What did you do to your FB today?
07-02-13, 03:45 PM
#3252
To go the extra mile, throw some paint in the insets around the Mazda logo on the spoke. Did that with mine and then polished and it looked superb.
Best pic I have of it - long before I had a digital camera. Guess I should find the original photos and rescan them, not that the photos are all that great, either. I think only the rear wheel had been painted at this point, though all four were polished.
Car now has GSL-SE suspension, so the Plus wheels are on a parts car, but I still have them!
Best pic I have of it - long before I had a digital camera. Guess I should find the original photos and rescan them, not that the photos are all that great, either. I think only the rear wheel had been painted at this point, though all four were polished.
Car now has GSL-SE suspension, so the Plus wheels are on a parts car, but I still have them!
I just tried this to see if the masking would work next to the beveled edge. Its just cheapo rustoleum paint. I've gotta do this 3 more times, but with auto paint.
07-02-13, 04:53 PM
#3253
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I think I started something that will be big. Started with a brake swap and will probably finish with a new coil over suspension. I can feel my wallet lightening just thinking about it.
07-02-13, 06:13 PM
#3254
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
Anyone want to party in SW Michigan this weekend? Wife and kids are heading out of town for a wedding, so I've got a 3 day autocross event all to myself this weekend. 
How sad. lol.
.
How sad. lol..
07-02-13, 07:51 PM
#3255
Did you hand paint in the inserts... That part has been bugging me, but its so small I figured at a 10' glance they look good.
I just tried this to see if the masking would work next to the beveled edge. Its just cheapo rustoleum paint. I've gotta do this 3 more times, but with auto paint.
I just tried this to see if the masking would work next to the beveled edge. Its just cheapo rustoleum paint. I've gotta do this 3 more times, but with auto paint.
For the paint, I just used Duplicolor satin black, IIRC. Nowadays I would probably use Rustoleum satin black. It's designed to be used on outdoor furniture, and seems to work well.
I'll have to take a look at the wheels next time I'm at my folks, where the parts car is parked, and see how they're holding up.
07-03-13, 02:49 AM
#3256
I can only dream of a 3-day autocross weekend, but my wife will have none of that. If I lived anywhere near Michigan, I'd be there in a heartbeat. I may manage to break away for Sevenstock if it doesn't fall on my daughter's birthday weekend.This evening, having taken possession of 3 replacement exhaust hangers , I replaced ONE exhaust hanger. I realized I forgot to get the bolts at the hardware store for the other two.
Then, in preparation for installing the front cover of my GSL-SE 13b, I cleaned the old gasket off. I really hate cleaning gaskets. I mean, really, really fkin hate cleaning those miserable b@stards from h3ll. Paper gaskets, my @ss...these things are the worst embodiments of Satan. How can paper polymerize so effectively as to make it nearly impervious to every scraping tool I own?
I think the Japanese made POWs clean gaskets between floggings. In fact, I've convinced myself that the word "kamikaze" means "to clean gaskets"...derived from the word "kami", meaning "gasket" and "kaze" meaning "to clean".
If I never have to clean another gasket again, I'll buy Sarah Palin a one year subscription to Outdoors AND Guns & Ammo.
But the front iron is clean and ready for the front cover to go on. If I have to clean another gasket...well, I guess I'll clean the damn thing and complain about it.
PS, OK, before the flames start, I know that kamikaze actually means "god wind"...I was just using that for dramatic effect. Because I *hate* cleaning $!*@& gaskets.
fm
Last edited by Fungus Mungus; 07-03-13 at 03:00 AM.
07-03-13, 09:50 PM
#3257
Fungus_Mungus - Hahah yeah i hear ya man! Did you try using WD-40 to soak the gaskets before scraping? it can make a huge difference! consider yourself well-off that its all behind you now 
Today I FINALLY fixed my exhaust rattle! It turns out, all it was is my shitty old exhaust system!
So we swapped that out, and she sounds SO much nicer.
