Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

If I wanted to clean the inside of my overflow I'd use a scotch brite pad and something like a fork bent in such a manner as to be able to scrub the entire inside. That's the only way to clean the modern foodservice polycarbonate coffee decanters.

Ms. DIY

if I wanted to clean a coffee service device I would use crushed ice and salt... shush it around a lot. rinse repeat.

Ms. DIY

changed the rotor and distributor caps...

is that RUST????????


it occurred to me to get some fine emery (but I don't have any) so, having just thought kitchen cleaning of coffee pots... I grabbed the CLR (calcium, lime & rust deposit cleaner). SPARINGLY I cleaned the history... I still don't have things adjusted right, but have definitely gained some power.
AFTER PIC


minimal backfire and much less the sloth!

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, I clean up behind the waitstaff that uses that method. That's why I make the big bucks.

And congrats on your improved ignition!

dougingraham

The Bump stop is pretty easy to do. You need a 10mm box wrench and a straight screwdriver. The adjustment is on the back of the headlamp housing a few inches away from the motor. Loosen the 10mm nut and back out the screw a little. If the front of the cover does not line up the way you want you will want to loosen the bolts that hold the motor in place and move it around so it is ever so slightly low. I found a 10mm socket on a 3 inch extender with a stubby ratchet gave good access to these. Tighten the motor bolts back up and make sure it didn't shift. Screw in the bump stop until it just touches and tighten up the nut while holding the setting in place with the screwdriver. The whole thing is easier to do than describe.

I rinsed my bottle out and scrubbed the outside and it looks better but far from good. There was sludge in the bottom which I am glad is no longer there. I keep thinking about switching to the Evans coolant product. I am going to flush it and replace the coolant soon anyway. No way to know when it was last done. The one record of it I have was 1994 (I think.)

On the dome light LED, were you worried it would not be bright enough? This one is quite a lot brighter than the original bulb. I just went into the garage and sat in the passenger seat and was easily able to read. This one is the only one that stood a chance of that and fitting in the housing under the clear cover. Not much need for a diffuser as this bulb has a 120 degree beam spread and the original cover acts somewhat as a spreader. It does have 4 hot spots but they happen to be just about where you would want them. I would take a no flash picture but I don't think you really can't tell anything from that.

Jhereg

iTrader: (27)

Like he said... The LED's in dome light make a huge difference. If you think they aren't going to be bright enough, you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Ms. DIY

I am getting sick of reading "for manual transmission" on every tuning guide I look at! Still, I dig in. First time taking the air cleaner off. Boy was the wing-nut torqued on hard! So, I'm just exploring... and wrapping my head around what I see. Could use some carb cleaner. The green connector is for my vacuum switch? It has no one to marry!



btw The Dizzy cap had no fit interference, however the new one fits better (maybe it had the wrong part?) The clips act just right with the new cap and the old one was hard to clip on. I haven't opened it back up to inspect, but I suspect it is just fine.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Green connector is for "Choke Return Solenoid Valve. (B19)" Normally a green-dot solenoid on the carburetor, it's not used on California-spec cars; it just dangles. I de-harnessed mine last time I went thru the engine harness.

One of several carb area differences between Cali-spec and everybody else.

RxTex

iTrader: (4)

Removing the rear sway bar was one of the first things i did to my red fb. The changes it made under hard, sustained cornering are great. The car settles into the corner much better, and rear end movement is very predictable.

Ms. DIY

I'm starting to get it why the PO decided to unload this A/T Cali car... so many exceptions to so many unique features. I am grateful for your sharing your knowledge. I rely on this group so much for my sanity... Frankly if I hadn't found this site I would not have purchased another RX7 (I had my first one for about a week before someone bought it out from under me... I was weak)... and if I had realized how "unique" her structure is (even in the realm of 7s) I would not have bought this one. Now I can only look forward.

Currently I am able to get the little brat to start well - with only a low range of rpms (up to 3k), -OR- run with a wide range of rpms & GOOD power but poor to no ability to start. At least I get to try her running well if I mess around after she's started. I'm suspended in HOPE. Still... whatever I do there are always some kinds of backfire.

8064r7

iTrader: (1)

Wish I had done more, but complete lack of energy today. Built an engine stand and noticed that my turbo exhaust manifold at least has landed in the U.S. on its way to me.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The brown car was able to run with an S4 ECU swap. Now it's time to tear it all out of there to do a more prefered R5 swap.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Careful, or someday you'll be the one shaking their head at all the noob questions. No better teacher than experience.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Not a bad idea! Would like to see some pics, sounds interesting..

I haven't gotten a lot done besides starting the turbo engine and spooling it up. Need to get motivation to finish the little things to have it completely ready for driving when the driveshaft comes...feels good though

Fungus Mungus

iTrader: (9)

The wife said our dining room table needed refinishing, so no rotary joy for me today. I'm writing this in between coats of danish oil. The upside is that danish oil smells better than motor oil.

