3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

i did search but i really couldnt find anything. my brakes are draging i can feel them while driving and i also jacked the passenger front end up and spun the wheel and felt it and heard it. this problem i think is on at least 2 of 4 wheels how do i fix this problem? i talked to someone at the auto parts store and they said that my brake line collapased on its self any truth to that?

capt murph

If you spun it by hand, it is not dragging very much. That wheel would not be enough to be a concern. The contact noise you hear may be a bit normal for a brake system with many miles on it. I don't think the sound issue is a problem.

Check the other wheels.

A collapsed brake line? Hmmmm. I never heard of one collapsing. I suppose in theory that IF a brake line could collapse, it might possibly act like a check valve and restrict the return flow a bit. But with no pressure, pads or shoes simply touching should not cause drag. It would have to collapse pretty hard and far to cause a problem.

Perhaps you could rub the flexible lines down with a cloth and try to feel for a deformation. ( A thin cloth helps your feel, like when checking body work). If you find one on a wheel that drags, well there ya go.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

first thing I would do is take out your wheel bearings clean them, and inspect them and repack/replace them.... I had a similar problem and that was the solution...

robs_seven

iTrader: (1)

when i redid my brakes the first time, i rebuilt the calipers, put in new wheel cylinders, and all new pads and shoes and every one of mine were TIGHT. after driving you could feel heat in the wheels, dont worry i did not drive hard and fast but i drove it some to break everything in. and now mine are doing great. i say drive it just be aware of how fast and hard your driving, and just check the wheel temperature with your hand. give it a week and see if its still doing it. many things could cause it but i dont think its a huge concern if it still stops fine and does not lock up just play with it and see if it stops. good luck

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

well the thing is that if im on a hill and roll back alil i hear the rear brakes sqeak alil bit with out the bakes applyd at all so i know that its more than just that one

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

stupid question for ya. what all do i have ta pull to clean and repack the bearings. i should do this anyways who knows when it was last done!!

kgray

well take the rotors off first (good instructions in haynes manual), take out bearings, mainly just check the grease, if it's white, you know it's time to replace/clean very well the bearings. I got some new ones for only like $20 for the set and then add some money for the new bearing grease and paper towels and goop. bearing grease is some nasty stuff.
After i did this my alignment became perfect!
I was happy and didnt cost much money, but maybe a day.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

cool will i have to remove the rear axles after i remove the discs to change the bearings on the rear???

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Well you first take off the wheel. Remove the caliper and hang it securily with mechanics wire to prevent damage to the line (hanging it can crack the lines). You will also need to remove the caliper mounting bracket, simple 2 bolts (17mm I believe)...

Then remove the hub on the rotor, once this is off you will see a cottering pin, you need to take this off, remove the castilated nut and then remove the hub nut. From this point stick your hand over the front of the rotor (where the bolt was) and remove the rotor, the first bearing and a locking washer will fall into your hand. Then to get out the second bearing turn the rotor over and it on a bench. Use a large pry bar to pop off the seal on the end of the rotor (be careful, it doesn't hurt to plan to replace this anyways). Then you can pull the large inner wheel bearing out.

To clean these up you use varsol (parts cleaning fluid) and a parts cleaning brush. Scrub the crap out of these things and try to get all the grease you can out. Once you are happy with you cleaning job blow all the excess varsol off the bearings with compressed air. (don't spin the bearing on your finger with compressed air, it can suddenly stop and rip your finger off apparently....) At this point inspect them for any damage, look at the rollers and the walls of the bearing for any damage...

Then, if you have a wheel bearing packer tool use that to fill the bearings up with grease, but since it sounds like its your first time you will need to hand pack them. Get a large amount of wheel bearing grease in your hand and work it into the bearings. When you are satisfied with your work, put the large inner bearing back into its position, followed by the oil/grease seal and tap it in with a hammer being careful not to wreck the seal surface. Lubricate the spindle before putting the rotor back on, and place the rotor with the oil seal and inner bearing back on.

Push it all the way back the spindle, then place the smaller bearing in place followed by the lockwasher (fits into a groove, it only goes on 1 way) and then the large nut. Now this is the important part, tighten the nut right up (its a 23mm) with a wrench, then loosen the nut off and retighten it as much as you can by hand. This places preload on the wheel bearings, a common do it yourselfer mistake... From here place the castilated nut on and see if it lines up with the hole in the spindle for the cottering pin. If it doesn't, turn the nut a very small amount with the 23mm wrench until the pin and hole lines up.

Put a new cottering pin in (the pin should fit snuggily in the hole, thats how you know you picked the right size) and with wire cutters make the cottering pin look like it was when you first removed it. Then put a little wheel bearing grease in the hub cap before tapping it on with a hammer...

I apologize that this turned into such a book of a post, its a really easy job to do, it just takes a minute or two to explain...

3times

That is good info Dan. I will use it when I overhual my brakes next week.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

cool so its not much different than changing the bearings on a Blackhawk helicopter. this would be my 1st time doing this on a car are far as pulling the bearings and repacking them, i ve done repacked over 100's of bearings for the army over the 4 yrs so thats not the diffurct parts its just getting some time on a lift at $4 an hr here on post and without the wife bitchin at me for spending too much time on my car!hahaha! but it sounds simple enough cool thanks Dan!!!

zduford

yeah and well your at it just see if the calipers have movement in them, or just get new square cut seals and put them in.....its pretty easy....air compressor to blow the piston out( but don put your hand in the way...have a block of wood between the caliper and piston.) pull the old seal out, hone the bore, and then new seal and tada! good as new!!

Make sure your bleed nipples work first otherwise, you may as well just buy new calipers instead of, breaking the nipple, drilling it out, tapping it and putting a new one in.....