Old system:
Racing Beat RestrictaFlow collected 2" (OD)* header (1.75" ID)*
Rusting Beat PrimaRattle resonator (1.75" ID)
Rusting Beat PrimaRattle muffler (melted)
Stock tubes (1.75")
*ID = inner diameter
*OD = outer diameter
New system:
Rotary Shack Maxpower collected 3" header (OD)
Racing Beat universal 3" resonator (OD)
Racing Beat PR Extreme 2.75" muffler (ID?? not sure on that one)
3" tubes (2.75" ID)
I had the work done by Pat Dotson @ Mach 1 Mufflers of Spokane, WA.
Mufflers Spokane, WA - Mach 1 Muffler
If you live within 100 miles of Spokane, this is THE shop to hit up. AMAZING work - like watching a master artist at work. I was quoted higher by other shops whos quality, knowing from past experience, was significantly lower.
I hung around the shop, helped out here and there, and chatted with some of Pat's buddies. This is an old school racing crew, going generations back. Naturally they were totally stoked on the wankel, and had lots of stories of buddies who raced them back in the day.
An interesting story he related to me was the northwest Mazda presence in the 80's totally dropped the rotary from their lineup - instead they were pushing the piston engines! His buddy would have none of that, so ended up becoming licensed with NSU - not to import and sell them mind you, but to get direct line for racing parts. He took an http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NSU_Ro_80 and completely built it out. Was an insane racer. The next level was when they put the same powerplant into the http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NSU_Prinz
Anyhow - I have fallen in love (obsession?) with my car on a whole new level now that it doesnt sound like a frickin 2 stroke putter with drinking straws for mufflers.
And thats about all i have to say about that.
~Geoff
Today I FINALLY fixed my exhaust rattle! It turns out, all it was is my shitty old exhaust system!
So we swapped that out, and she sounds SO much nicer.
Old system:
Racing Beat RestrictaFlow collected 2" (OD)* header (1.75" ID)*
Rusting Beat PrimaRattle resonator (1.75" ID)
Rusting Beat PrimaRattle muffler (melted)
Stock tubes (1.75")
*ID = inner diameter
*OD = outer diameter
New system:
Rotary Shack Maxpower collected 3" header (OD)
Racing Beat universal 3" resonator (OD)
Racing Beat PR Extreme 2.75" muffler (ID?? not sure on that one)
3" tubes (2.75" ID)
I had the work done by Pat Dotson @ Mach 1 Mufflers of Spokane, WA.
Mufflers Spokane, WA - Mach 1 Muffler
If you live within 100 miles of Spokane, this is THE shop to hit up. AMAZING work - like watching a master artist at work. I was quoted higher by other shops whos quality, knowing from past experience, was significantly lower.
I hung around the shop, helped out here and there, and chatted with some of Pat's buddies. This is an old school racing crew, going generations back. Naturally they were totally stoked on the wankel, and had lots of stories of buddies who raced them back in the day.
An interesting story he related to me was the northwest Mazda presence in the 80's totally dropped the rotary from their lineup - instead they were pushing the piston engines! His buddy would have none of that, so ended up becoming licensed with NSU - not to import and sell them mind you, but to get direct line for racing parts. He took an http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NSU_Ro_80 and completely built it out. Was an insane racer. The next level was when they put the same powerplant into the http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NSU_Prinz
Anyhow - I have fallen in love (obsession?) with my car on a whole new level now that it doesnt sound like a frickin 2 stroke putter with drinking straws for mufflers.
And thats about all i have to say about that.
~Geoff
07-03-13, 11:27 PM
#3258
Roller into Roadster
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Nice looking exhaust ioTus.
Cleaned a lot of the grime off the inside of my wheels. I did not realize that they were actually chrome on the inside too, LoL!
Cleaned a lot of the grime off the inside of my wheels. I did not realize that they were actually chrome on the inside too, LoL!
07-04-13, 12:54 PM
#3259
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Pulled the wiper assembly and lubed it up. No rust found and everything looked almost new
except the electrical connections for the wiper assembly. It crumbled in my hand when I went to
unplug it, Nice. Anyway, taped it up real good before reassembly. I'll have to see if I can find
those connectors on my next JY visit.
