What did you do to your FB today?
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 42
From: Cambridge, Minnesota
Was a gang of angry drill bits from the projects against one box from the city, he didn't stand a chance 
Bet it gets better air flow though!
From the build thread:
Well, here it is. 4 hours of video editing for 4 minutes of video.
There will be more videos in the future, I guarantee that. I really enjoy using the editing software and it has been a blast comparing the two cars (I say two because they are separate now, a 12a FB and a 13bt FB using the same chassis).
Enjoy
Bet it gets better air flow though!From the build thread:
Well, here it is. 4 hours of video editing for 4 minutes of video.
There will be more videos in the future, I guarantee that. I really enjoy using the editing software and it has been a blast comparing the two cars (I say two because they are separate now, a 12a FB and a 13bt FB using the same chassis).
Enjoy
Well after all the mechanics; full RB exhaust, k&n, injectors cleaned, a/c at 36, new calipers and rotors all around, paint is going to have to wail till tax returns so I put my new side moldings on ( yes I will have to strip them back off) but they compliment the 7's lines so well, I think I have that 80's look I love. Yes those are original louvers, love or hate them, I have bronze glass all around and don't want to tint them, and the louvers make a world of difference in south fl heat. Only thing I contemplating is doing the stock wheels black.
Found this on fl cl looks good on the black, but I think would look better on my white SE minus the red.
By the way they are only asking 4k for the SE
Found this on fl cl looks good on the black, but I think would look better on my white SE minus the red.
By the way they are only asking 4k for the SE
Well after all the mechanics; full RB exhaust, k&n, injectors cleaned, a/c at 36, new calipers and rotors all around, paint is going to have to wail till tax returns so I put my new side moldings on ( yes I will have to strip them back off) but they compliment the 7's lines so well, I think I have that 80's look I love. Yes those are original louvers, love or hate them, I have bronze glass all around and don't want to tint them, and the louvers make a world of difference in south
fl heat. Only thing I contemplating is doing the stock wheels black.
Found this on fl cl looks good on the black, but I think would look better on my white SE minus the red.
By the way they are only asking 4k for the SE
fl heat. Only thing I contemplating is doing the stock wheels black.
Found this on fl cl looks good on the black, but I think would look better on my white SE minus the red.
By the way they are only asking 4k for the SE
The ironic thing is that the point of that air box is to isolate the intake from the heat inside the engine compartment in an effort to avoid hp-killing heat soak. The PO actually hurt performance by drilling those holes. An isolated cold air intake would be ideal in our cars. Not easy to do, but doable. Mariah Motorsports makes a vented headlight cover for this purpose.
On Sunday evening, my friend and I took the FB out and did some troubleshooting of a scraping sound I heard coming from the rear of the car. I determined it was the rear passenger side caliper that was making the noise. Only when going in reverse and usually when turning the wheels. Weird. I'll have to take it apart and see what's up. Maybe one of the anti rattle springs came undone. I'll do this later this week.
We also took it out for a joyride (going forward, not in reverse). The handling has truly been transformed! I can't wait to get this thing out on the next auto-x track event.
Later that eve, I started putting the rest of my interior back in. Got the center carpets back in and one of the rear storage bins (the one that was still intact).
This morning I repaired the broken lid hinges of the other storage bin with Gorilla Tape. It sounds ghetto, but the repair is invisible, and I dare say, stronger than the original hinge. The lid has screws on the inside that holds the broken off portion of the hinge. I took that part out, put gorilla tape on it, screwed it back together, and taped the other side to the storage bin. Installed, you can't tell that the bin lid is held on by tape.
Also battened down some wiring in the back of the car to quiet it down a bit.
I still need to put in the center armrest, seats, and the rear interior, but before I do that, I want to remove the rear bumper and see if I can do anything about the distorted bumper skin. Probably not much I can do, but I at least want to have a look at it.
fm
On Sunday evening, my friend and I took the FB out and did some troubleshooting of a scraping sound I heard coming from the rear of the car. I determined it was the rear passenger side caliper that was making the noise. Only when going in reverse and usually when turning the wheels. Weird. I'll have to take it apart and see what's up. Maybe one of the anti rattle springs came undone. I'll do this later this week.
We also took it out for a joyride (going forward, not in reverse). The handling has truly been transformed! I can't wait to get this thing out on the next auto-x track event.
Later that eve, I started putting the rest of my interior back in. Got the center carpets back in and one of the rear storage bins (the one that was still intact).
This morning I repaired the broken lid hinges of the other storage bin with Gorilla Tape. It sounds ghetto, but the repair is invisible, and I dare say, stronger than the original hinge. The lid has screws on the inside that holds the broken off portion of the hinge. I took that part out, put gorilla tape on it, screwed it back together, and taped the other side to the storage bin. Installed, you can't tell that the bin lid is held on by tape.
