Carb problem?? And electrical mess solution??
Carb problem?? And electrical mess solution??
H... My 1984 gsl is my dd. Started off as my first car had for a year and upgraded to a 1988 rx7 gxl and had that for a year before I wrapped it around a pole one late night.then I started driving my 1984 again and have a problems now and again with it ie the ignitors pooped I hade the battery harnest touching it for a while and it was messing with my tach the metal harness was shooting mad sparks so I moved it and it worked fine again and then a month later the ignitors died and when they were replaced now the tach is a little wonky at low rpms (1-2 thousand). The next thing the wipers died seized up so I fixed that. Was changing the oil 2 weeks ago and everything went fine but after reading about lung butter I went and checked and I had a bunch so I looked around and there is a nipple on the oil filler tube with a hose connected that goes beside the beehive to nowhere so
One of my questions is do I need to hook that hose up to a pcv valve and connect to intake???
Also the air cleaner stinks look gas as does the lung butter in my oil filer tube ?? Is this normal??
So in front of the driver side of the engine bay by the firewall there is just a jammable of cords there I'm assuming fog lights as well as a electric fan and the original fusible links on top of that my question is how do I clean this up and keep electric fan and fog lights which( the fog lights don't work and there is a mystery swi h on my dash near the cluster lights dim reel underneath steering wheel to the left. I would like to fix the fog lights but am not honestly sure were to start.... I was thinking of 2 gen fuse box switch to get rid of fusible links and upgrading to a better alternator?? Just wondering where I should start I have no electrical experience except for swapping wiper motor and washer fluid pump and squirterz
Also the air cleaner has a hose connecting to exhaust manifold. I don't have the hose and there is a hole down there is this a problem??? And what the he'll should I do lol.
I'm not incompetent but as this is my daily driver to and from work were I make money to support her I do not want to f#^k this up??? I will post pics up asap just need a typing break from my iPad the damn screen is so small
One of my questions is do I need to hook that hose up to a pcv valve and connect to intake???
Also the air cleaner stinks look gas as does the lung butter in my oil filer tube ?? Is this normal??
So in front of the driver side of the engine bay by the firewall there is just a jammable of cords there I'm assuming fog lights as well as a electric fan and the original fusible links on top of that my question is how do I clean this up and keep electric fan and fog lights which( the fog lights don't work and there is a mystery swi h on my dash near the cluster lights dim reel underneath steering wheel to the left. I would like to fix the fog lights but am not honestly sure were to start.... I was thinking of 2 gen fuse box switch to get rid of fusible links and upgrading to a better alternator?? Just wondering where I should start I have no electrical experience except for swapping wiper motor and washer fluid pump and squirterz
Also the air cleaner has a hose connecting to exhaust manifold. I don't have the hose and there is a hole down there is this a problem??? And what the he'll should I do lol.
I'm not incompetent but as this is my daily driver to and from work were I make money to support her I do not want to f#^k this up??? I will post pics up asap just need a typing break from my iPad the damn screen is so small
Ok pics are on my profile in a album I can't put them on the thread as of right now but will work on it. I only have one album and I captioned them don't know if anyone is up for looking at the pics but they are there for now until I put them up on thread thxs.
search function will give you answers to the crap in the oil filler neck, results from incorrect routing of the crankcase ventilation system, fixing that should fix the fuel smell as well
as for wiring issues you can find wiring diagrams here http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual
just trace all the wires, you should be able to figure it out, will take a fair bit of time though.
as for wiring issues you can find wiring diagrams here http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual
just trace all the wires, you should be able to figure it out, will take a fair bit of time though.
Ahh ok the wiring diagrams are PDF files, not sure if those work on an ipad?
As for the crankcase vent issue, have a look on the first gen FAQ page here https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gen-rx-7-faq-page-237777/
and scroll down to the "Q. Why do I need to vent my crankcase?" section, there are a few links there
As for the crankcase vent issue, have a look on the first gen FAQ page here https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gen-rx-7-faq-page-237777/
and scroll down to the "Q. Why do I need to vent my crankcase?" section, there are a few links there
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Ok so this crank case venting sounds easy but I am confused. All these threads about it have the emissions removed if I have the emissions shouldn't it be venting properly unless something came undone??
1. Ipads can't read PDF files normally. Contractual thing between Adobe and Apple,
go figure. You'll need to use a real computer to read a lot of documents. Sorry.
2. Sounds like you still have the rats nest but some of the connections are fubarred.
You need to go to http://www.foxed.ca and look at the various manuals avialable.