Oh and lubing the assembly didn't really make it any faster at wiping. The motor is just kind of
slow compared to modern cars.
except the electrical connections for the wiper assembly. It crumbled in my hand when I went to
unplug it, Nice. Anyway, taped it up real good before reassembly. I'll have to see if I can find
those connectors on my next JY visit.
Oh and lubing the assembly didn't really make it any faster at wiping. The motor is just kind of
slow compared to modern cars.
07-04-13, 11:48 PM
#3262
What did I do today? Not nearly enough.
I have found that another place you should look when evaluating a car for purchase is the front hinges on the sun roof. Originally these are coated with some sort of plastic. Over the years that plastic has split along the edges and moisture has gotten underneath the plastic and they have rusted. I spent a good portion of the day messing with these hinges for my GSL-SE. I got them on a replacement sun roof which was from a parted out car. I looked at my other metal roof and that one also has one rusty hinge. I cleaned the rust off but the metal is badly pitted now. I applied one light coat of primer and I am thinking of applying undercoating on it to replace the original plastic coating. I will post pics after I finish messing.
Happy 4th everyone!
I have found that another place you should look when evaluating a car for purchase is the front hinges on the sun roof. Originally these are coated with some sort of plastic. Over the years that plastic has split along the edges and moisture has gotten underneath the plastic and they have rusted. I spent a good portion of the day messing with these hinges for my GSL-SE. I got them on a replacement sun roof which was from a parted out car. I looked at my other metal roof and that one also has one rusty hinge. I cleaned the rust off but the metal is badly pitted now. I applied one light coat of primer and I am thinking of applying undercoating on it to replace the original plastic coating. I will post pics after I finish messing.
Happy 4th everyone!
07-05-13, 12:33 AM
#3263
Junior Member
Put in a new alternator and started cleaning the engine area along with cleaned stains that were on my tires. Sanded and painted my charcoal filter to match the body paint.
07-05-13, 03:55 AM
#3264
@ioTus: I didn't use WD40 to soften the gaskets, but I did use plenty of solvent spray, which did help a lot. But in the end, it needs time and elbow grease. I'm just glad it's in the past. Also, sweet exhaust! I got mine in earlier this week and got all new mounts. It looks amazing. No idea how it sounds yet as the car is still up on jack stands...something I'd hoped would change this evening 
This evening, I had a friend over and we put the GSL-SE axle on the car. I've got custom watts links and lower control arms w/spherical bearings. Things were going well until we got to the watts links...they wouldn't fit. I know I measured these things and they were exactly the same size of the original links. After 20 minutes of scratching our heads, we found the mistake...the pivot that the links attach to was on upside down.
The other thing we ran into is that the rear soft brake line that Dragon Auto sent me wasn't the correct one...it was for the drum brake models. I could kick myself for not realizing this...I don't even think I looked at the bag when it arrived. Now I've got to go get the rear brake line from the local parts store. Which means waiting...again
Got everything tightened down and ready to pick up again tomorrow or the next day. Still have to make sure the caster is right since the links are adjustable. One thing I noticed is that the driveshaft doesn't slide all the way snug against the tail shaft of the tranny. Is this normal? There's about an inch or two more that it could slide forward onto. It locks and turns the wheels, so that seems fine.
I tried turning the wheels just for grins and much to my surprise, I heard the sound of spinning driveshaft scraping against exhaust heat shielding. The only heat shielding I hadn't removed from the car to accommodate the RB street port exhaust. I guess allowing the driveshaft to rest on it for the past week wasn't such a good idea. I thought, incorrectly, that I could unbolt it and slide it around the exhaust and off the car. Wrong. After fighting it, I did the thing I should have done before...unbolted the presilencer from the header. Got that !*$&@ head shield out and bolted everything back up. Finished at around 1:15am.
