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I could have/should have made the driver side mount to mirror the other side, but I was in a hurry. The outlet fitting clearing the body is tight, that's why it's sort of sitting at an angle with the left side more forward than the right.
So far so good, although as it barely is cracking 60 degrees right now and my radiator fan is stuck on, I'm not stressing it very much. Oil pressure is 5-10psi higher now, probably due to the lack of a banjo fitting at the engine. Just AN bends.
Do note that the FC cooler is actually a little smaller than the under-radiator cooler, the core is the same height and thickness but about 1/2" or so shorter. (Narrower?) I may duct it if need be, but while it has no ducting, it also isn't behind the swaybar and A/C condensor. And the fan, even a stock fan, didn't pull air through more than 1/3-1/2 of the stock cooler.
Had to get my track fix before it gets really hot here. I really need to get the AC fixed.
Last time I ran at Harris Hill Raceway in the 90s the oil temp was climbing past 210F. Either the OEM cooler had clogged fins or the stock location wasn't good.
With the CSF 8066 cooler mounted up front on the chassis bar the needle never passed the 195 mark on the Autometer gauge.
This was my first time at an SCCA Track Night in America event. I recommend it. I was a little leery of them running first timers without passenger instructors, but they really keep an eye on what's happening on track.
Had to get my track fix before it gets really hot here. I really need to get the AC fixed.
Last time I ran at Harris Hill Raceway in the 90s the oil temp was climbing past 210F. Either the OEM cooler had clogged fins or the stock location wasn't good.
With the CSF 8066 cooler mounted up front on the chassis bar the needle never passed the 195 mark on the Autometer gauge.
This was my first time at an SCCA Track Night in America event. I recommend it. I was a little leery of them running first timers without passenger instructors, but they really keep an eye on what's happening on track.
Is that a Gatchaman/G-Force sigil on your helmet? Right on!
Had to get my track fix before it gets really hot here. I really need to get the AC fixed.
Last time I ran at Harris Hill Raceway in the 90s the oil temp was climbing past 210F. Either the OEM cooler had clogged fins or the stock location wasn't good.
With the CSF 8066 cooler mounted up front on the chassis bar the needle never passed the 195 mark on the Autometer gauge.
This was my first time at an SCCA Track Night in America event. I recommend it. I was a little leery of them running first timers without passenger instructors, but they really keep an eye on what's happening on track.
Is that a Gatchaman/G-Force sigil on your helmet? Right on!
I smelled burning rubber on the freeway yesterday, was hoping it wasn't me but I found the newish power steering belt snapped.
I figured out the idler pulley seized up, rather than order a new pulley I bought a 203-FF (17mmx40mmx12mm) bearing from Advance Auto for $10, drove out the old bearing then after a few attempts got the new one in straight, Idler spins again.
I made a 600 mile round trip to attend a car show. First real drive. Managed 23mpg. I’m ok with that.
Funny seeing this, I was engulfed in reading your build thread on this car last night and definitely impressed, had me up late in awe lol. Incredible car you have!
I was having issues with my car alarm going off randomly from a door trigger, as well as a faint glow from the domelight led bulb when in door mode even though the doors were shut each time.
I ran all new wiring for the ground side of the domelight circuit, splicing in the original connectors for the light and door switches. I figured out the led only glowed when hooked to the original wire that runs under the carpet to the passenger side door switch, so there must have been a mouse bite or chaffed spot on that wire.
Will keep an ear out for false alarms but it should be good now.
Last edited by YellowFB; Jul 19, 2025 at 01:30 PM.
Painted a couple of 1:24 Hasegawa kits to help make up my mind for the next paint job.
Thinking of going with a darker blue than what I have now or a hunter/British Racing green. The Mazda Mach Green is too flashy for me.
Painted a couple of 1:24 Hasegawa kits to help make up my mind for the next paint job.
Thinking of going with a darker blue than what I have now or a hunter/British Racing green. The Mazda Mach Green is too flashy for me.
How about something in between like the Mazda RX8 Nordic Green?
Hi All, I know this may not be the specific thread to comment this in, but I'm very new to working on cars, especially an old rotary car... I need to replace my front left control arm, along with the bushings and ball joint. So just the whole thing. The problem is that Mazda doesn't make the control arms anymore... Does anyone know if I can get one anywhere? :')
Front Left Control Arm