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Spent some coin,a lot of work there.Looks good.LSD,final drive ratio? Constructive criticism...see you went with T3 control arms,since you've taken so many steps to upgrade why not ditch the factory short control arms and go with a same length as lower control arms3rd link and fix the shortcomings of rear suspension in the car. Disregard if only concerned with straight line performance and not interested in improving cornering power.
Post a closer pic of upper control arm body mount reinforcing plates.
Reinforcing plates? Only the links were changed out - no reinforcing was used (do they make something like that?)
I was considering a different linkage but just used direct replacement parts for now. The rear end has a tapped hole in the top that I imagine is for a linkage attachment point. But I'm not too excited about cutting sheetmetal and boxing an opening for a 3rd link to live in. I like the idea of everything being bolt-on, so if the car is wrecked I can put everything into a new shell and get the "same" car in a new skin. I am interested in ideas though.
And yes it's the rear I ordered from Granny's last year (!!!). It showed up this week. I just added another post about this in my Granny's thread in the V8 RX7 forum.
It's a Ford 8.8 with 9" ends welded on. 3.90 with TruTrac (torsen style) LSD, 4x114.3 bolt pattern, GSL-SE caliper brackets and all stock 1st gen attachment locations, including sway bar.
When I ordered it I got 3.90 gears because A) they were a good match for the motor and trans I planned on using and B) they would keep everything running as normal until I did the motor swap. Win/win. Now that I've gotten the streetport 13B I'll probably go with a 4.30 or 4.56 gear set, but for now it's a stock-like 3.90.
so is this rear end something that's specially made to fit the fb?
Yes Granny's made this specifically to fit 1st Gen RX7's. They also make (or used to make) these with bracketry for 2nd and 3rd gen solid axle swaps (for drag racing).
Reinforcing plates? Only the links were changed out - no reinforcing was used (do they make something like that?)
I was considering a different linkage but just used direct replacement parts for now. The rear end has a tapped hole in the top that I imagine is for a linkage attachment point. But I'm not too excited about cutting sheetmetal and boxing an opening for a 3rd link to live in. I like the idea of everything being bolt-on, so if the car is wrecked I can put everything into a new shell and get the "same" car in a new skin. I am interested in ideas though.
And yes it's the rear I ordered from Granny's last year (!!!). It showed up this week. I just added another post about this in my Granny's thread in the V8 RX7 forum.
It's a Ford 8.8 with 9" ends welded on. 3.90 with TruTrac (torsen style) LSD, 4x114.3 bolt pattern, GSL-SE caliper brackets and all stock 1st gen attachment locations, including sway bar.
When I ordered it I got 3.90 gears because A) they were a good match for the motor and trans I planned on using and B) they would keep everything running as normal until I did the motor swap. Win/win. Now that I've gotten the streetport 13B I'll probably go with a 4.30 or 4.56 gear set, but for now it's a stock-like 3.90.
Those shocks are old,i haven't seen them in years. Somebodys NOS stash i suppose. You wouldn't have been happy with them anyway,not a good match for RB springs. The springs would overpower them. Those springs and Tokico Blues are a perfect match. I put my last set of them in when i did suspension refresh/upgrade. I believe they are NLA at this point. Post a closeup pic of reinforcement plates where upper links attach to body. In that shot where you have the Koni installed, the car had some damage repair in that area. The seam sealer is not original,looks to be liberally applied.
Post a closeup pic of reinforcement plates where upper links attach to body. In that shot where you have the Koni installed, the car had some damage repair in that area. The seam sealer is not original,looks to be liberally applied.
Plates at upper links...
The shock towers and caulk around them are the same on both sides. Schmutz is applied liberally on both. Maybe the factory worker had too much sake at lunch that day. There isn't any body filler or dents on the rear quarters, and paint looks original everywhere.
Those shocks are old,i haven't seen them in years. Somebodys NOS stash i suppose. You wouldn't have been happy with them anyway,not a good match for RB springs. The springs would overpower them. Those springs and Tokico Blues are a perfect match.
The shocks and struts came from Mazdatrix a few weeks ago. I got them because RB recommended them to me to use with their springs, and the Blues are NLA. Since our cars aren't really supported anymore my choices are A) OE suspension B) $$$ Coilovers or C) Jerry-Rig parts made for another car. I had to grind the Koni Mustang shocks down to fit the axle mount...
and we all know the struts need surgery and bushings to fit. My original plan was coilovers, and I have most parts for the install. But then I talked myself into a nice, cushy OE ride.... until I got the leaky Tokico OE shocks. I can push the rod completely in and it doesnt return on it's own. Both the rears and fronts are like that. NOPE. Leaning back to coilovers now.