Also battened down some wiring in the back of the car to quiet it down a bit.
I still need to put in the center armrest, seats, and the rear interior, but before I do that, I want to remove the rear bumper and see if I can do anything about the distorted bumper skin. Probably not much I can do, but I at least want to have a look at it.
fm
I swapped to the MSD fuel pump in the brown car. Next is to install some fittings in the Mallory 4309 fpr and find a new place for it. The old location just wasn't working anymore. Sorry no pics but it was next to the oil filter making it a chore to deal with. I'm thinking somewhere more in the middle of the firewall...
Today: after about 5 days (couple hours a day) I have finally finished scraping the paint off the rotor housings and polishing the tops. (I'll get the sides later, after its back together).
Now, i can finally bolt on the EFI goodies
Now, i can finally bolt on the EFI goodies
Full Blown 1.1
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
I swapped to the MSD fuel pump in the brown car. Next is to install some fittings in the Mallory 4309 fpr and find a new place for it. The old location just wasn't working anymore. Sorry no pics but it was next to the oil filter making it a chore to deal with. I'm thinking somewhere more in the middle of the firewall...
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
This morning I repaired the broken lid hinges of the other storage bin with Gorilla Tape. It sounds ghetto, but the repair is invisible, and I dare say, stronger than the original hinge. The lid has screws on the inside that holds the broken off portion of the hinge. I took that part out, put gorilla tape on it, screwed it back together, and taped the other side to the storage bin. Installed, you can't tell that the bin lid is held on by tape.
Originally Posted by Adam12A
I just moved mine to the firewall too. Remenber how mine used to just hang there with like 3 extra feet of fuel line. Ghettofied
I found a great spot for mine but it's too close to the hood so if I elongated the bracket just slightly to move the fpr down, it just might work. 3/8" or so should do it.
I guess I can document the FC stuff and sneak it in here...
I know I used fiberglass to repair that area and I was concerned about doing so. The glasswork I have done is with structural epoxy and the glass used should handle the kind of loads placed on it. My big concern is did I stop the crud from spreading? And the answer is that it probably doesn't matter. I am seeing rust forming on this particular car at some of the seams where Mazda covered the seams with some sort of caulk material after joining the sheet metal. The metal is rusty under the caulk and looks like it starts at the spot welds and works its way out from there. I will keep an eye on these repairs. This repair is on my GSL-EV so it will see between 3 and 4 thousand miles per year at most as it has a realistic range of under 70 miles and 90% of those miles are under 45mph. The most likely time for this particular repair to fail would be when standing still doing an EV inspired burnout. The second most likely would be in a panic stop at highway speeds. Both of those situations are maximum loads on the control arms.
Thanks for the concern!
Thanks for the concern!
It turns out the new location wouldn't work very well so I kept the fpr at the old location and redid all the fittings to fit better.
Results: the MSD pump isn't as forceful as the walbro. The walbro would cause the fuel pressure gauge to peg at 15psi (its limit) for a split second and quickly go down to 5.5psi and stay there. This is obviously too high for a Nikki. The MSD pump doesn't do that, nor is it as crisp when you first turn it on. I haven't tried blowing any air into the little boost sensing nipple while running yet.
Oh yeah, I test ran it after setting the fpr down to 2.25psi, which is the lowest it will go on my setup. Hmm, PercentSevenC got his down to 1psi. Not sure why mine is a bit higher. But I did keep my EFI rated fuel filter down right after the fuel pump. It might be making the pump work harder thus raising fuel pressure a little. I also have a 3/8" send and 5/16" return. I think the instructions recommend the opposite.
While running, the pressure goes up to 2.75 to 3psi. Not sure what to do about that. There wasn't any excess pressure in the tank that I could tell. I haven't driven it yet either.
Just a note for anyone wondering: Mallory 4309 fpr and MSD 2225 pump
Results: the MSD pump isn't as forceful as the walbro. The walbro would cause the fuel pressure gauge to peg at 15psi (its limit) for a split second and quickly go down to 5.5psi and stay there. This is obviously too high for a Nikki. The MSD pump doesn't do that, nor is it as crisp when you first turn it on. I haven't tried blowing any air into the little boost sensing nipple while running yet.
Oh yeah, I test ran it after setting the fpr down to 2.25psi, which is the lowest it will go on my setup. Hmm, PercentSevenC got his down to 1psi. Not sure why mine is a bit higher. But I did keep my EFI rated fuel filter down right after the fuel pump. It might be making the pump work harder thus raising fuel pressure a little. I also have a 3/8" send and 5/16" return. I think the instructions recommend the opposite.
While running, the pressure goes up to 2.75 to 3psi. Not sure what to do about that. There wasn't any excess pressure in the tank that I could tell. I haven't driven it yet either.
Just a note for anyone wondering: Mallory 4309 fpr and MSD 2225 pump
Full Blown 1.1
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
It turns out the new location wouldn't work very well so I kept the fpr at the old location and redid all the fittings to fit better.
