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i think,.... That i might have an idea how i caused this. The double belts were new and adjusted properly. The cap and rotor were new and installed properly. But, as i said i was tuning my carb all night (8pm till 2am).
Most of my pit stops were at well lit convenience stores parking lots, but my last stop was not. It was in a dark church lot, and i didnt use my flashlight because i was just changing throttle springs, and could do it by feel. Well today i cannot find the biggest spring anywhere in the car with my other tuning parts.
I'm wondering if i left it under the hood somewhere and it fell into the belts, prying it off at the pulley. 😯
the last pic is how i found the belts when i opened the hood. One was off and the second was "inside out" and out of the groove. Weird.
I don't know. I had been running it hard (7000+) for hours, and when this happened i was driving easy coming back into town around 3500 rpm. Whack ching ching ching ching dink dink ching ching ching. Turned into a glider as gsl-seforme put it.
You can connect your leading coil ingnitionkabel with the leading spark kabel L1 front and your trailing coil ingnitionkabel with the leading spark kabel L2 rear rotor directly. Your engine will start and you will be able for drive home without the ingniton rotor and rotor cap. Some tape will help fix both end of the ignitionkabel. Sparktime will not be perfect but it will work for emergency aid.
I understand what you're saying Thomas,the engine would run-not well but it would run.
What do you have regarding ignition system on your car?
I am aware of the company but have no 1st hand knowledge of the products. Suggest you read thru chuylers' build thread regarding his complications with his Jenvy conversion,horsepower,driveability issues. At this point i think he is considering a rear gear change to help performance.
Everything PAC makes is designed for rotaries and Mazda rotary cars. They make very high end performance parts aimed at drag racers and street cars alike. My bro in law uses their billet plates.
That's a big step,changes nature of the car,been there,done that. Suggest you buy a used chunk with lsd and put your gearset in that. You can switch between gearsets as desired. I have acquired a couple complete GSL differentials that i've removed chunks from and tightened up Clutchpacks and regeared. When you get into ratios you are considering,1st gear in trans has little use.
Everything PAC makes is designed for rotaries and Mazda rotary cars. They make very high end performance parts aimed at drag racers and street cars alike. My bro in law uses their billet plates.
Hey,i'm not poo,pooing their products,performance or quality.Their stuff looks well made. You don't have to defend the company. Chuyler1 is the only one on the forum i'm aware of using their products,he has them in two different vehicles and is writing about his trials and tribulations in trying to get his car running the way he wants. Lots of info,interesting reading.
Nothing bad to say about the Jenvey products. Most of my issues have been on the Adaptronic side of the build, where the software isn't really designed for throttle body injection so the closer the fuel injectors get to the intake ports, the better it runs. The gearing change I want to make is more to match the big street port.
However, I think there are easier ways to build up an EFI conversion. People are having good luck with the Holley kits because they allow staging primary and secondary runners, include an idle valve, and are dead simple to wire.
I think the EFI hardware kits have the same challenges as Jenvey. You still need idle control if you are expecting turn-key starts and the throttle will be very sensitive the first 5% of pedal travel. Not an issue for a race car, but on the street with stop and go you may prefer something that keeps those long narrow stock runners so you can modulate the throttle in traffic and have the torque to drive with one pedal.
Thanks GSL-SEforme. Yes I want to put a good reliable FI (DFI is digital fuel injection, right?)
Pretty sure he was talking about Direct Fire Ignition, AKA FC-style distributorless ignition, for the leading plugs. Can be done without an ECU, but you still have to use the distributor for the trailing ignition.
Everything PAC makes is designed for rotaries and Mazda rotary cars. They make very high end performance parts aimed at drag racers and street cars alike. My bro in law uses their billet plates.
Read thru chuyler's thread again about issues with idle control and having to keep his foot on pedal to keep running when 1st started,not too different than a carb. He has installed a workaround idle up system,not sure if he has that dialed in yet.
Reason i suggested the Holley/Fast type throttlebody is they have an iac that works just like a modern car that gives engine higher idle speed when started cold and gradually dropping down to a set target idle speed it will maintain.
Been a while since I have been active on here, or with 7's in general... I'm proud to say that #520151 is now mine. 9/78 production car, non-sunroof. Bought it from a guy in Chatsworth that had gotten it from the original owner. It's a shell with no engine/trans or dash and everything that goes in said dash. That being said, per the service history file I got with the car it was very well taken care of up until around 2009. Even all the steering components, bushings, etc look to be in very nice shape. Most importantly, the body is absolutely rust free. Was a New York car for about 4 years before it came out to California around 1983-84, where the original owner had it up until very recently...
That's where my car comes in...