So it's mostly there. I still have to make adjustments to the caster, hook up the parking brakes and the rear soft brake line (when it arrives), and bleed the brakes. THEN I should be able to get the car back down on the ground and start it. I'm hopeful I'll get this done this weekend.
fm
This evening, I had a friend over and we put the GSL-SE axle on the car. I've got custom watts links and lower control arms w/spherical bearings. Things were going well until we got to the watts links...they wouldn't fit. I know I measured these things and they were exactly the same size of the original links. After 20 minutes of scratching our heads, we found the mistake...the pivot that the links attach to was on upside down.
The other thing we ran into is that the rear soft brake line that Dragon Auto sent me wasn't the correct one...it was for the drum brake models. I could kick myself for not realizing this...I don't even think I looked at the bag when it arrived. Now I've got to go get the rear brake line from the local parts store. Which means waiting...again
Got everything tightened down and ready to pick up again tomorrow or the next day. Still have to make sure the caster is right since the links are adjustable. One thing I noticed is that the driveshaft doesn't slide all the way snug against the tail shaft of the tranny. Is this normal? There's about an inch or two more that it could slide forward onto. It locks and turns the wheels, so that seems fine.
I tried turning the wheels just for grins and much to my surprise, I heard the sound of spinning driveshaft scraping against exhaust heat shielding. The only heat shielding I hadn't removed from the car to accommodate the RB street port exhaust.
I guess allowing the driveshaft to rest on it for the past week wasn't such a good idea. I thought, incorrectly, that I could unbolt it and slide it around the exhaust and off the car. Wrong. After fighting it, I did the thing I should have done before...unbolted the presilencer from the header. Got that !*$&@ head shield out and bolted everything back up. Finished at around 1:15am. So it's mostly there. I still have to make adjustments to the caster, hook up the parking brakes and the rear soft brake line (when it arrives), and bleed the brakes. THEN I should be able to get the car back down on the ground and start it. I'm hopeful I'll get this done this weekend.
fm
Last edited by Fungus Mungus; 07-05-13 at 03:59 AM.
07-05-13, 11:28 AM
#3265
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Pulled the wiper assembly and lubed it up. No rust found and everything looked almost new
except the electrical connections for the wiper assembly. It crumbled in my hand when I went to
unplug it, Nice. Anyway, taped it up real good before reassembly. I'll have to see if I can find
those connectors on my next JY visit.
Oh and lubing the assembly didn't really make it any faster at wiping. The motor is just kind of
slow compared to modern cars.
except the electrical connections for the wiper assembly. It crumbled in my hand when I went to
unplug it, Nice. Anyway, taped it up real good before reassembly. I'll have to see if I can find
those connectors on my next JY visit.
Oh and lubing the assembly didn't really make it any faster at wiping. The motor is just kind of
slow compared to modern cars.
07-05-13, 11:58 PM
#3267
I cut a channel to connect primaries in the 1" carb spacer for the Edelbrock. This improved the idle quality a lot. Tip in is amazing (but it was before the channel too, just nicer now).
You cut the channel in the primaries ONLY!
It sits atop an RB intake manifold. There is just enough space for the electric choke to fit next to an S4 NA waterpump with FB steel thermostat fitting swapped on IF you use a 1" carb spacer. The old school aluminum thermostat fittings are too tall to work as well. Basically a Holley will work fine no problem, but the Edelbrock is a wide carb and requires the 1" spacer and steel thermostat deal. The more you know.
Next up, gotta fix a flooding problem in left turn decel conditions. I think running it on a pierburg fuel pump with no regulator is causing it. Gotta swap in a holley FPR and we'll be good for a break in. It needs 1500 miles due to new bearings. Then the big Carter pump goes in.
You cut the channel in the primaries ONLY!
It sits atop an RB intake manifold. There is just enough space for the electric choke to fit next to an S4 NA waterpump with FB steel thermostat fitting swapped on IF you use a 1" carb spacer. The old school aluminum thermostat fittings are too tall to work as well. Basically a Holley will work fine no problem, but the Edelbrock is a wide carb and requires the 1" spacer and steel thermostat deal. The more you know.
Next up, gotta fix a flooding problem in left turn decel conditions. I think running it on a pierburg fuel pump with no regulator is causing it. Gotta swap in a holley FPR and we'll be good for a break in. It needs 1500 miles due to new bearings. Then the big Carter pump goes in.
