IanS

iTrader: (4)

Whats the best way to install the oil pan baffle plate? Do I need 2 gaskets or should I simply use a gasket between baffle and pan and use RTV between block and baffle? Vice versa? Seems that with the oil pan bolts being as short as they are, that 2 gaskets would make it to where there are very few threads of oil pan bolts actually holdint to the block. Anyone have any experience with these?

-IanS

BUMBLEBEE7

iTrader: (1)

Personally I would use 2 gaskets with a little RTV. I hate leakssss......

djessence

Mazda recommends 2 gaskets in their comp guide and a bit of sealant/silicone probably wouldnt hurt either (just a little tho)

Mazdanowski

I used the gaskets without RTV and there always seems to be a very very slight leak. A skim coat of oil sits on top the baffle plate and keeps the upper gasket always wet with oil and my guess is that caused my weep.

Since it is in my race motor and gets torn down I don't worry. For a street motor you need to something that won't absord the oil like RTV.

Regarding the bolts I would go to a hardware store and get longer ones. It is too easy to strip the ones in the aluminum housings to start with. When you lose an extra tread or two to the extra gasket/sealant and baffle plate you are asking for trouble with that stock length bolts.

broke7

iTrader: (1)

I used two gaskets and rtv on mine and bought longer bolts

waysrx7

Oil pan gaskets suck! they always leak unless you use some RTV/Silicone with it.

Whatever you choose to do, use some RTV/silicone.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

When I did that really nice black '83 last year, that Vipernicus likes so much, I used a baffle plate with RTV and two gaskets and scrounged up 22 stock Mazda bolts in the correct length. I grabbed them from several waiting projects and my bolt pile. I came real close to not having enough so I replaced several on the REPU and Cosmo with newer short oil pan bolts from FBs. They were just for things like the side inspection cover between the bellhousing and engine (netted me two), shift lever to shifter housing (three bolts) and so on.

What a way to save a trip to a hardware store. But hey, they are stock looking bolts, and that's the important part (I guess).

IanS

iTrader: (4)

Would it be worth the time/effort to make studs? I just thought about this but the mustang I have you can basically replace all bolts with studs and its apparently better. In fact ARP makes an oil pan stud kit for the 302/351.

Ideas on wether or not this would be a beneficial mod for my 12A? I will use a thin coat of RTV on the gaskets. Thanks for the input guys.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I wouldn't bother with studs. It's more weight and more parts. You would also probably need flat washers and lock washers. While you're at it, why not fab up a set of load spreaders to more even apply pressure? It's what the older rotaries up to '78 had. There were just straight and angled pieces narrow enough to fit the flat lip, with holes and about 1/8" or so thick. Maybe 3/16" or 4 or 5mm.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you can stud em, the really old parts books show studs, might be better if you're using 2 gaskets plus the baffle

on the con side its harder to clean it all up when/if you take it apart later

jim_chung

iTrader: (2)

Stock bolts are definitely long enough, don't forget the gasket undergoes some compression and I had no problem with two gaskets and the baffle plate with just stock bolts.