Auto to 5 spd.
#1
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Auto to 5 spd.
Alright, so I've done a lot of research on the swap, and have decided I want to go for it. These cars aren't meant for an auto tranny. I have an 84' GS, with the 4 spd auto (OD), so it is 4 inches longer than the 5 spd manual. I've compiled a needed parts list, and would appreciate if some people could add to what im missing, or correct anything I have thats wrong.
Old Parts:
1. Brake Pedal
2. Clutch Pedal
3. Drive shaft (manual, Post 83)
4. Flexible hydraulic line
5. Hard hydraulic line and firewall retainers
6. Master Cylinder Plunger
7. Release Fork
8. Shift boot + hardware
9. Manual Starter
10. Manual Transmission (post 83)
11. Shifter Assembly
12. Transmission wiring harness
13. Front Counterweight .....?
14. Pressure Plate
New Parts (or better to use as new)
1. Clutch Disc
2. Master Cylinder
3. Slave Cylinder with fork plunger and hose
4. Pilot Bearing
5. Pilot Bearing Seal
6. Release Bearing
Custom Fabrication:
1. 4" bracket for cross-member mounts
Any tips for the swap would be appreciated, as well as people knocking on auto trannys so I feel more motivated to do it.
Thanks,
Old Parts:
1. Brake Pedal
2. Clutch Pedal
3. Drive shaft (manual, Post 83)
4. Flexible hydraulic line
5. Hard hydraulic line and firewall retainers
6. Master Cylinder Plunger
7. Release Fork
8. Shift boot + hardware
9. Manual Starter
10. Manual Transmission (post 83)
11. Shifter Assembly
12. Transmission wiring harness
13. Front Counterweight .....?
14. Pressure Plate
New Parts (or better to use as new)
1. Clutch Disc
2. Master Cylinder
3. Slave Cylinder with fork plunger and hose
4. Pilot Bearing
5. Pilot Bearing Seal
6. Release Bearing
Custom Fabrication:
1. 4" bracket for cross-member mounts
Any tips for the swap would be appreciated, as well as people knocking on auto trannys so I feel more motivated to do it.
Thanks,
#4
rotary newbie
no car on the planet earth should be equipped with the useless piece on **** they call the automatic transmission when i want to stomp on the gas to fly by some old guy i wanna let her hit 7 grand. or go dump a gear and step on it when i feel the need.
hows that for motivation
essentials Beer and a bad set of hand tools to throw at the walls so you dont break the good stuff
hows that for motivation
essentials Beer and a bad set of hand tools to throw at the walls so you dont break the good stuff
#5
Resurrecting Gus
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You don't have to have 84-85 pedals. I'm in the middle of my swap and just finished putting 83 pedals into my 85. As long as you use the original pedal bracket from your 85 you'll be fine. The only thing that is different between the two years is the brackets that the pedals are mounted on. Just take the pedals off the bracket they are on and mount them onto your 84-85 pedal assembly bracket. It is very easy once you have them both out and sitting side by side. But the previous years of pedals WILL NOT fit if you don't put them onto your exisiting bracket.... trust me.. i found out the hard way....
#6
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Don't bother with a front counterweight, get a flywheel from the same year engine (or would 83-85 work?) and it's not an issue.
It's much easier to buy a lightweight steel flywheel, since you already have an automatic counterweight installed to bolt it to -- saves a LOT of work in getting that 54mm nut off. These run about $300 but are well worth it. The transmission can be from any 81-85 car, and you can use any driveshaft as long as you get the matching peice from the rear end.
It's much easier to buy a lightweight steel flywheel, since you already have an automatic counterweight installed to bolt it to -- saves a LOT of work in getting that 54mm nut off. These run about $300 but are well worth it. The transmission can be from any 81-85 car, and you can use any driveshaft as long as you get the matching peice from the rear end.
#7
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Originally Posted by bouis
It's much easier to buy a lightweight steel flywheel, since you already have an automatic counterweight installed to bolt it to -- saves a LOT of work in getting that 54mm nut off. These run about $300 but are well worth it. The transmission can be from any 81-85 car, and you can use any driveshaft as long as you get the matching peice from the rear end.
As for the release bearing, I have an idea as to where it goes, but no idea how to install it, or what it even looks like. Same goes for the release fork. Any help there is appreciated.
I have seen on other 7's where the Master cylinder is mounted, where does the slave cylinder go?
Wow...I have a lot of questions...
Thanks for bearing with me!
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#8
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
The auto flywheel is two parts, a counterweight and a flexplate. The counterweight is held to the e-shaft with the 54mm nut. Five or six 14mm bolts hold the flexplate to the counterweight. Aftermarket flywheels are two peice, a flywheel and a counterweight from an automatic...
The slave cylinder is bolted to the top of the transmission. The release bearing goes on the input shaft [just grease it good and slide it on], and the fork sits on the bearing and fits in through a hole in the top of the tranny. The pilot bearing can be inserted THROUGH the 54mm nut.
The slave cylinder is bolted to the top of the transmission. The release bearing goes on the input shaft [just grease it good and slide it on], and the fork sits on the bearing and fits in through a hole in the top of the tranny. The pilot bearing can be inserted THROUGH the 54mm nut.
Last edited by bouis; 08-11-04 at 08:02 PM.
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