I did pick up some aluminum angle iron from the hardware store to use for modding my S4 intake manifold so that it will work with my GSL-SE keg. Also picked up some lock nuts to do the PB&J mod on the rear upper links. Still waiting on parts for the rest of the rear end. Oh, and yesterday I ordered a Racing Beat 12A road racing header to go with the exhaust that has been sitting on my garage floor for the past 3 months. If I'm going to have to drop the exhaust to get the driveshaft back in place, I'll be d@mned if I put that POS leaking, stock exhaust back on.

fm

Frankenrex

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like an ignition issue.
Number one, make sure that your leading and trailing ignitions are hooked up right, at the coils, distributor, and plugs. Usually, the leading coil is the rear one, but check the wiring diagram and make sure someone hasn't switched the trigger wires. Then make sure the leading coil goes to the center contact on the distributor cap, and L1 & 2 terminals on the cap actually go to the L1 & 2 plugs, likewise for the trailing. Apologies if you've already done all that.
Oh, and check timing for both leading and trailing.

Ms. DIY

I HAVE hashed and rehashed wiring... front 1 back 2 - Leading lower - Trailing top
which coil has yellow/green wire... I've even intentionally tried WRONG configurations to learn how they behave.

As timing goes... I don't have a timing light (never could read one... and always got by without it). I've always done timing by ear... Guess that doesn't apply to a rotary. The guy who did the muffler and tranny work is like me about timing...
Thank you for input. I made some progress because I read a thread note about tight tolerance, and have found a tiny adjustment to make a HUGE differrence. I will be delighted if/when I find out that's my problem. Believe me, you will all know when I win this challenge!

I don't even know anyone in my town who owns a timing light. I guess I'll have to PAY! Our import mechanical shop is VERY EXPENSIVE about everything they touch. I have been avoiding them... could be a bargain in disguise if I narrow it down to timing. I think I'll call them Monday for an estimate for that service.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

DIY, get a timing light! They're relatively inexpensive, unless you buy an expensive one.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Nice! Quick work you do sir

Deemo13

For the theme "What did you do to your fb today"

Well, I bought a set of new Riken mesh with almost new Tires for $300, flushed the radiator and cooling system, and changed the oil. Also found a little LED light to install in the dome light, a bandana for the center boot just temporarily, and a little carb work. Wish I had pictures

Ms. DIY

Really cool video, thanks. Now I'll be a Cretan if I don't follow up. I've seen threads where idiots bug and bug for support and don't follow advice. It isn't pretty when they have exhausted all kindness.
I priced a timing light. $40 at O'Reileys, or I found one on craigslist for $10. I will use the replay feature on the video a lot... I only felt lost a couple of times on the first pass.... This is the best explanation I've ever been given!

13x

stay with new they are cheap enough I am using one of these new timing light if you want one with out the advance feature they are 19.99, I understand and appreciate the stigma with the brand but some of it is actually ok .. this one has flawlessly replaced the 20 plus year old one that was dropped once too many times

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Timing lights pay for themselves the first time you use them. Even without considering what a competent mechanic charges for using one, Setting the timing right makes your plugs last longer (less fouling, less wear) and a halfway-decent timing light costs about what a set or two of good plugs does.

Just keep it away from the fan, & keep the cord away from the belts.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

We're a bunch of conversationalists now. Never mind what I did to my FB today, let's talk about the weather. hint hint

Ahem! Steering this back on topic. Thanks Lindahl. I'd like to test the MegaSquirt next. I mean why not? The engine is still in the car and I've got a couple harnesses here with some high impedance injectors. I don't have to get started on the header build just yet. Oops, I'm having a conversation. I'll keep this to what I did to my FB today, not what I'd like to do or haven't yet done. That's what this thread is for. hint hint

dougingraham

On the GSL-EV: I took a picture of the repaired rear defogger and wiper switch.

Continued to work on rust repair. I am going to fix these bad ones up and probably move the Electric drive train over to another roller in a few years if this comes back. Cheaper to find an un rusty roller than pay for welding type repairs. Here are a couple of photos of in progress rust repair.

The photo with the blue masking tape is inside the passenger compartment left rear wheel well in front of the shock column. This is the other side of the patch I mentioned a few days ago. I chipped away all the loose rust I could reach. Then used a wire brush to remove as much surface rust as possible. Finally painted it with two coats of the permatex rust converter. I am going to wire brush this again on the areas that still sort of look rusty and apply another couple of coats.

The last photo is of that apparantly common area that rusts out. I cleaned the area behind the storage bins and put in a fiberglass patch. This wheel well side has been cleaned as well as possible and the rust converter applied. The white stuff is west systems epoxy thickened with colloidal silica to the thickness of peanut butter and used as structural filler. Next will be to apply another fiberglass bandaid and then primer and paint. My only worry is that if this continues to degrade it will eventually affect the upper control arm attach point which is that still rusty bolt to the right. If it gets to that point I will turn this into a parts car and find another car to convert.