1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

12a no compression

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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 04:06 PM
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12a no compression

Hey all,
My baby has a dead rotor. No compression on number 2. I towed it home and havn't run it since the problem. Any opinions or thoughts on to how bad off my rotor housing may be? What is the norm when something like this happens?
I was accelerating onto the interstate in my 84 with the 12a, and it went poof. It limped the last 3 miles on 1 rotor to work. Towed it home. 12a housings are so hard to come by, I was wondering your opinions on the condition of the housing and suggestions on seals and such?
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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From: Eugene OR.
Here is a picture of my wounded 7
Attached Thumbnails 12a no compression-0129091741.jpg  
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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DivinDriver's Avatar
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Three miles with broken seals probably means don't expect too much.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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Am I correct in assuming they rattled around in there and banged sh_t up?
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Negative. They didn't rattle. They got repeatedly beat to hell between the rotor and housing along the face of the rotor and the apex. They likely also cracked the next apex seal inline and dislodged it, until all 3 finally exited the premises. Your irons might have survived, though that's unlikely as well. 3 miles would have done a lot of damage. Expect to have lost a housing and rotor -maybe you'll be lucky with the irons.

When you get it apart, degrease the housing and put it on your mantle. They make great bookends, too.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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Argh! Honestly the last thing I need are more book ends. lol. OK, so next step is tear it apart and inspect the irons right? Then what? I have looked around and really can't seem to find a whole lot of decent 12a's or parts for them. Would I really be better doing the 13b changeover? With the right "doner" car I could get most of what is needed right? If a yard would have a 87 or 88 with the 13b, would I be better off attempting this type of a swap? I have seen some threads where it is mentioned what is needed, (GSL-SE oil pan, front housing ect) but honestly, would this be a better way to go? I apparently have a lot of down time ahead with this 12a, so how cool would it be to put a more common 13b in her? Zoom zoom?
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Ideally, if your irons are ok, then grab a 13B, use the rotors, housings and e-shaft with your 12A irons for a little Frankenstein action. The 4 port 12A irons have more material that can be ported, so you can go as big as you want there. You up your displacement, which will net you more torque and some more power, and you can port it while your in there. Get the Re-Speed rack and pinion kit and mounting won't be an issue. Of course finding the right carb manifold might be difficult, depending on what your running. You could always go with EFI as well. The possibilities are endless after your **** blows up. After you asses the damage check the classifieds here and call your local rotary shops, they usually have some parts lying around.

Good Luck
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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To use the 12A irons, you need 85 or older housings. They are getting harder to find too. If you can find a GSL-SE engine, you'll have everything you need exept intake/carb, or you can keep it FI with the SE engine and intake, wiring, ecu, fuel mods, yada yada yada...
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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Awesome advice! Thanks to all, including RX-7Doctor! I will keep you all posted and try and post some pics. Won't be easy tho, bought a house and no extra cash right now. Stuck driving my gas guzzlin piston pumpin truck. (chev 350 running a carb, 8mpg if lucky) Can't wait to get my RX back on the road. Sure love that car!
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