The shocks and struts came from Mazdatrix a few weeks ago. I got them because RB recommended them to me to use with their springs, and the Blues are NLA. Since our cars aren't really supported anymore my choices are A) OE suspension B) $$$ Coilovers or C) Jerry-Rig parts made for another car. I had to grind the Koni Mustang shocks down to fit the axle mount...
and we all know the struts need surgery and bushings to fit. My original plan was coilovers, and I have most parts for the install. But then I talked myself into a nice, cushy OE ride.... until I got the leaky Tokico OE shocks. I can push the rod completely in and it doesnt return on it's own. Both the rears and fronts are like that. NOPE. Leaning back to coilovers now.
The oe Tokico strut/shock is not a gas charged unit. They will do exactly as you found,they stay in position you put them in,just like all struts/shocks from the time period did,there's nothing wrong with them. They are calibrated to the oe spring rate,perfect for an original oe restoration. I stand by my statement they are not a good match for RB springs,the RB spring rate will overpower them,prematurely wearing them out leaving you with a bouncy/porpoising ride in @1k miles.
I do not know why someone at RB said they'd be compatible with their springs,i've been given misinformation by their tech staff before-more than once. I hope you are able to return them,if not advertise them in classifieds,someone doing an original restoration will buy them.
The Tokico Blues/Illuminas are a perfect match for the springs,both NLA. The Konis are the best way to go as you have ability to adjust them.
You can forget about the cushy ride at this point,the springs,struts/shocks,ride will be ok on smooth road,poor pavement,not so much, solid heim end upper/lower links will transmit noise and vibes from rear diff and driveline into the body. The 8.8 diff increases unsprung weight in rear of car,effects of this can be minimized with shock adjustments.Consider replacing the oe front swaybar with a stiffer one,it will complement the other suspension work you are doing and it won't add any harshness to suspension. Its influence not felt til loading suspension in a turn.
Take some real closeup pics of reinforcement plates left/right. Pics 1 and 3 in prior post and post them up here.
The RB springs don't feel all that stiff compared to OE...until you add the RB front sway bar. I disagree that it is unnoticeable. You will notice it on city streets that have any sort of patch work. Any time opposite side tires aren't on the same plane it will toss you around in your seat. I'd still recommend it for anyone who does spirited driving though.
RB rear springs are actually softer than stock, and since your body's CG sits close to the rear axle, that's most of what you feel ride-quality wise.
The rear roll couple is already perilously short at brand new OE "Stock" ride height, and lowering only makes it worse. That is why when RB made their lowering springs, they wisely made the rate softer so as to maintain the same rear roll stiffness,
"THOON"
Hahaha. But seriously, the gas tank is on the left side, the battery is on the left side, and my middle-aged butt is on the left side. No wonder the cars all lean to the left.
Do right hand drive cars slouch left like our American cars? Or does the drivers weight balance the car's inherent left handed weight bias?
Do you have all new springs/struts/shocks installed. No doubt original front springs are collapsed. After you get car done and drive 100 miles or so to let suspension settle,measure from fenderlip to ground at all 4 corners. Rear will be 1/2"-3/4" higher than front. Driver side may be about 1/4" lower than right side which is acceptable. There are ways to adjust for this. Some cars have a more pronounced lean than others,problem began on assembly line.
Are you saying all the 1st gens were made wrong at the factory? I'm commenting on all 79-85 rx7's on original springs; They all sag on the drivers side (here in America anyway). I had assumed it was due to the Battery and fuel tank being on the same side as the driver. I am asking if non-US cars have the same issue, since the driver's weight on the right would counter the battery and fuel weight on the left.
Do you have all new springs/struts/shocks installed. No doubt original front springs are collapsed. After you get car done and drive 100 miles or so to let suspension settle,measure from fenderlip to ground at all 4 corners. Rear will be 1/2"-3/4" higher than front. Driver side may be about 1/4" lower than right side which is acceptable. There are ways to adjust for this. Some cars have a more pronounced lean than others,problem began on assembly line.
There's something screwy with the way the S3 tubs were welded together where the left side is lower. It's not just because everything is on the left, although the super heavy OE exhaust balances it a bit. Was talking about this with j9fd3s a long time ago, and he told me the year split, but during one of the chassis redesigns they kind of screwed up the assembly line jigs.
If you set up the suspension on a later 1st gen to sit "level", it's actually crooked suspension-wise.
