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So I’ve been prepping my carb for boost and eye found out that one of my boosters is slightly chipped, would a chip make a difference in the vacuum signal? It’s small chip, should eye just keep going with my rebuild or should eye swap in new boosters, eye have the other boosters out already, just the ones on the carb are being a pain to take out
Regardless, it will make some difference albeit likely a small one (depending on the size of the chip). Seeing as how you're prepping for boost though, I would suggest replacing it. Again, it probably won't make a huge difference, but better safe than sorry in my opinion.
As for removing them, you can either find a bolt with the proper thread and use that to pull them out, or use an air bleed you don't care about. What I usually do is wrap some needle nose pliers with electrical tape and pull them out that way. It's more likely to break them this way, but I haven't had an issue yet, even with slimmed boosters.
It’s not this one but it’s the bottom end of this part, You can see the chip to the left, it’s not big eye was cleaning the carb and felt something in the cleaner after checking over the carb eye found this to be the culprit
My thought was to replace it anyways, eye have like 5 spare carbs but eye figured eye would ask about it. Eye have a junk air bleed that eye use to remove them with, this one has been extra stubborn, I’ll try the needle nose plier method
Last edited by DOWNHILLDRIVER; 12-04-20 at 12:17 PM.
Realistically that doesn't look too bad, and it's on the downstream side which helps a little. Then again with five spare carbs I would definitely replace it, no reason not to at that point unless you can't get it out. Save it for another carb that won't be seeing boost.
Also with the needle nose plier method grab the support arm, not the booster venturis themselves. You probably already figured that; just wanted to make sure it was clear.
Last edited by Benjamin4456; 12-04-20 at 12:38 PM.
Well eye got it out so I’ll send a photo but now eye have a new problem smh, gunna try pulling it out with picks but eye don’t know might have to drill it out smhh So you can see the chip but it broke when eye was taking it out so now eye gotta figure out how to take out the piece that’s still in the carb body smhhh, eye would use another carb body but this is the only one eye have that doesn’t have a power valve or any of that extra stuff
Wye arr ewe using eye instead ov I? Just learn about homonyms? Maybe I'm officially old..
eye definitely know about homonyms, eye just choose to write it this way because eye can!
eye got the piece of metal out but eye messed up the little plastic thing underneath and gotta get that out to replace eye noticed they’re a bit different, like ones kindof fatter, don’t think that should matter as they’re both stamped 542 or something
just because you can doesn't mean you should. the use of grammar proves education, or lack there of. i will use short versions of words like u and ur rather than you and your just cause i'm used to the limited characters in txt messages. quite often i've seen people use the word 'to' for 'too'. then there's the word 'idle', referring to engine speed, but the person will spell it 'idol'.
just because you can doesn't mean you should. the use of grammar proves education, or lack there of. i will use short versions of words like u and ur rather than you and your just cause i'm used to the limited characters in txt messages. quite often i've seen people use the word 'to' for 'too'. then there's the word 'idle', referring to engine speed, but the person will spell it 'idol'.
no eye get that, but I’m not using idle with idol, I’m swapping I for eye, so if it’s that crazy of a thing about grammar it’s more a them problem I’d say, besides this is just an Internet forum eye don’t think it’s that serious haha,
but yea eye got the booster out and the plastic but it seems as though the booster is too small now, eye guess you can put blue loctite to make it stick in there
Perhaps someone with knowledge of homonyms in other languages should write the answers in that language, translate, and then post the translation in the reply. Non-English speakers will have a hard time understanding what you are trying to communicate. Hell even native English speakers (American English, or elsewhere) will probably have a hard time. The PURPOSE of these forums are to freely exchange information. If you are purposely muddling or "encrypting" this information you are doing a disservice to everyone involved. As stated above, yes sometimes people mistakenly, either through ignorance or typo, misspell a word or two. These are mistakes and in my opinion are fine while being difficult for the sake of being difficult is not fine.
