at least we never had any "no heat" comebacks...
Oh - did that include bleeding the cooling system? That was a rule at that particular shop, a car that has had its cooling system opened didn't leave the shop until it had good heat, the thermostat opened up, and the fan kicked on... that always takes forever, but at least we never had any "no heat" comebacks...
#15
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Hey dude, let me know how it goes, I will be up in p-town the 8th and 9th and maybe the 10th. so maybe i will check it out. Privite message me your number and maybe we can compare cars 'n ****. i would like to meet up with a buch of guys up there. let me know what you think. Matt22
#16
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Ill stick with car stereo, my monkey paws for hands dont like motors. The rotary I understand and car stereo and wiring I understand. Water pumps and spark plugs on GM's, ford's etc. Someone else can do 'em
Headunit in a 2002 GM truck -- 6mins--15 minutes w/on star
Headunit in a 1990-1999 explorer-- 5 minutes
Headunit 2002 civic (these are a bitch) 15 minutes
Did a 240 SX today with active speakers (3 factory amps), did a deck, 4 speakers, changer, rewired past the factory amps, amp for sub, and the sub. In less than an hour
Headunit in a 2002 GM truck -- 6mins--15 minutes w/on star
Headunit in a 1990-1999 explorer-- 5 minutes
Headunit 2002 civic (these are a bitch) 15 minutes
Did a 240 SX today with active speakers (3 factory amps), did a deck, 4 speakers, changer, rewired past the factory amps, amp for sub, and the sub. In less than an hour
Last edited by MIKE-P-28; 02-28-02 at 11:43 PM.
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Going back to the original question, I see no obvious flaws in the concept. The weight increase does not render the car useless on a twisty road. The increase is much less than most people believe it to be, and it is proportional front/rear. BEWARE, however, that unless you have deep pockets, you will have to do ALL your own work to the car. (Nobody wants to work on someone else's hotrod and warrant the job) You will also be at the mercy of the original owner's skill and foresight. Go look at it. If you like the way it runs and handles, and the quality of the package, then buy it. I drive a 5.0 powered '82, and I love it. Personally, I wouldn't trade it for a rotary powered car. But I understand the liabilities associated with driving it.
Kerry
Kerry
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thanks all
That's why I love this forum. I find more useful information here than anywhere else, regarding rotary powered vehicals.
I haven't had the time to take a look at the car yet, its still for sale however...work has me chained to the wall as it were. --random thought-- I need a BIG garage.
M.
I haven't had the time to take a look at the car yet, its still for sale however...work has me chained to the wall as it were. --random thought-- I need a BIG garage.
M.
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