chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

Hi everyone, is there a steering wheel spacer on the market that will give me a few inches of extra room for my knees? I don't really want a new wheel, I'd just like it moved back toward me more.

Sh00bs

iTrader: (8)

w/o going aftermarket i dont believe it's possible well... anything is possible with enough money and determination. SO if it was me, and you had a spare steering column, you could cut the end off where the wheel bolts up, weld it into the end of your existing one and load it up with spacers until you get to the desired height and then tighten down a bolt on the new welded on steering column end - although i highly recommend not doing this.

with an aftermarket steering wheel the adapter is a good 3-4" spacer i have it on my car and then a quick release after that which adds another 3" or so. i know it sounds like a lot but my aftermarket wheel isnt concave, it's flat so it's just about 4" further out than oem if that.

thought about making custom brackets for the seat and making it go back further?


Check out this thread
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-gene...l-1gen-982479/

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the response Sh00bs,

I'm at the right distance from the pedals with the seat all the way back. Any further and I'll have to reach forward to steer, so first item is getting the wheel off the dash and closer to my torso.

I'm bummed I have to change the wheel but if I must, I must. What aftermarket wheels are available that look period appropriate? I'm not interested in some racy modern wheel.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

peejay did something like that. He should be along any time now and tell you what he did to move his stock steering wheel back.

peejay

I believe I have been summoned...

I took the plastic shroud off of the OE wheel, cut through the sheetmetal base, then used a section of tubing (actually galvanized water pipe - yes I degalvanized it) to stick it back about two inches. Opened up the world for legroom. Spent more time getting the nerve to do it than actually doing it.

The key is making super ultra extra sure that the wheel is still square to the shaft. I am really really picky about steering wheels being centered and square.

Cost: $2 for a 3" length of pipe, which I would like to say was 2" size.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like RB thickwall 2" mild tubing could work. Hey, I have some of that!

I have to move my seat all the way back in the GLC so the pedals are comfy, but then the steering wheel is too far away from me. Considering my options at this point. I'm fine in an FB though. The GLC is a small car.

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

How did you attach this pipe? Welding? Do you have any photos? I'm having trouble visualizing.

peejay

Oh, of course I welded it

I don't have pictures because I did not have a digital camera at the time. Maybe 2006 or 2007.

Note that 2" NPT is not 2" diameter in any meaningful way. And I'm probably remembering wrong. For sure, it was a pipe nipple.

Here's the closest thing I have to a picture:



I left about 1/2-3/4" of tab on the steering wheel itself. When you get the plastic cover/horn contactor out of the way, you'll see that the steering wheel is VERY simple. Just a folded over piece of Dixie Cup like sheetmetal welded to the wheel face. Water pipe was about three times as beefy as was necessary And I do stress that I used galvanized, because galvanized is steel and black pipe is iron, which isn't readily weldable by a MIG-booger like me. Lots of time on the wire wheel and carb cleaner removing the galvanize... then welding while holding my breath until I can get out of the area and take a breath because you can never get it all. I've never had a problem welding galvanized that way! *twitch*

Sh00bs

iTrader: (8)

^ this was essentially what i was saying in my first post, i wouldnt recommend it. but seeing as how someone Has done it with success i say go for it!

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

Did you get the plastic shroud to go back on afterward?

peejay

See it in the picture?

It just screws to the very end. No problem.