12A coolant leak..what are my options?
#1
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12A coolant leak..what are my options?
I recently picked up an 85 GSL with a 12a that was fully restored, everything mechanically and cosmetically is mint! except.....its tough to start when its cold, and it has a hard time holding an idle if I let off the throttle quickly... also, I noticed when I revved it up the other day, white smoke out of the exhaust.. you know what that means! Coolant in the combustion chamber.. I see that the front of the block is wet between the front rotor housing and the front housing plate. I don't know where to go from here, even though its consuming coolant, it runs amazing and doesnt skip a beat when it's warm. What do my fellow rotary heads recommend? any input would be much appreciated... thanks!
#2
HeyHeyHey..Its the Goose
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I don't know your level of mechanical inclination, but re-build it. Rather than coating your water jacket and radiator with a thick paste that will inhibit heat transfer.
A blown coolent seal is WAY eazier to rebuild than a blown apex seal on a non-running engine.
This is my personal oppinion.
EDIT: is this your DD or is it just a project/fun weekend car?
A blown coolent seal is WAY eazier to rebuild than a blown apex seal on a non-running engine.
This is my personal oppinion.
EDIT: is this your DD or is it just a project/fun weekend car?
#3
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
aluma seal worked for me (2013). It is silver and comes in a clear bottle. The other stuff, I think prestone gummed up my radiator and fixed the leak in 1996. Ya, I know this because after I replaced the radiator, the over heating was gone.
#4
RX HVN
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Yep - sounds like Classic water seal gone. The meter is running on your engine's life if you keep driving it...
Seal kit is about a $100 assuming everything else inside is good (apex, oil seals...). HIGHLY recommend you pick up Mazdatrix 13b rebuild video. best $30 you will spend on your rotor-motor. Get it BEFORE you start so you know what your in for. Actually pretty straight forward to rebuild these...
Sorry man -
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Seal kit is about a $100 assuming everything else inside is good (apex, oil seals...). HIGHLY recommend you pick up Mazdatrix 13b rebuild video. best $30 you will spend on your rotor-motor. Get it BEFORE you start so you know what your in for. Actually pretty straight forward to rebuild these...
Sorry man -
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#5
Lapping = Fapping
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Don't trust magic potions. They basically suck. Oh sure they will get you by for a little while, but like Qindao said they do hurt cooling. I never use them.
The gasket set is like 118.99 but you will need more parts, and the video could be a good way to learn. I've never seen it though.
The gasket set is like 118.99 but you will need more parts, and the video could be a good way to learn. I've never seen it though.
#7
rotary sensei
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Have the engine rebuilt, the quicker the better. If you decide to do it drain the coolant and pour some oil down the intake and turn the engine over by hand. This will keep the rotors from rusting and the engine from filling up with coolant and ruining it while it sits.
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#8
Waffles - hmmm good
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AlumaSeal may get you many extra miles and time to get a new engine together on budget.
I recently used it in my 80 GS with the original engine and it made a difference. It won't fix
anything but it may seal those seals for a bit longer.
I recently used it in my 80 GS with the original engine and it made a difference. It won't fix
anything but it may seal those seals for a bit longer.
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