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Driveshaft was $480 including tax. Yes I'm in PA, above Philly. Before that car lived in Providence RI since late 80's. I wasnt sure what you were looking for when you asked for pics before.
Last pic,the closeup,what i saw initially.That's going to need some attention. Mine initially had unbroken paint on reinforcement plates but a slight bulge that didn't sound the same as elsewhere on plate when tapped with a hammer,working a pic opened the hole as you see in my pics.
Both sides had this issue in different spots on reinforcement plate. Pull your bins and look at floor and sides of inner fender. I had a slight bulge on one side and bumpy rust looking color showing thru paint on the other side.
Once repaired,hard left/right/left transitions felt tighter,bit less steering input. I did not really notice the difference til i had my Panasports with stickies on car. The Nexen all season tires on my SE wheels couldn't generate the kind of grip the summer tires could and the loose? transition was barely noticeable.
This past Saturday I swapped back to my 'stock' Nikki. It's getting too cold for my poorly tuned modded carb (wideband and off-time coming soon), and my clutch is still acting up so it's not like the power was going anywhere useful anyway. Strange that the car almost feels faster with the stocker, probably because the power comes on smoother (my mech secondaries were on/off) and the clutch isn't slipping so much. I wouldn't have bothered, except this is a daily and cold starts were just a pain at anything below 40F. It's oddly nice to have a stock carb for the time being, makes driving more relaxing.
Stock versus modded carb:
I'll be reviving my Nikki modding thread in the coming month or so, so be on the lookout for that if it's of interest - perhaps not for most folks. Secondaries will be getting brought out and the airbleeds will finally be taped as well as a few other things. Hope everyone has a good Thanksgiving .
Oh, and my custom head unit is making progress. I'll create a thread for it when I get a little further along in the prototyping stage.
Strange that the car almost feels faster with the stocker, probably because the power comes on smoother
I'm gonna go with it IS actually faster in the range you regularly use on the street. With the secondaries fully closed you can expect to see roughly 10% gain in torque below 4,000RPM.
This is a good read about Toyota's TVIS system on the 4AGE. I like it because it includes dyno charts which show how Toyota achieved a flat torque curve over such a large range on a small motor, and how much is gained/lost with the ports open vs closed. The Nikki vacuum secondaries work in nearly the exact way. The only difference is the diaphragm is activated by a solenoid that draws from a reservoir which can be flipped on and off via ECU. To TVIS or not to TVIS.
I know when you hog out a Nikki the vacuum diaphragm doesn't get the same amount of pull it did prior to the modification. I imagine some tweaking of spring rates could possibly fix that but the mech secondaries is so easy that's why people do it...but only when you switch back do you realize the power you are losing down low.
I'm gonna go with it IS actually faster in the range you regularly use on the street. With the secondaries fully closed you can expect to see roughly 10% gain in torque below 4,000RPM.
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I know when you hog out a Nikki the vacuum diaphragm doesn't get the same amount of pull it did prior to the modification. I imagine some tweaking of spring rates could possibly fix that but the mech secondaries is so easy that's why people do it...but only when you switch back do you realize the power you are losing down low.
Interesting little read, makes sense too. I actually think I've read that before from some other thread here... Figures why hogged out manifolds suffer in the low-end department.
Anyway, I think I should rephrase what I intended to say: Driving around town the car feels like it has less power - not flooring it, etc. That includes low end (I now realise I didn't specify before). It's actually when I wind it all they way out that it feels quicker. I'd really be curious to see the comparison on a dyno. I'm pretty certain Jeff would argue that the low end of a hogged Nikki (when properly tuned, which mine is... not) is actually improved over stock - although that also depends some on the mechanical secondary setup as that obviously affects how far the primaries open before the secondaries begin to. My primaries can open about 85% of of the way before the secondaries start to move - hence the on/off nature of my secondaries. And yeah, I achieved that via some custom linkages; I believe stock opens (or allows opening) much earlier, maybe around 65%?
I bet you could get some sort of vacuum secondary setup to work if you put the time into it. Although what fun is that, I want my secondaries to be on-call ! Interesting idea regardless. I bet someone somewhere has tried it.
Last edited by Benjamin4456; Nov 26, 2019 at 05:17 PM.
I think the secondaries pretty much mimic the primaries once you get over 4,000, they may have a slight delay from fully off-throttle to on-throttle, but they should fully open as far as the primary plates once you are in the right RPM range. Someone needs to hook up a go-pro over the carb and go for a drive LOL.