Unfortunately the years have not been kind to my 80 LS. I'm chalking this all down to it being an east coast car for most of it's life - but the bottoms of the doors are falling apart, the hood is starting to look like rotten swiss cheese, some other minor areas but the worst part is the sunroof area - it's all at the point where it will be too time and money intensive to repair. The great part is all my running gear is there, and in great shape. Think the 13b I have in there is about 30k miles on the rebuild from back in 2012-ish. Did all 4 KYB shocks and racing beat springs a while back too, maybe a hundred miles on them...
The plan is to clean up the 79 as best as I can, and move my running gear, some of the suspension components, and a lof of my dash/interior components (which will be re-covered as the 79 is a black interior car) from the 80. Want to get the 79 running and driving so I can tool around in it for a while before I re-paint the car it's original silver. Will be harvesting just about anything that's savable from the 80 for spares, then the shell is most likely headed to the great scrapyard in the sky. That'll be hard to do for me, but at least the soul will live on to keep an early 79 model alive.
Also thought this was cool. Don't think I've ever seen one of these hatch latch plates either. Not sure what the history of that club is but pretty neat, and I'll be keeping it on the car.
I'll be posting up a build thread for progress on the 79. Would like to try to get in touch with the original owner if he is still around and get his story on the car too, if I manage that I'll post that in the build thread as well.
There are other efi options and not all end up with the same results.
I have twm (now borla Induction) with a Weber Ida. The car drives like a better version of stock at all rpms. I didn't loose anything anywhere. I also didn't need idle control.
Efihardware makes at least 3 options.
You could even go with one of the Holley efi kits.
Anyways, there are lots of options and not all have the drawbacks you've read about.
You live in FL Mikey, correct? I live in NH. When I say idle control is needed for cold starts, I'm talking about sub 60 degree weather. When it's 80, I tip in the throttle, Fire it up and I'm good to go. When it's 40, I need to hold the throttle open a bit longer before I can drive off or I need to heal toe at the end of the street to keep it from stalling until it gets a little warmer.
It gets cold here also. Well cold for here. =)
We get low 30s. I probably had to use a little gas pedal to start it on cold days but once fired it idled fine.
By the way, anyone know if the seals for the taillights for SA's are still available or am I going to be custom-making some?
Looks like Atkins still has the left one, but for 45 bucks a pop. I didn't have much luck finding them when I did mine so I just used some black latex caulking. No water or fogging to report, just be sure to apply plenty to the lens and the back of the housing if you go that route. The latex caulk makes removal slightly less painful compared to silicone if you need to pull off the lens or housing for some reason.
Though if you find any, do share. I'm sure someday I'll wish I had a proper seal in there.
Edit: The issue with custom making one from generic material is that the factory ones are 'split' in the sense that the seal goes around the housing and mates between both the lens and the body. You could probably make two gaskets to be used instead. Curious what you might come up with.
Last edited by Benjamin4456; 08-16-19 at 12:00 AM.
Good to know. The latex caulk sounds like the way to go at this point. Was hoping the seals off the 80 would be half decent. No such luck...lol
Auto parts stores have all kinds of adhesive backed weather stripping to make a water tight seal of the tail light assembly to the body. It is a common problem.
When I ran my Dell I used vacuum advanced and it really made it come alive off throttle and in the midrange. Also idled kind of rough but I could live with it. If I get another rotary I might just put the Dell on it to have a different feel. That way I can enjoy my hogged nikki and my Dell.
Yeah, I,m quite happy with the improvement in drivability, and stronger midrange feel. The idle is a bit rougher but I don't mind it. If I get better MPG,s its even better!
What did I do today,... what did I do??? Hmm. OH YEAH, I remember now. I'm played with my rear end all day!
Taking the kids to the amusement park tomorrow (back to school soon) so friday will be driveshaft day. I have everything for the front except the strut cartridges. I was hesitant to order Konis since guys are getting the wrong ones lately (ordering MR2 rears), but "I'm in it to win it" now, so.... gotta get something.
Actually I was going to use stock OE Tokicos on all 4 corners, but 2 of 4 are leaking oil right out of the box. Screw that, I had new Fox body Konis for the rear so... Konis it will be. I'm tired, goodnight.
Spent some coin,a lot of work there.Looks good.LSD,final drive ratio? Constructive criticism...see you went with T3 control arms,since you've taken so many steps to upgrade why not ditch the factory short control arms and go with a same length as lower control arms3rd link and fix the shortcomings of rear suspension in the car. Disregard if only concerned with straight line performance and not interested in improving cornering power.
Post a closer pic of upper control arm body mount reinforcing plates.
Yes,Ford 8.8",shortened and FB spring mounts,control arm brackets fabricated and welded on, Granny's speed shop has similar offerings,may have come from there,not sure they're still in business.
08-11-19, 01:08 PM
