1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Beehive Oil Cooler Line Burst!

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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 05:43 PM
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Unhappy Beehive Oil Cooler Line Burst!

My oil line from my beehive just burst. Luckily I wasn't driving and heard it on startup. I have had a leak for a month or so now, it was very very slow and I couldn't trace it down. But now I guess I know where it was coming from.
Beehive Oil Cooler Line Burst!-iukngom.jpg
Beehive Oil Cooler Line Burst!-sg6d6og.jpg
Beehive Oil Cooler Line Burst!-djgwhb2.jpg
Do I have to get a line made? or do I just find a replacement and replace?
HOWEVER, if that does entail taking the beehive off and lots of other parts from that area, I might as well do the oil cooler I was planning to do later.

Is there anyone that could walk me through the steps or the like? Just a teen and I dont want to further mess it up.
Thanks,
Nick
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 06:41 PM
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I've never seen a steel hardline burst at only stock oil pressures. It's pretty much impossible until there is rust or mechaniocal issues (such as being bend by a previous owner/mechanic).

It looks kinda bent in the picture. Yeah, look for another line or another full beehive. Most people give them away when they go to a front mount air oil cooler.

Setting up a front mount oil cooler is involved but can be done. However I recommend another beehive for you, for right now. Heck I installed one on my GSL-SE when the crack-prone stock oil cooler cracked and got really bad in only 100 miles. I threw a 20mm stretched beehive on to fit a 13B, which worked great and keeps temps low enough that my turbo, yes I said turbo, works fine! So if a turbo 13B can live with a beehive, then your stock 12A certainly can.
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 03:10 PM
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Thanks for you input. Yeah it definitely looks bent. Any ideas how to get that pesky banjo bolt? Looks like it's a 22mm
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 03:54 PM
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Yes it is 22mm. I think I bought a 7/8" and widened it to 22mm. I had the same thing happen on a race car a few years ago. It was slightly tweaked and finally got a largish pinhole that emptied the oil pretty quickly. You may still be able to by a replacement tube from Mazda. Except that the beehive is in the way when you have to do clutch/transmission work, I found they were fine for cooling, even when racing with a stock port 12a.

Carl
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 05:00 PM
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23mm
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 07:03 PM
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Get a cheapish spanner off ebay that fits Unusual place to burst really
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 07:03 PM
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Hmmm, looks like I'll have to find place that has a 23mm wrench, my crescent doesn't let me get enough leverage. I looked for a 23mm at Homedepot, no luck. Thanks guys!
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 07:20 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by JSmall
Unusual place to burst really
not really, if you try to loosen the front fitting before the rear banjo it bends the line. it used to be fairly common, we stocked that line at the dealership in the 90's
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 10:11 PM
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Guess that's probably what happened.
I take it I should hand tighten it all and then torque the banjo and then the other bolt?
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 11:19 PM
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I never touch the banjo in the back. Only the 23mm front collar nut. You have to also have a 21mm wrench to hold the fitting in the front cover to keep it from spinning. Use it to torque against when you loosen the 23mm nut. I hope that makes sense because I don't know how else to describe it.
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
not really, if you try to loosen the front fitting before the rear banjo it bends the line. it used to be fairly common, we stocked that line at the dealership in the 90's
Oh wow. New to me then!
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
I never touch the banjo in the back. Only the 23mm front collar nut. You have to also have a 21mm wrench to hold the fitting in the front cover to keep it from spinning. Use it to torque against when you loosen the 23mm nut. I hope that makes sense because I don't know how else to describe it.
Wait a sec...how am I supposed to remove the line without touching the banjo?
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 12:40 PM
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Oh I'm sorry, I thought you wanted to remove the entire beehive. But you're right, go ahead and remove the banjo as well. It is also 23mm.
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 11:18 PM
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That's pretty impressive, never seen that before!
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 11:36 PM
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Just a quick observation, but that thing your finger is pointed at here:
Beehive Oil Cooler Line Burst!-sg6d6og.jpg

Looks to be an additional ground that someone/you has installed, but you might not realize the engine mount is bolted to the aluminum front cover and wouldn't help to ground the important parts of the engine which might benefit from grounding. Might want to consider bolting the extra ground to the alternator bracket. Maybe someone here knows a better location,
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 11:36 AM
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I used a two foot pre-made ground from the backside of the alternator bolt to the factory strut tower location. This way it ties directly into the battery ground.
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 06:35 PM
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Hmm, where exactly should I put it?
Before all of this, I was having low oil pressure, is there anywhere/anything I should check for leaks?
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 07:39 PM
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Im going to take a part a 12-A next week.. Wont have any use for a beehive. Lmk if youre interested.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 02:59 PM
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Switch to a FMOC from a 2nd gen and get some AN lines from Racing beat with approriate adaptors.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 05:54 PM
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Too late haha, already ordered the line!
Im lost as to where I should start digging for reasons of why I have no/low oil pressure. Would a small hole in that line cause it?
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