Unfortunately they're not going to last long in that mounting location. That low to the ground, they will pick up every thrown rock and be destroyed (cracked lenses) in about 1,000 miles where I live. If you lived out in the cou try and never saw another car on the road, you might be okay - but Ive replaced so many sets of air dam driving lights that when my last lens (*of the 4) gets cracked, I'm pulling them all out and sticking to the mains. I love yellow driving lights for highway sign illumination, but rocks kill the glass lenses too quickly making them a maintenance item that never ends...
Nowhere... hence why I won't be replacing mine once the last glass lens is cracked. I've been putting in 3" Pilot Sport driving lights which are round and color shift the regular white bulbs to project a yellow beam. This is a quality of the glass lenses, and I can't find those anymore. Over the years, I've probably gone through 5-6 sets of pairs of lights, swapping out the lenses when one would break. Too much effort any o're for as little as I drive the car at night, but yellow spots really make green and white road signage easy to see from a distance,
I have been looking around for a solution for yellow driving/fogligths on my FB. Like the earlier post, I am running the OEM bumper/valance. (Love that look, and maybe debris won't be that bad? Phoneix and Az could just be really rocky). All we have here is sand/gravel.... And maybe larger chunks of salt in the winter.
At first I was trying to find yellow LED foglights for automotive applications, like retrofitsource for example.
Then I found that the motorcycle guys have a large market for high powered LED light pods. There are a number of quality manufacturers and you can buy them individually and wire them yourself.
Can save money by buying x2 individual pods instead of the whole kit. We done need all the motorcycle specific stuff. Iw as planning on using my OEM AC pushbutton to power a relay for these (Even though amp draw is 1.6A only.
They are 1.7" in DIA and should hide up and out of the way in the rad/valance area.
I responded to op asking about driving lights/lenses.
There is a build thread that a member here has that showed large yellow lamps that after some investigation showed they came from Japan and were many years old.
They are driving lights. The reason you can’t find yellow driving lights in this country and the majority of others is that it is illegal to run them and where it’s illegal they won’t be offered for sale.
If you were to search you would only find Japan and maybe some other Asian countries allow forward facing amber head/driving/fog lamps.
France lighting codes specified all amber lamps on front of car lo/hi headlamps and driving and fog and date back to 1930s when studies were done by their government that determined yellow lamps to be better in their rain/fog environment than clear and that became their lighting code.
Tests done in 1993 revised lighting code where it was found that white light was superior to amber in all weather conditions and their lighting code was changed to all white forward facing lights with amber fog lamps allowed.
Driving lamps can be a flood/pencil beam/European flood beam and these lamps are mounted above bumper but below headlamp level in all applications.
Fog lamps are mounted below bumper and have a flat wide beam that allows light to get under rain/fog/snow and illuminate reflective lane markings and both sides of road to orient driver in poor conditions.
In this country,different states have minimum and maximum mounting height standards that fall within the above and switching standards are universal in that fog lamps work in conjunction with low beam and switch off on hi beam selection and driving lamps exact opposite.
Cycle lamps 2nd poster mentions with interchangeable pattern lenses are good for 150/395 yards respectively and in the cycle world are meant to establish the “three” points of light for oncoming visibility.
They will enhance the headlight beam but that is secondary to their intended purpose.
In automotive application 2nd poster envisions they will be more decorative than functional and money could be better spent on a lamp that fulfills function he desires.
I have been looking around for a solution for yellow driving/fogligths. At first I was trying to find yellow LED foglights for automotive applications, like retrofitsource for example.
Some periodical correct european example so any interessting:
I huge thanks to Stu and Redline Goods, I now have a nice shift boot!
Does anyone know how to get the brownish piece off the e-brake handle? I can't find that part nor the shift **** in any better condition. I'm gonna turn a new **** and that piece if I can get it off. Not a big fan of wood, but not many non-tacky options.
I glued it to the frame with silicone on one side of the velcro. I trimmed the velcro to get the biggest contact patch. I glued that half of the velcro and let it dry for several days. I figure it will hold it since the old rubber boot held with silicone for 5 years.
I huge thanks to Stu and Redline Goods, I now have a nice shift boot!
Does anyone know how to get the brownish piece off the e-brake handle? I can't find that part nor the shift **** in any better condition. I'm gonna turn a new **** and that piece if I can get it off. Not a big fan of wood, but not many non-tacky options.
You can get some good quality vinyl paint and pain both *****, once you workout how to remove the one.
Thanks, I may try that if I can't get that handle off. I tried that dye in the boot before replacing and it didn't work at all, but that may be due to it being rubber.
... I successfully got the wideband installed . Discovered some interesting things when driving around, but I'll save that for a tuning thread. The current install location and 'method' is temporary until I redo the whole center console face when I swap the radio (which I'll eventually make a thread for as well - the radio I mean, if it turns out good).
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