They are mostly PDFs so your ipad will be useless here.
3. All that electrical nonsense up by the battery will need to be figured out. Its a
pain but Oneiros advice there is spot on.
Posting up the pics in the thread will help a lot. Most of us aren't going to run
over to your album and search them out. I'm sorry your ipad is so useless, especially for
what it costs.
A 1984 RX7 as a DD is an oxymoron. Your going to have issues constantly unless you
pull it in and rack and do some serious preventative and restorative work on it. Just
my 2 cents and not trying to bait you.
Hopefully you get some pics up and the experts in rats nest mayhem
(like ray_green or DivinDriver) will stumble onto this thread and help you get it sorted.
go figure. You'll need to use a real computer to read a lot of documents. Sorry.
2. Sounds like you still have the rats nest but some of the connections are fubarred.
You need to go to http://www.foxed.ca and look at the various manuals avialable.
They are mostly PDFs so your ipad will be useless here.
3. All that electrical nonsense up by the battery will need to be figured out. Its a
pain but Oneiros advice there is spot on.
Posting up the pics in the thread will help a lot. Most of us aren't going to run
over to your album and search them out. I'm sorry your ipad is so useless, especially for
what it costs.
A 1984 RX7 as a DD is an oxymoron. Your going to have issues constantly unless you
pull it in and rack and do some serious preventative and restorative work on it. Just
my 2 cents and not trying to bait you.
Hopefully you get some pics up and the experts in rats nest mayhem
(like ray_green or DivinDriver) will stumble onto this thread and help you get it sorted.
Going to put those pics up tonight and yes my iPad 1 is useless and helpful to. I would never have got it if my ex gf didn't work at apple and having her mom bought it for me I'm happy lol I have found a thread with proper pics for me to understand what to do with the electrical mess and already went and picked up a secon gen fuse block
questions from left to right labelled 1-5
1-the metal relays beside all the wires do these have to go to the 2nd gen fuse box i want to install?
2 & 4- do i need to have the black thing on the air clener witht the hose to the exhaust there ??
3- the purge valve is the round thing there and the hose beside it is connected to the oil filler neck i think and is sitting the unconnected?? and the puge walve is connected to the other vent hose on the engine block?? im not sure about this so those are questions
5-which of these holes in the aircleaner are suppose to suck air at idle? the big one above the brass part in there does and the on beside the brass part does as well?? im not sure about this either?
1-the metal relays beside all the wires do these have to go to the 2nd gen fuse box i want to install?
2 & 4- do i need to have the black thing on the air clener witht the hose to the exhaust there ??
3- the purge valve is the round thing there and the hose beside it is connected to the oil filler neck i think and is sitting the unconnected?? and the puge walve is connected to the other vent hose on the engine block?? im not sure about this so those are questions
5-which of these holes in the aircleaner are suppose to suck air at idle? the big one above the brass part in there does and the on beside the brass part does as well?? im not sure about this either?
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
2&4 - that hole on top the metal shroud around your manifold (called a "Heat stove") is supposed to connect to a like-sized opening on the bottom of the air cleaner inlet, using a flexible high-temp duct hose that you can get at most auto-parts stores for a few bucks - universal-fit item.
It's purpose is to help the car warm up faster in cold weather by drawing inlet air past the toasty manifold and into the carb. Once the car hits temperature, a bimetal spring closes off the duct by way of a flapper door just inside the air cleaner inlet.
Leaving it off just makes warming up in cold weather take a bit longer. No other impact.
5 - the "large one" should lead to your smog pump (just follow the hose) in which case it will suck air at all speeds. This is because smog pumps generally suck.
It's purpose is to help the car warm up faster in cold weather by drawing inlet air past the toasty manifold and into the carb. Once the car hits temperature, a bimetal spring closes off the duct by way of a flapper door just inside the air cleaner inlet.
Leaving it off just makes warming up in cold weather take a bit longer. No other impact.
5 - the "large one" should lead to your smog pump (just follow the hose) in which case it will suck air at all speeds. This is because smog pumps generally suck.
Ok hooked up the heat stove and it was in pretty bbad shape very loose haha surprised it doesn't rattle or didn't melt any wires. Still confused about pcv valve and my lung mustard problem seeing as I have emissions **** still there. And those metal relays beside the fusible links there what to do with them?
I figure those relays I was talking about don't do much as no one has said anything so I will go ahead with the fuse block hoOk up and an s4 alt as well. Prolly gonna do 2gcdfis aswell but would like to have figured out this lung mustard issue might post a thread fo it entitled lung mustard with emissions hooked up ??
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