Results: the MSD pump isn't as forceful as the walbro. The walbro would cause the fuel pressure gauge to peg at 15psi (its limit) for a split second and quickly go down to 5.5psi and stay there. This is obviously too high for a Nikki. The MSD pump doesn't do that, nor is it as crisp when you first turn it on. I haven't tried blowing any air into the little boost sensing nipple while running yet.
Oh yeah, I test ran it after setting the fpr down to 2.25psi, which is the lowest it will go on my setup. Hmm, PercentSevenC got his down to 1psi. Not sure why mine is a bit higher. But I did keep my EFI rated fuel filter down right after the fuel pump. It might be making the pump work harder thus raising fuel pressure a little. I also have a 3/8" send and 5/16" return. I think the instructions recommend the opposite.
While running, the pressure goes up to 2.75 to 3psi. Not sure what to do about that. There wasn't any excess pressure in the tank that I could tell. I haven't driven it yet either.
Just a note for anyone wondering: Mallory 4309 fpr and MSD 2225 pump
Results: the MSD pump isn't as forceful as the walbro. The walbro would cause the fuel pressure gauge to peg at 15psi (its limit) for a split second and quickly go down to 5.5psi and stay there. This is obviously too high for a Nikki. The MSD pump doesn't do that, nor is it as crisp when you first turn it on. I haven't tried blowing any air into the little boost sensing nipple while running yet.
Oh yeah, I test ran it after setting the fpr down to 2.25psi, which is the lowest it will go on my setup. Hmm, PercentSevenC got his down to 1psi. Not sure why mine is a bit higher. But I did keep my EFI rated fuel filter down right after the fuel pump. It might be making the pump work harder thus raising fuel pressure a little. I also have a 3/8" send and 5/16" return. I think the instructions recommend the opposite.
While running, the pressure goes up to 2.75 to 3psi. Not sure what to do about that. There wasn't any excess pressure in the tank that I could tell. I haven't driven it yet either.
Just a note for anyone wondering: Mallory 4309 fpr and MSD 2225 pump
Not enough time.....
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs
I lamented my constant cooling issues. :-( I cannot get a mazda thermostat in the housing. The housing is too shallow to get it in there. I have two electric fanse, 3 row radiator and I put in a 160 t-stat because the 180 wasn't cutting it. Thermometer in the radiator shows it cooling very well, but when you turn the fans off to let the coolant temp show, it will hit 200 to 210. Anyone know of a high flow water pump for early cars? I have a 4 port 13B, tall center ports. Engine was orginally built in Florida, but I had it done a few years ago. It got a large streetport and holley carb. It ran hot when I had the DCD weber set up on it too.
Originally Posted by Adam12A
That kinda sounds like the set up I might need. The fuel pressure from my Holley is too high for the Weber which recommends 3psi. I can only get mine down to 5
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-804/overview/
Or this Mr. Gasket 1-6 psi
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9710/overview/
Originally Posted by Goldrocket
I have a 4 port 13B, tall center ports.
Jeff the 4309 is return-style IIRC, right?
I ran the aeromotive 13301 (return style) with the stock GSL-SE fuel pump and fuel filter, connected to the Dellorto. Ran like a champ! The -SE pump is almost SILENT in comparison to the 12a one that i had on there before.
The previous setup had a mallory non-return regulator (as per RB instructions for the Dellorto) and the low pressure fuel pump - but still used the metal EFI fuel filter. I had no problems with spiking or floating fuel pressures.
The aeromotive had no problems dropping me to a steady 2.25-2.5 psi, and NEVER peaks like you described.
Perhaps the pressure spring is not seated right? And if i read correctly - you're keeping the vacuum tube on the regulator open to atmosphere, right?
I ran the aeromotive 13301 (return style) with the stock GSL-SE fuel pump and fuel filter, connected to the Dellorto. Ran like a champ! The -SE pump is almost SILENT in comparison to the 12a one that i had on there before.
The previous setup had a mallory non-return regulator (as per RB instructions for the Dellorto) and the low pressure fuel pump - but still used the metal EFI fuel filter. I had no problems with spiking or floating fuel pressures.
The aeromotive had no problems dropping me to a steady 2.25-2.5 psi, and NEVER peaks like you described.
Perhaps the pressure spring is not seated right? And if i read correctly - you're keeping the vacuum tube on the regulator open to atmosphere, right?
Ready or not...
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Taos, NM
I purchased everything my local O'Reilly's could provide for my rats' nest removal. The 5/32 fuel/emissions hose is IMPOSSIBLE to find! That's 4mm... still none. Nowhere online... I am also having a heck of a time finding a 6"x12" plate of 1/8" aluminum to make covers. Anyway She's running GREAT! but smoking when I idle at stoplights too long.