Poor man's alignment: can it be done?
#26
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The thrust (4 wheel) alignment you mentioned is done with the string, the string is aligned to rear wheels first, then the front wheels (with toe in) to the string.
#27
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As far as toe in goes (the only adjustment normally made on an FB) I've had better luck doing it myself using the string method than I have had taking it to an alignment shop and paying them the $50+ to hook it up to one of their machines.
Last time I took it to a shop, it came back with the same left pull bias it had when it went in. So I spent some time the next Saturday morning with the strings and did a really careful job of getting it just right - this can be a bit tricky, the string method is extremely sensitive and you need to watch for little things, like wobbly or unmatched wheels and tires, as noted in some of the posts above.
But if you have a decent set of wheels and tires and a reasonably stock suspension set up, the string method can give you a perfect toe in alignment when done carefully. I've used it for all four of my 84/85 GSL's over the last ten years and it's always worked great, while saving me money and time that would have otherwise gone to a shop and their computer assisted machines.
Over the years I've also used the string method on my 1970 VW bug, my '78 MGB, some volvo sedans and our '92 Jeep Wrangler - it works fine on all these (rear wheel drive) models.
And of course there's that priceless satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Here's some photos of the jeep and my current GSL, the Silver One, getting their recent toe in adjustments using the string method:
And here's the computer scan for the Silver One after I did my string alignment and had a new set of Kumho's put on - they did not have to make any toe-in adjustments with the new tires:
Last time I took it to a shop, it came back with the same left pull bias it had when it went in. So I spent some time the next Saturday morning with the strings and did a really careful job of getting it just right - this can be a bit tricky, the string method is extremely sensitive and you need to watch for little things, like wobbly or unmatched wheels and tires, as noted in some of the posts above.
But if you have a decent set of wheels and tires and a reasonably stock suspension set up, the string method can give you a perfect toe in alignment when done carefully. I've used it for all four of my 84/85 GSL's over the last ten years and it's always worked great, while saving me money and time that would have otherwise gone to a shop and their computer assisted machines.
Over the years I've also used the string method on my 1970 VW bug, my '78 MGB, some volvo sedans and our '92 Jeep Wrangler - it works fine on all these (rear wheel drive) models.
And of course there's that priceless satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Here's some photos of the jeep and my current GSL, the Silver One, getting their recent toe in adjustments using the string method:
And here's the computer scan for the Silver One after I did my string alignment and had a new set of Kumho's put on - they did not have to make any toe-in adjustments with the new tires:
#28
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If you have worn tie rod ends, ball joints, bad bushings etc, etc, then you are wasting your time trying to do a suspension alignment. Anything that is worn out loose and lets the alignment move around must be replaced before trying to do a suspension alignment.
#30
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string method
like ray green was saying, it works great on rear wheel drive vehicles with solid axles, so the only thing about the string method is you can't set the front toe to the rear thrust angle like you can on a modern 4 wheel alignment machine. dont let me try to get ya'll wrong it works, and this is the method that i will be using since the shop i work at doesn't allow their techs to work on our own cars when we have down time. which sucks, we still have to pay and we can't work on our own car we have to let another tech do it. which is so freaking dumb if you ask me.
#31
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alignment
also, the right height must be in spec, with no sagging springs/uneven ride height as it changes camber and caster. this is also true with tire air pressure. also worth mentioning Mazda has a TSB I was reading at work about aligning RX7's & 929s, they gave you different specs and tolerances for caster depending on the level of fuel in the tank as any weight in the rear would cause you to have a difference in frame angle which proportinately effects caster. each degree of pos. or neg. frame angle changes caster +/- one degree. this also holds true with weight differences side to side, except camber is the angle effected in that case. make's for an awkard discussion with customers experiencing a pull you cant figure out, because all their alignment angles look good. leaves you scratching your head till his wife comes to pick him up so he can leave it with you to figure out and you notice she's a whole-lot-a-woman. which you would never suspect since its always the 5'4" 125 lb. guys who date the 350 pounders.......
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