The books I have suggest that RHD markets had different springs left vs. right, and LHD markets didn't. Which also doesn't help.
A successful track outing with SCCA TNIA. Car ran well but is burning a bunch of oil, control rings maybe, need to discuss with the builder. Regardless, I shaved 4 seconds off my lap times with the new street port EFI motor compared to the stock port stock Nikki. Now it just needs a better gear ratio to stay in the power band...and stiffer springs...and better brakes...and then a turbo....and even stiffer springs...and better brakes...and...
Are you saying all the 1st gens were made wrong at the factory? I'm commenting on all 79-85 rx7's on original springs; They all sag on the drivers side (here in America anyway). I had assumed it was due to the Battery and fuel tank being on the same side as the driver. I am asking if non-US cars have the same issue, since the driver's weight on the right would counter the battery and fuel weight on the left.
There are strut top spacers available from Mazdatrix in 5mm. I've heard these are a copy of what Mazda introduced as a TSB to address customer complaints. Kinda a cheap way to weight balance the car? I put two on the left front and now it sits nearly perfect. 1/8" difference side to side.
There's something screwy with the way the S3 tubs were welded together where the left side is lower. It's not just because everything is on the left, although the super heavy OE exhaust balances it a bit. Was talking about this with j9fd3s a long time ago, and he told me the year split, but during one of the chassis redesigns they kind of screwed up the assembly line jigs.
If you set up the suspension on a later 1st gen to sit "level", it's actually crooked suspension-wise.
The books I have suggest that RHD markets had different springs left vs. right, and LHD markets didn't. Which also doesn't help.
Let's be realistic,these are mass produced street cars. We're not talking full tube chassis coil overs,weight jacking,etc...These aren't the only cars that hit the road domestic or foreign with manufacturing quirks that needed some type of suspension tweaking to put right what should have been done on the assembly line. Mazda could have addressed this with specific coil springs left/right, they didn't,they were building the cars as cheaply as possible,like other manufacturers and like other manufacturers raided parts bin from previous models to build this car.
The stance complaint was an issue when cars were new,many times drew a warranty job ticket with this complaint,often along with sloppy steering wheel/wandering complaint on cars with so few miles they had paper temp tags still. It was an appearance and performance complaint. Mazda issued strut spacers to address the stance issue,some cars required more than one. Steering box adjustment,tire rotation to put a tire contributing to a drift condition to the rear of car to minimize it. I recall replacing a handful of tires under warranty to address this. Equalizing and bumping tire pressure up from door placard and a trip on the alignment rack.No surprise more than a few cars as delivered had alignment settings out of whack enough that when added to the other issues generated a"busy" steering complaint.
All the above served to right the appearance issue and tighten up the handling-on a new car. Every car did not get this treatment,only those that generated complaints got the full Monty.I did a lot of these,couple hundred easy,likely more,never kept track. Still have about 2 dozen strut spacers on a piece of wire like a keyring in one of my toolboxes.
These issues became more commonplace as cars racked up miles and i did a lot of this work after cars had been out of warranty,better pay for me as Mazda wasn't generous with warranty pay rate,same as other nameplates.In driving these cars to duplicate some other complaint i often wondered why the owner was complaining about a noise in the car but had no concern about the fact that the car was all over the road.
I can recall one customer who was a big deal at dealership where i worked,retired Air Force,he bought and optioned out a car,spoiler,front airdam,louvers,Targa top,aftermarket wheels/tires,fog lights only to trade in car for another for a different color,sometimes in same model year and do the whole upgrade thing all over again. He was a pretty cool dude and requested i work on his cars,this was back in the time when service customers were allowed in service area,he'd often drop a couple twenties or a 50 dollar bill in my toolbox while i wasn't watching.
One of his new GSLs had the wander issues and as he often did after seeing the service writer and dropping his keys,came out and talked to me about"tightening"it up and him telling me"this one ain't no drinkin and drivin car,son" as he gave me his bonecrusher handshake.
There are strut top spacers available from Mazdatrix in 5mm. I've heard these are a copy of what Mazda introduced as a TSB to address customer complaints. Kinda a cheap way to weight balance the car? I put two on the left front and now it sits nearly perfect. 1/8" difference side to side.
The shims only”corrected” ride height had no effect on weight distribution. Cosmetic fix only.
You staying you stacked two of these(10mm) and have a difference of 1/8” now. Your car must have had a pronounced sag previously,original springs,miles on car?
I have noticed on a couple of my cars the heavy center section of RB streetport system minimizes this condition slightly with new,stiffer springs in place.
08-23-19, 12:15 AM
