NLPerformance

iTrader: (2)

My oil line from my beehive just burst. Luckily I wasn't driving and heard it on startup. I have had a leak for a month or so now, it was very very slow and I couldn't trace it down. But now I guess I know where it was coming from.



Do I have to get a line made? or do I just find a replacement and replace?
HOWEVER, if that does entail taking the beehive off and lots of other parts from that area, I might as well do the oil cooler I was planning to do later.

Is there anyone that could walk me through the steps or the like? Just a teen and I dont want to further mess it up.
Thanks,
Nick

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I've never seen a steel hardline burst at only stock oil pressures. It's pretty much impossible until there is rust or mechaniocal issues (such as being bend by a previous owner/mechanic).

It looks kinda bent in the picture. Yeah, look for another line or another full beehive. Most people give them away when they go to a front mount air oil cooler.

Setting up a front mount oil cooler is involved but can be done. However I recommend another beehive for you, for right now. Heck I installed one on my GSL-SE when the crack-prone stock oil cooler cracked and got really bad in only 100 miles. I threw a 20mm stretched beehive on to fit a 13B, which worked great and keeps temps low enough that my turbo, yes I said turbo, works fine! So if a turbo 13B can live with a beehive, then your stock 12A certainly can.

NLPerformance

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for you input. Yeah it definitely looks bent. Any ideas how to get that pesky banjo bolt? Looks like it's a 22mm

Carl

iTrader: (2)

Yes it is 22mm. I think I bought a 7/8" and widened it to 22mm. I had the same thing happen on a race car a few years ago. It was slightly tweaked and finally got a largish pinhole that emptied the oil pretty quickly. You may still be able to by a replacement tube from Mazda. Except that the beehive is in the way when you have to do clutch/transmission work, I found they were fine for cooling, even when racing with a stock port 12a.

Carl

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

23mm

JSmall

Get a cheapish spanner off ebay that fits Unusual place to burst really

NLPerformance

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, looks like I'll have to find place that has a 23mm wrench, my crescent doesn't let me get enough leverage. I looked for a 23mm at Homedepot, no luck. Thanks guys!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

not really, if you try to loosen the front fitting before the rear banjo it bends the line. it used to be fairly common, we stocked that line at the dealership in the 90's

NLPerformance

iTrader: (2)

Guess that's probably what happened.
I take it I should hand tighten it all and then torque the banjo and then the other bolt?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I never touch the banjo in the back. Only the 23mm front collar nut. You have to also have a 21mm wrench to hold the fitting in the front cover to keep it from spinning. Use it to torque against when you loosen the 23mm nut. I hope that makes sense because I don't know how else to describe it.

JSmall

Oh wow. New to me then!

NLPerformance

iTrader: (2)

Wait a sec...how am I supposed to remove the line without touching the banjo?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Oh I'm sorry, I thought you wanted to remove the entire beehive. But you're right, go ahead and remove the banjo as well. It is also 23mm.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

That's pretty impressive, never seen that before!

LongDuck

Just a quick observation, but that thing your finger is pointed at here:


Looks to be an additional ground that someone/you has installed, but you might not realize the engine mount is bolted to the aluminum front cover and wouldn't help to ground the important parts of the engine which might benefit from grounding. Might want to consider bolting the extra ground to the alternator bracket. Maybe someone here knows a better location,

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I used a two foot pre-made ground from the backside of the alternator bolt to the factory strut tower location. This way it ties directly into the battery ground.

NLPerformance

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, where exactly should I put it?
Before all of this, I was having low oil pressure, is there anywhere/anything I should check for leaks?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Im going to take a part a 12-A next week.. Wont have any use for a beehive. Lmk if youre interested.

kutukutu1

iTrader: (5)

Switch to a FMOC from a 2nd gen and get some AN lines from Racing beat with approriate adaptors.

NLPerformance

iTrader: (2)

Too late haha, already ordered the line!
Im lost as to where I should start digging for reasons of why I have no/low oil pressure. Would a small hole in that line cause it?