Alignment
Alignment
Hey guys
I just got done getting the old 1980 ready and driving. I am having issues getting an alignment shop to align it since it is low and they say I need to get a shop with a drive up ramp... Does anyone have any advice on how to do this at home? I need to straighten out the steering wheel as well as it is about half a turn to the left when it should be straight.
Thanks
I just got done getting the old 1980 ready and driving. I am having issues getting an alignment shop to align it since it is low and they say I need to get a shop with a drive up ramp... Does anyone have any advice on how to do this at home? I need to straighten out the steering wheel as well as it is about half a turn to the left when it should be straight.
Thanks
I work at Toyota and we have an alignment rack that's flush with the ground and that raises once the car is set up. Its made by Hunter. Its a fantastic machine. I would personally try and find a place that has one.
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Tracks straight, no pulling left or right.
You if need camber/caster adjustment. You need a gauge. You can do everything else with string (making a square box around the car).
There are many youtube how to videos.
Toe Plates are just a little quicker. But take up more space to store when not in use.
I have even used the groves in the tires as a reference. But this dose not center the wheel.
Remember that your car must be sitting level and it helps if the surface is slippery so the front tires can turn when adjusted. Sand under the front tires works well.
You can get **** about it and use weights in the drivers seat too (like if you're doing corner weighting).
Also Caster then Camber and set back all need to be done before toe.
There are many youtube how to videos.
Toe Plates are just a little quicker. But take up more space to store when not in use.
I have even used the groves in the tires as a reference. But this dose not center the wheel.
Remember that your car must be sitting level and it helps if the surface is slippery so the front tires can turn when adjusted. Sand under the front tires works well.
You can get **** about it and use weights in the drivers seat too (like if you're doing corner weighting).
Also Caster then Camber and set back all need to be done before toe.
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Digital Level
I use a digital level for both camber and toe caster -- works great and costs about $40.
Camber: Set the level along the face of the wheel, touching at top and bottom (image). I use 1-2-3 blocks taped to the level to get good contact with the wheel face and avoid the fender. Subtract that reading from the one you get when it's laying on the floor.
Toe: Set the wheels to straight (as close as you can). Lay a long board across the rear of the car, a few feet behind the rear wheels. Pop out the laser and lay it across the wheel face, with the beam projecting rearward. Mark the beam location on the board at both sides. Note: When you flip the level to change sides, it cancels out any errors. Place the board the same distance in front of the wheels and repeat the procedure. Using a little trig, you can get a very accurate toe measurement.
. . . and then you can use it to hang pictures.
Camber: Set the level along the face of the wheel, touching at top and bottom (image). I use 1-2-3 blocks taped to the level to get good contact with the wheel face and avoid the fender. Subtract that reading from the one you get when it's laying on the floor.
Toe: Set the wheels to straight (as close as you can). Lay a long board across the rear of the car, a few feet behind the rear wheels. Pop out the laser and lay it across the wheel face, with the beam projecting rearward. Mark the beam location on the board at both sides. Note: When you flip the level to change sides, it cancels out any errors. Place the board the same distance in front of the wheels and repeat the procedure. Using a little trig, you can get a very accurate toe measurement.
. . . and then you can use it to hang pictures.
I use a digital level for both camber and toe caster -- works great and costs about $40.
Camber: Set the level along the face of the wheel, touching at top and bottom (image). I use 1-2-3 blocks taped to the level to get good contact with the wheel face and avoid the fender. Subtract that reading from the one you get when it's laying on the floor.
Toe: Set the wheels to straight (as close as you can). Lay a long board across the rear of the car, a few feet behind the rear wheels. Pop out the laser and lay it across the wheel face, with the beam projecting rearward. Mark the beam location on the board at both sides. Note: When you flip the level to change sides, it cancels out any errors. Place the board the same distance in front of the wheels and repeat the procedure. Using a little trig, you can get a very accurate toe measurement.
. . . and then you can use it to hang pictures.
Camber: Set the level along the face of the wheel, touching at top and bottom (image). I use 1-2-3 blocks taped to the level to get good contact with the wheel face and avoid the fender. Subtract that reading from the one you get when it's laying on the floor.
Toe: Set the wheels to straight (as close as you can). Lay a long board across the rear of the car, a few feet behind the rear wheels. Pop out the laser and lay it across the wheel face, with the beam projecting rearward. Mark the beam location on the board at both sides. Note: When you flip the level to change sides, it cancels out any errors. Place the board the same distance in front of the wheels and repeat the procedure. Using a little trig, you can get a very accurate toe measurement.
. . . and then you can use it to hang pictures.
I used this method to diagnose a bent rear axle housing that resulted in REAR wheel toe out.
Works well and is very accurate.
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