1982 FB Wipers, Warning lights and buzzers
07-05-18, 05:42 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
1982 FB Wipers, Warning lights and buzzers
Hello all 
Just looking for some help with my electrical headache I am experiencing in my 1982 RX7 Fb.
Currently my wipers only work on the fastest setting and do not return to home/default place.
Cleaned the contacts in the lever/switch and has not made a difference
Also I do not have any warning about door open, lights on or seat belt warnings.
Would a faulty CPU be responsible for this?
Looking forward to your replies
Mike
Just looking for some help with my electrical headache I am experiencing in my 1982 RX7 Fb.
Currently my wipers only work on the fastest setting and do not return to home/default place.
Cleaned the contacts in the lever/switch and has not made a difference
Also I do not have any warning about door open, lights on or seat belt warnings.
Would a faulty CPU be responsible for this?
Looking forward to your replies
Mike
07-12-18, 11:19 AM
#3
i have never experienced any of these issues so i don't know how much help i can be. first off, check this site for manuals and wiring diagrams that may be of some help. Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals.
i would check the wiper switch, contacts may need some cleaning. i've had to do this with the headlight switch due to them either only working on high, or only working on low. try looking into the wiper motor too. there's contacts in the gearing for the "park" position. as for the warning lights/buzzers, could be just a bad fuse. this wouldn't really be an issue for me as i really don't need such things to tell me to close the door, turn off the lights, or put on my seat belt. good luck figuring it all out.
i would check the wiper switch, contacts may need some cleaning. i've had to do this with the headlight switch due to them either only working on high, or only working on low. try looking into the wiper motor too. there's contacts in the gearing for the "park" position. as for the warning lights/buzzers, could be just a bad fuse. this wouldn't really be an issue for me as i really don't need such things to tell me to close the door, turn off the lights, or put on my seat belt. good luck figuring it all out.
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Michael Ralph (08-06-18)
07-13-18, 09:54 AM
#4
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Take a look at the wiring diagram Michael mentioned. It could be a bad ground on the dash console. Its a biotch to get to but its a single small screw with a black wire going to it that you can see when upside down under the steering wheel looking up at the bottom of the dash just above the back of the console. Also make sure your check and cut relay on the drive side fender (near the clutch master) is plugged in and working as well because it has something to do with some of this as well.
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Michael Ralph (08-06-18)
07-28-18, 03:39 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hi all just to give an update,
ive found I was missing the relay for the warning lights however plugging it in hasn’t fixed it however the relay does click so going to take out the dash tomorrow
replaced my wiper motor and has not fixed any issues. I’ve tried another cpu (definitely a working one this time) and not working either. Cleaned the contacts for the motor and I have cleaned the switch contacts also and to no avail
going to try behind dash to find broken cables or lights
any other solutions would be a great start
cheers guys
ive found I was missing the relay for the warning lights however plugging it in hasn’t fixed it however the relay does click so going to take out the dash tomorrow
replaced my wiper motor and has not fixed any issues. I’ve tried another cpu (definitely a working one this time) and not working either. Cleaned the contacts for the motor and I have cleaned the switch contacts also and to no avail
going to try behind dash to find broken cables or lights
any other solutions would be a great start
cheers guys
08-06-18, 01:44 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Take a look at the wiring diagram Michael mentioned. It could be a bad ground on the dash console. Its a biotch to get to but its a single small screw with a black wire going to it that you can see when upside down under the steering wheel looking up at the bottom of the dash just above the back of the console. Also make sure your check and cut relay on the drive side fender (near the clutch master) is plugged in and working as well because it has something to do with some of this as well.
Turns out i was missing the check relay, plugged that in and no luck. Has anyone got a photo of the other relays meant to be there?
Fixed my wipers problem, someone had decided to cut into them and not repair them
Only issues left is the warning lights on ignition and the door chimes and such
All the warning light bulbs are fine as ive had the cluster out and checked.
Thanks in advance for replies
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08-06-18, 03:48 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
08-06-18, 06:32 PM
#9
ancient wizard...
Is the alternator charging the battery,what does voltmeter say? Idiot light function ... when ignition key is turned to run position(position it is in while car is running),voltage is fed through a bus to one side of each of the warning lights. The ground side of that circuit is supplied by the L terminal on back of alternator. Key on,engine not running(alternator not turning) the L terminal is grounded which completes the circuit for ALL idiot lights-except for the seat belt warning light.
So when you turn the key to on all idiot lights illuminate,this is called the light check function. Once the engine is running,alternator turning and producing electricity,ALL the lights go out as the L terminal in alternator is energized=no more ground to complete warning light(s) circuit.
Each warning light has an individual ground supplied to it by its particular switch/sensor.
The seat belt warning light is illuminated thru a timer that grounds for approx. 5 seconds and light is turned off as timer times out. So now you know how it works...
Because ALL the warning lights are inop at key on,the common denominator likely is circuit ground not being completed at/from alternator or alternator is defective.
Look closely at back of alternator housing and you will see an L and an S cast into housing next to their respective wire position in connector.
Disconnect field connector from back of alternator(two wire plug),use a multimeter grounded to battery negative terminal,turn key on and probe back of connector cavities,both will have voltage showing The R or S(stator) depending on year will have battery voltage showing.
The L terminal will have slightly less. Use a piece of wire and ground the L terminal in removed connector and look at all the warning lights on dash,they should all be on.If on problem likely in alternator/regulator. If they aren't and there's no voltage when tested key on at L terminal then need to trace that circuit from that point back to instrument cluster. I can't recall for sure but the two wires in the field connector are white/black tracer and black/white tracer. I THINK the black/white is the L terminal wire.
Does the dome light work? On/off when you open/close door?
