The Rat

Ok, so I'm looking to buy a 1985 RX-7...I've found one at a price that suits me (I have 5 vehicles at the moment and am paying for parking on each one, 2 will be sold soon, anyway). Only problem I'm having is that it has 205k miles on it and I don't know a thing about the reliability of these cars. I am VERY mechanically inclined so if something goes on it I could fix it with the right tools/info (this seems to be a good resource). I rebuilt my CJ7 from the ground up without a manual. Either way, I was wondering if anyone could help me out with what to expect if I were to buy it. I want to know the good, the bad, and the really bad about it. Like I said, I will probably be able to fix whatever goes wrong, I just don't have a ton of time to waste trying to rebuild a transmission or swapping an engine because they die like clockwork around xxx miles. So inform me people. And thanks in advance.

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

Rotaries have been known to live past 200,000 miles with routine maintance. Although I would have to reccomend a rebuild at this point, if you are using it as a DD and will be taking care of it you may not need to. You will have to change the oil a little more often, but that is true of any high mileage car.

Rotaries tend to suffer from carbon buildup, although there are many solutions to get rid of it. Even if you have carbon lockup it is fairly easy to unseize the engine.

Also do you know what model designation it has? GS, GSL, GSL-SE? because if you know we can better aid you. Rotaries are pretty tough engines, I have never seen any major mechanical failure. Although Im not going to tell you it never happens, but you usually under normal circumstances have to try pretty hard to blow it up.

But as with any older car, especially one you have no idea the maintanence history of, expect problems. If you dont then you will be surprised when they begin to appear. The Rx-7 is a unique car, and we who own them are a unique breed. Most of us own a beater car, just in case. Because you cant drive an Rx, without "driving". Just some things to keep in mind. Im sure someone can answer this better than I.
Chris

capt murph

Run away

Rotary Weasel

The Rat

Not an incredibly helpful comment.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

lol looks like my mom

JustDoug

My 1st had well over 200k when I bought it. It is (still) a daily driver, which means I don't tend to push it too hard...at least not all of the time. There is this stretch of Mill Drive (on my way to work) with a series of sharp turns that I simply can't help but nail... and I do enjoy the occasional game of cat-n-mouse on the Interstate...but I digress.

My advice is to buy the nicest physical specimen you can! Chances are that you (like the rest of us) will rebuild/modify your engine anyway! Take a look at some of the threads here pertaining to bolt-on performance, and read up on "porting" as well. These little rotaries are capable of generating some serious power!

Expect to spend a fair amount of time getting to know her! Obviously, there will be all of the familiar wear-n-tear items to deal with- it's a 20-yr old car with 200k miles on it. The interesting/challenging part is learning a new set of symptoms, and respective cures. DO A COMPLETE TUNE-UP! Change EVERYTHING...plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ALL OF THE FILTERS, etc, etc, etc... You will find literally all of the info you need here, so search the forum and TAKE NOTES!

kenn_chan

No,

I kinda second Murph on that comment. with those kind of miles if it isn't like 50~200 dollaars than run away. there are plenty of lower mileage cars running around. that can be had for a reasonable price.

at that point rat, you will need a rebuild, but once rebuilt the thing should be good for about 200k miles if you rebuild it correctly.

at 200k the apex seals are getting kind of thin, and deffinitely need to be swapped, along with housings lapped, new side seals, corner seals, soft seals etc.

hence the run away being a good idea unless it is very cheap, and the body is great.

look at it this way:

good body with 0~little rust is maybe 1000.00, but engine completely rebuilt replacing all that needs to be changed, (you doing labor), will set you back about 2000 ish.

of the two the body is more important though as rebuilding an engine is easy, where as rebuilding a rotted out body is a PITA ..... ask Murph (sorry murph couldn't resist.)

kenn

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

I concur with Kenn, but if it is very cheap and you are prepared to buy or build a fresh motor, go for it, note my last 3 GSLs have cost me $275, $350 and $375 all in running shape, one is excellent in every dimension.

capt murph

Ok more time to write Rat boy, so I'll try to be more constructive.
Thanks to the other members that stated the obvious. AND, if you have to PAY FOR PARKING, I assumed that you do not have a good place to work on it either. But since you are mechanically talented and built your CJ, maybe that was a bad assumption.
It will need work. it's a Jeep thing. Oh wait , wrong forum. ( I just sold my old 82 J10).


Being serious, do a search on bin rust and see the problem these cars can develop. It is not that easy to detect in a first glance for the uninformed. I was uninformed and Kenn and others helped me with good advice on how to make a repair. BUT it was indeed a PITA and the price I paid would have been much different if I had known (800).
Provide some more specific info on the car after you inspect. All future advice will be FREE.
Just kidding about your name Rat boy.

