1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

block heaters for our cars?

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Old 11-13-14, 10:52 PM
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block heaters for our cars?

Im curious but are there block heaters availabe for our cars like a coolant heater. At nights it can get pretty cold some nights here and ive already seen my first snowfall and my first few nights of hard and cold starts where the motor is just turning over but not igniting the fuel properly.
Old 11-14-14, 09:14 AM
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Mazda had one, 0000-88-6600 and 0000-88-6600-BK for the bracket. no idea weather its available still
Old 11-14-14, 09:22 AM
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I just removed one from an S5.
Stupid looking thing too.
Old 11-15-14, 10:22 AM
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https://www.google.com/search?client...9.aKhF_Qia6xQa 120

a 120 volt light bulb also
Old 11-15-14, 10:53 AM
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Perhaps a different, better option is to upgrade all of your battery cables to 2 gauge with real copper inside. Then upgrade the ignition to direct fire and do a rebuild on the carb. Then lastly rebuild the engine with nice tight clearances to the tighter side of factory spec. Also be sure you have a fast healthy starter. Your engine will be able to start in subfreezing temps. The engine will have more power than it does now, and the power will alway be there, even in the summer time on hot starts which are usually harder than when they're cold. No need for a clunky block heater.
Old 11-15-14, 11:02 AM
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Haha thanks for the advice but it might already be to late now i think one of my housings went bad but when it di or whatever went bad the motor did continue to run perfectly smooth and without missing.

But it seems water has gotten into my oil now
Old 11-15-14, 11:11 AM
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Ok, you know what you need to do now. Rebuild time!
Old 11-15-14, 12:59 PM
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Oh yes it is jeff me and a few others that are with me are looking forward to it. And im going to stop my turbo process and just get stuff torn out replaced and fixed up like it should be.
Old 11-15-14, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Perhaps a different, better option is to upgrade all of your battery cables to 2 gauge with real copper inside. Then upgrade the ignition to direct fire and do a rebuild on the carb. Then lastly rebuild the engine with nice tight clearances to the tighter side of factory spec. Also be sure you have a fast healthy starter. Your engine will be able to start in subfreezing temps. The engine will have more power than it does now, and the power will alway be there, even in the summer time on hot starts which are usually harder than when they're cold. No need for a clunky block heater.
wouldn't it be cheaper to hire a guy, we'll call him woodhouse, to drain the fluids, take them inside, heat them up to the proper temperature, and then put them back in?
Old 11-15-14, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s

wouldn't it be cheaper to hire a guy, we'll call him woodhouse, to drain the fluids, take them inside, heat them up to the proper temperature, and then put them back in?
Haha maybe but i think a fresh rebuild would be in order so i know that when i go to put more goodies in i wont kill anything right away.
Old 11-15-14, 10:01 PM
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Rotaries, at least old-school ones (so, not RX8, Gen 3 RX7), HATE cold and are a biotch to get to run in winter weather. In Alaska (caveat: NOT my SA - she is put into hibernation), we use:
-battery blanket or underpad heater. Warm battery= plenty of strong cranks. $35
-oil pan heater: same idea, but glued/stuck to bottom of oil pan. Warm oil circulates quick, getting it up and in fast
-block heater: NA for old rotaries
-coolant heater: as said, ungainly things: ones I have seen will essentially splice into upper rad hose with a heat element (some used to wrap AROUND the hose).

Works on our Piston cars at -40F or worse....

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Old 11-16-14, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 7aull
Rotaries, at least old-school ones (so, not RX8, Gen 3 RX7), HATE cold and are a biotch to get to run in winter weather. In Alaska (caveat: NOT my SA - she is put into hibernation), we use:
-battery blanket or underpad heater. Warm battery= plenty of strong cranks. $35
-oil pan heater: same idea, but glued/stuck to bottom of oil pan. Warm oil circulates quick, getting it up and in fast
-block heater: NA for old rotaries
-coolant heater: as said, ungainly things: ones I have seen will essentially splice into upper rad hose with a heat element (some used to wrap AROUND the hose).

Works on our Piston cars at -40F or worse....

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Haha well you got that right my engine already broke from how cold it was as long as my block didnt crack or anything im ok but its still my fault for not winterizing my car sooner at least this gives me more of a chance to do things to it i couldnt running.
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