sa carb vs. fb carb
04-01-05, 07:15 PM
#1
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sa carb vs. fb carb
anyone have a pic of the sa carb? was the carb changed between the years of sa to fb? i went to the junk yard today and found a sa and compared it to the fb. had stock air box and everything, but why was the design different?
can someone take a pic of a stock sa carb for me and tell me different between the 2 stock carbs?
can someone take a pic of a stock sa carb for me and tell me different between the 2 stock carbs?
04-02-05, 02:05 AM
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The carb on all 12A engined RX-7s was identical, a Nikki. The change from sa to fb was only a change of US vin designation not of model. Elsewhere they kept the sa designation. Any carb, unless modified to increase performance, is basically interchangable with any other Nikki casb.
04-02-05, 03:26 PM
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They are not exactly the same. I don't remember the differences exactly (I could find out if need be), but I know that Paul Yaw would not modify the 79/80 carb, only the later years.
The best setup was the 79/80 manifold with the 81-85 carb.
The best setup was the 79/80 manifold with the 81-85 carb.
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04-02-05, 03:48 PM
#9
Airflow is my life
The reason he wont do the SA carbs is because they have a power valve and that makes re curving the fuel delivery a PITA. The PV opens by vacuum like on a Holley, but unlike the Holley theres no tuning parts availible. Functionally, the carbs will interchange and work, all years, even the Rx-3 carb will work.
V8kilir, wut have you been smokin? I just compared the carbs and the bores in the throttle plates are identical.
V8kilir, wut have you been smokin? I just compared the carbs and the bores in the throttle plates are identical.
04-02-05, 05:45 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by Rx7carl
The reason he wont do the SA carbs is because they have a power valve and that makes re curving the fuel delivery a PITA. The PV opens by vacuum like on a Holley, but unlike the Holley theres no tuning parts availible. Functionally, the carbs will interchange and work, all years, even the Rx-3 carb will work.
V8kilir, wut have you been smokin? I just compared the carbs and the bores in the throttle plates are identical.
V8kilir, wut have you been smokin? I just compared the carbs and the bores in the throttle plates are identical.
Ill see if I can hunt down the pics, ask sterling he knows.
04-03-05, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by hanman
The best setup was the 79/80 manifold with the 81-85 carb.
wow, really? how is it a better manifold? if this is true then i might go out to get me one. its vary hard for sa's to come around in the junk yard around my area. let alone on the streets.
Last edited by woodonastick; 04-03-05 at 04:14 AM.
04-05-05, 10:17 AM
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I think a couple of you guys have been smokin' the same ****!
The bores are IDENTICAL.
They're even the same dimensions and angles as the Rx3 & 4 Nikkis, as well as the 13B carbs.
79 & some of 80 have a big mouth airhorn compared to the later ones, but Carl has flowed them and found it makes no difference (IE, the small-mouth out flows the main body anyway, so it's moot.).
There is the power valve on the 79s, but that's easily removed. The PITA is that there is a complex circuit running throughout the airhorn and the mainbody that needs extra effort to block off, or it will cause a leak.
The Nikkis before 79 have a richer solenoid/power valve built into the throttle bodies.
79&80 carbs are more difficult to dial in the idle from scratch after a rebuild because there is an air adjustment screw in addition to the fuel adjustment and valve adjustment.
In 81 (I think) they did away with the air adjustment in North American bound carbs, and simply pressed in a jet instead. It eliminates one variable, and your left with only the valve adjustment screw (speed) and the fuel adjustment screw (mixture).
This doesn't make the carbs any more difficult to modify, it just makes it more difficult to get it running right after the install. Once set, they are'nt prone to anything worse then the later. Conversly, there's nothing to be gained performance-wise from the ability to dial idle air yourself.
However, the 79s are what I'm using to prototype the emissions-compliat Sterling Carb we're coming out with later this summer just because of this adjustability.
You can mix and match different year carb bits so long as you're modding and not trying to get any vacuum **** working again. But if you're trying to pass emissions, or get a rat's nest to work on a carb that has mixed throttle body, main housing, and airhorn, forget it!
That said, you could get an 84-85 throttle body to work with most emissions crap in the nest with any combo housing and mouth, so long as you eliminate the idle altitude comp valve.
The bores are IDENTICAL.
They're even the same dimensions and angles as the Rx3 & 4 Nikkis, as well as the 13B carbs.
79 & some of 80 have a big mouth airhorn compared to the later ones, but Carl has flowed them and found it makes no difference (IE, the small-mouth out flows the main body anyway, so it's moot.).
There is the power valve on the 79s, but that's easily removed. The PITA is that there is a complex circuit running throughout the airhorn and the mainbody that needs extra effort to block off, or it will cause a leak.
The Nikkis before 79 have a richer solenoid/power valve built into the throttle bodies.
79&80 carbs are more difficult to dial in the idle from scratch after a rebuild because there is an air adjustment screw in addition to the fuel adjustment and valve adjustment.
In 81 (I think) they did away with the air adjustment in North American bound carbs, and simply pressed in a jet instead. It eliminates one variable, and your left with only the valve adjustment screw (speed) and the fuel adjustment screw (mixture).
This doesn't make the carbs any more difficult to modify, it just makes it more difficult to get it running right after the install. Once set, they are'nt prone to anything worse then the later. Conversly, there's nothing to be gained performance-wise from the ability to dial idle air yourself.
However, the 79s are what I'm using to prototype the emissions-compliat Sterling Carb we're coming out with later this summer just because of this adjustability.
You can mix and match different year carb bits so long as you're modding and not trying to get any vacuum **** working again. But if you're trying to pass emissions, or get a rat's nest to work on a carb that has mixed throttle body, main housing, and airhorn, forget it!
That said, you could get an 84-85 throttle body to work with most emissions crap in the nest with any combo housing and mouth, so long as you eliminate the idle altitude comp valve.