Test up to this point and post back results,will look in later and try to direct you where to go next depending on what you find.
Look at back of alternator where field connector plugs in and you will see a L and an S cast in housing next to their respective wire positions in connector to help you identify for certain whih is which.
So when you turn the key to on all idiot lights illuminate,this is called the light check function. Once the engine is running,alternator turning and producing electricity,ALL the lights go out as the L terminal in alternator is energized=no more ground to complete warning light(s) circuit.
Each warning light has an individual ground supplied to it by its particular switch/sensor.
The seat belt warning light is illuminated thru a timer that grounds for approx. 5 seconds and light is turned off as timer times out. So now you know how it works...
Because ALL the warning lights are inop at key on,the common denominator likely is circuit ground not being completed at/from alternator or alternator is defective.
Look closely at back of alternator housing and you will see an L and an S cast into housing next to their respective wire position in connector.
Disconnect field connector from back of alternator(two wire plug),use a multimeter grounded to battery negative terminal,turn key on and probe back of connector cavities,both will have voltage showing The R or S(stator) depending on year will have battery voltage showing.
The L terminal will have slightly less. Use a piece of wire and ground the L terminal in removed connector and look at all the warning lights on dash,they should all be on.If on problem likely in alternator/regulator. If they aren't and there's no voltage when tested key on at L terminal then need to trace that circuit from that point back to instrument cluster. I can't recall for sure but the two wires in the field connector are white/black tracer and black/white tracer. I THINK the black/white is the L terminal wire.
Does the dome light work? On/off when you open/close door?
Test up to this point and post back results,will look in later and try to direct you where to go next depending on what you find.
Look at back of alternator where field connector plugs in and you will see a L and an S cast in housing next to their respective wire positions in connector to help you identify for certain whih is which.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 08-06-18 at 06:38 PM. Reason: spelling
08-08-18, 03:05 AM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Is the alternator charging the battery,what does voltmeter say? Idiot light function ... when ignition key is turned to run position(position it is in while car is running),voltage is fed through a bus to one side of each of the warning lights. The ground side of that circuit is supplied by the L terminal on back of alternator. Key on,engine not running(alternator not turning) the L terminal is grounded which completes the circuit for ALL idiot lights-except for the seat belt warning light.
So when you turn the key to on all idiot lights illuminate,this is called the light check function. Once the engine is running,alternator turning and producing electricity,ALL the lights go out as the L terminal in alternator is energized=no more ground to complete warning light(s) circuit.
Each warning light has an individual ground supplied to it by its particular switch/sensor.
The seat belt warning light is illuminated thru a timer that grounds for approx. 5 seconds and light is turned off as timer times out. So now you know how it works...
Because ALL the warning lights are inop at key on,the common denominator likely is circuit ground not being completed at/from alternator or alternator is defective.
Look closely at back of alternator housing and you will see an L and an S cast into housing next to their respective wire position in connector.
Disconnect field connector from back of alternator(two wire plug),use a multimeter grounded to battery negative terminal,turn key on and probe back of connector cavities,both will have voltage showing The R or S(stator) depending on year will have battery voltage showing.
The L terminal will have slightly less. Use a piece of wire and ground the L terminal in removed connector and look at all the warning lights on dash,they should all be on.If on problem likely in alternator/regulator. If they aren't and there's no voltage when tested key on at L terminal then need to trace that circuit from that point back to instrument cluster. I can't recall for sure but the two wires in the field connector are white/black tracer and black/white tracer. I THINK the black/white is the L terminal wire.
Does the dome light work? On/off when you open/close door?
Test up to this point and post back results,will look in later and try to direct you where to go next depending on what you find.
Look at back of alternator where field connector plugs in and you will see a L and an S cast in housing next to their respective wire positions in connector to help you identify for certain whih is which.
So when you turn the key to on all idiot lights illuminate,this is called the light check function. Once the engine is running,alternator turning and producing electricity,ALL the lights go out as the L terminal in alternator is energized=no more ground to complete warning light(s) circuit.
Each warning light has an individual ground supplied to it by its particular switch/sensor.
The seat belt warning light is illuminated thru a timer that grounds for approx. 5 seconds and light is turned off as timer times out. So now you know how it works...
Because ALL the warning lights are inop at key on,the common denominator likely is circuit ground not being completed at/from alternator or alternator is defective.
Look closely at back of alternator housing and you will see an L and an S cast into housing next to their respective wire position in connector.
Disconnect field connector from back of alternator(two wire plug),use a multimeter grounded to battery negative terminal,turn key on and probe back of connector cavities,both will have voltage showing The R or S(stator) depending on year will have battery voltage showing.
The L terminal will have slightly less. Use a piece of wire and ground the L terminal in removed connector and look at all the warning lights on dash,they should all be on.If on problem likely in alternator/regulator. If they aren't and there's no voltage when tested key on at L terminal then need to trace that circuit from that point back to instrument cluster. I can't recall for sure but the two wires in the field connector are white/black tracer and black/white tracer. I THINK the black/white is the L terminal wire.
Does the dome light work? On/off when you open/close door?
Test up to this point and post back results,will look in later and try to direct you where to go next depending on what you find.
Look at back of alternator where field connector plugs in and you will see a L and an S cast in housing next to their respective wire positions in connector to help you identify for certain whih is which.
dome lights don’t work no,
thank you!
08-08-18, 10:58 AM
#11
ancient wizard...
Does the dome light work if switched on manually?Does it work if passenger door is opened? If not,CAREFULLY remove lens and check bulb,check for power and ground with test light/multimeter on each bulb contact. Results? Does cig.lighter have power?
Have you checked all underdash fuses with test light/multimeter?
Have you checked all underdash fuses with test light/multimeter?
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 08-08-18 at 11:00 AM.
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