Rotary Weasel

kenn_chan

That was quick, he already got a new nickname

kenn

sung to the tune of batman "Rat Boy, da da da da dadadada Rat Boy, etc eetc.

cheers

The Rat

So probably a no-go on it at 700-750? The interior is great, and minus the paint fading the body is in good shape (underneath is showing a little rust...but this is NE, no avoiding it), and the only engine issue is that it smoked a little on start up but was fine after about a minute. This is the cheapest I've found around here...if anyone knows of anything else in the area please let me know.

Rotary Weasel

which model of the 7 is it btw?
talk em down to $500-600 range
in the end if you want it get it..then you can blame yourself, or congratulate
only opinions offered here

The Rat

Is there a way to tell from looking at it? I have some pictures but none of the rear drivers side.









I think I might be able to talk him down to the 500-600 range, when I talked to him today it didn't seem that he had recieved too many calls (if any) about it.

Alex-7

Looks nice.

Hades12

Not bad. Looks like the front end has been put on some time or another.

Rogue_Wulff

Looks like that is a GS or GSL. Hard to really know without the pic showing the badge on the drivers rear corner. Sunroof and power windows generally point towards GSL.
12a carbed engine. 200K on it generally indicates it either has been rebuilt, or will soon need it. Minor smoking on start up is nothing to worry about, since you said it quit pretty quick. This is fairly common, and some would even call it normal.
Look it over, and see if there is much rust. If so, walk away. Rust will kill these cars in a hurry, due to the unibody design. Minor surface rust can be treated, rust-through requires extensive work.
If the body looks pretty sound, look under the hood closely. A clean engine is a good sign the car has been maintained well, and could indicate whether the engine has been rebuilt.

The Rat

Thanks for the info. Now, as far as rebuilding...how much would it cost to get it done at a shop (If it is far too cold for me to do it outside then my last resort is a shop). Just curious in case it hasn't been rebuilt or needs one eventually, because if it is a ton I might just pass on the 205k mile one and wait for a lower mileage one to come along. I assume someone here has busted their engine and will know.

I might also pass if when I do a full inspection and I find excessive rust, because after spending 3 1/2 months working on that CJ the last thing I want to deal with is excessive rust (I did a complete frame-off and sanded and Herculined the frame, underbody, floors, firewall, and inner fenders...not to mention welding in new floors).

I'll know on Thursday when I finally have a full day off to check it out.

The Rat

Also forgot to mention how upset I was when he told me that he had bought it for his son, but his son didn't want it and instead got an Accord (same story with the CJ, guy bought it for his son and was gonna restore it but his son wanted a TJ instead...I'm a kid and I'm sickened by other kids).

3times

looks like a good find. Bring some screw drivers and remove the rear storage hatches behind the seats... if there is rust(which there usually is) try to bring the price down

fcdrifter13

Kevin does a great job on rebuilds and its fairly chep and he can port the motor some if you like....the base rebuild is $1000 here is the website for more info for him
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/

The rust issue is a big problem for these cars....if you find one with less rust but a crappy motor sometimes its best to buy that car as to not deal with the rust....lets face it almost all FBs are gonna need a rebuild sooner or later so pic up the car with less rust and save yourself the headache

As far as rebuilding the motor outside..There are to many small parts to lose and I wouldnt recomend it. The motor is small enough and light enough to rebuild inside then take outside to put in the car(done this a couple of times) if you can stand a lil mess. Hey you gotta do what you gotta do.

Just read up on that site and then think about it....think some more do more reaseach and then by a car that is within your capabilities and range.

The Rat

I keep hearing about doing a compression test to check the engine...what do I need to do this test and what should I be looking for? I found out I'm actually going to know on Saturday because I have work on Thursday now (dumb!). Thanks again for any and all info.

fcdrifter13

Someone correct me if I am wrong here.....only done a couple comp test

You can use a copmpression tester from advance Auto, they can rent it out to you for like 15$ at least the one around here does.

Pull the fuse that goes to the fuel pump
put the compression tester in the top spark plug hole(it is top right)
and crank over the egine
the needle should go to (in my case it did) about 90psi
it should do this 3 times in a row (one time for each face of the rotor)
do this again on the front rotor

if the results are lower then you have low compression(duh)
but each bounce of the needle should be about the same

Like I said Ive only done it a couple of times and may have missed something
there is probably a writeup in the Archive or you could try searching for how everybody else does it.