I truly hope you find your answers but I'll bet a lot of people will pass over your posts due to your style of writing.
Perhaps someone with knowledge of homonyms in other languages should write the answers in that language, translate, and then post the translation in the reply. Non-English speakers will have a hard time understanding what you are trying to communicate. Hell even native English speakers (American English, or elsewhere) will probably have a hard time. The PURPOSE of these forums are to freely exchange information. If you are purposely muddling or "encrypting" this information you are doing a disservice to everyone involved. As stated above, yes sometimes people mistakenly, either through ignorance or typo, misspell a word or two. These are mistakes and in my opinion are fine while being difficult for the sake of being difficult is not fine.
I truly hope you find your answers but I'll bet a lot of people will pass over your posts due to your style of writing.
while Eye completely agree on the basis of translations being messed up, which was something I completely overlooked, not disregarded. To go so far as to say that I’m encrypting my messages is quite a reach, if my posts can help someone else with their build would be really cool, so I’m going to stop putting “eye” as I normally would solely for the sake of translations.
I’ve been told before that people might not want to respond to my posts because of my word choice, not that I’m trying to be difficult at all but something I do when I type. Thank you for even taking the time to respond
while Eye completely agree on the basis of translations being messed up, which was something I completely overlooked, not disregarded. To go so far as to say that I’m encrypting my messages is quite a reach, if my posts can help someone else with their build would be really cool, so I’m going to stop putting “eye” as I normally would solely for the sake of translations.
I’ve been told before that people might not want to respond to my posts because of my word choice, not that I’m trying to be difficult at all but something I do when I type. Thank you for even taking the time to respond
@DOWNHILLDRIVER I'd like to apologize for reacting so harsh to your post and really this is something that if I felt so strongly on I should have moved to a private format instead of posting publicly. Work has been stressful lately and for whatever reason I reacted poorly to your post... especially when I had nothing of value in respect to the question to add.
I will add that I recall reading there are minor differences between SA and FB carbs but I'd need to do some additional research the find the differences.. Let me see if I can find that information.
The booster holes should all be the same size (approximately) across all RX-7 carbs. However, often there is a need to expand the booster's "sleeve" (that's not the right term but I'm at a loss for words). Usually on the forum it's referenced as the "wax punch method", although any slightly tapered, sturdy dowel will do the trick. It's important to not go too crazy as you risk cracking it, but slowly driving the punch (lubrication and heat are a good idea) into the booster will expand it slightly. Hopefully that will be enough to get it to sit tight.
@DOWNHILLDRIVER I'd like to apologize for reacting so harsh to your post and really this is something that if I felt so strongly on I should have moved to a private format instead of posting publicly. Work has been stressful lately and for whatever reason I reacted poorly to your post... especially when I had nothing of value in respect to the question to add.
I will add that I recall reading there are minor differences between SA and FB carbs but I'd need to do some additional research the find the differences.. Let me see if I can find that information.
Oh you don’t have to apologize at all I know how that can be, especially with all the crazy stuff going on in the world lately. But yea I had see those old posts and they mention the normal differences like air horn and altitude compensation, but nothing about the boosters themselves, I’m thinking I’m probably gunna have to keep this carb body on the back burner until I can get another fb carb. Sucks cause it my understanding that the SA carbs aren’t the best for putting boost through but we’ll see when I get there
The booster holes should all be the same size (approximately) across all RX-7 carbs. However, often there is a need to expand the booster's "sleeve" (that's not the right term but I'm at a loss for words). Usually on the forum it's referenced as the "wax punch method", although any slightly tapered, sturdy dowel will do the trick. It's important to not go too crazy as you risk cracking it, but slowly driving the punch (lubrication and heat are a good idea) into the booster will expand it slightly. Hopefully that will be enough to get it to sit tight.
ive heard of that before but I didn’t know that that was what they were referring too, I’m gunna have to try that as well and get back with results
12-03-20, 06:50 PM
Just learn about homonyms? Maybe I'm officially old..