07-06-13, 12:00 AM
#3268
If I remember correctly, that connector is one of the 2-terminal "T" connectors, which is like the most common connector on the car. The terminals come out pretty easily with a small screwdriver, so you can just replace the shell, using the original terminals. Just find a good shell from inside the car, on pretty much any Japanese car. If you can find a black one, it should last longer than the original white one. Better UV resistance, which is what kills them, being exposed under the cowl vent like they are.
Um. Now my brain is signalling that it might be one of the 3-terminal connectors. Same applies, just a little harder to find.
Um. Now my brain is signalling that it might be one of the 3-terminal connectors. Same applies, just a little harder to find.
07-06-13, 12:25 AM
#3269
I cut a channel to connect primaries in the 1" carb spacer for the Edelbrock. This improved the idle quality a lot. Tip in is amazing (but it was before the channel too, just nicer now).
You cut the channel in the primaries ONLY!
It sits atop an RB intake manifold. There is just enough space for the electric choke to fit next to an S4 NA waterpump with FB steel thermostat fitting swapped on IF you use a 1" carb spacer. The old school aluminum thermostat fittings are too tall to work as well. Basically a Holley will work fine no problem, but the Edelbrock is a wide carb and requires the 1" spacer and steel thermostat deal. The more you know.
Next up, gotta fix a flooding problem in left turn decel conditions. I think running it on a pierburg fuel pump with no regulator is causing it. Gotta swap in a holley FPR and we'll be good for a break in. It needs 1500 miles due to new bearings. Then the big Carter pump goes in.
You cut the channel in the primaries ONLY!
It sits atop an RB intake manifold. There is just enough space for the electric choke to fit next to an S4 NA waterpump with FB steel thermostat fitting swapped on IF you use a 1" carb spacer. The old school aluminum thermostat fittings are too tall to work as well. Basically a Holley will work fine no problem, but the Edelbrock is a wide carb and requires the 1" spacer and steel thermostat deal. The more you know.
Next up, gotta fix a flooding problem in left turn decel conditions. I think running it on a pierburg fuel pump with no regulator is causing it. Gotta swap in a holley FPR and we'll be good for a break in. It needs 1500 miles due to new bearings. Then the big Carter pump goes in.
I've thought about adding baffles in the bowels, but the 7 remains my daily driver and I'm not racing it so... lazyness??? I do know that there are baffle kits for people that put edelbrocks on rock crawlers seems like that would help.
07-06-13, 09:27 AM
#3270
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I found and disabled (cable & plug) the hot start assist feature. The cable was kinked. Do I need to find some soleniod to disable?
I understand better why my adjustments have been leading to a car that wont' start... I warm the engine, Fine tune, test drive... and try to restart. Not knowing of such a thing as a "hot start", I have been pretty frustrated.
The new radiator hose forced the leak to the radiator and I got some leak fix product for that.
ALSO, having a low battery issue, I tightened the alternator belt, took her to O'Riley's for a charging system check up and looks all good. THEN overnight a total drain...... aurghhhhhh.
I have her back on a slow charger to start again... I don't even know where to star looking (for a short causing the overnight drain)? I'm open to suggestions...
I understand better why my adjustments have been leading to a car that wont' start... I warm the engine, Fine tune, test drive... and try to restart. Not knowing of such a thing as a "hot start", I have been pretty frustrated.
The new radiator hose forced the leak to the radiator and I got some leak fix product for that.
ALSO, having a low battery issue, I tightened the alternator belt, took her to O'Riley's for a charging system check up and looks all good. THEN overnight a total drain...... aurghhhhhh.
I have her back on a slow charger to start again... I don't even know where to star looking (for a short causing the overnight drain)? I'm open to suggestions...
07-06-13, 11:38 AM
#3271
I found a place to buy the connector pins; someone else turned up a site that sold the actual shells.
Wish I could remember the name. The name had a small-animal name in it.
Yesterday I finally had time to pull my diff out and start installing my old spare. Hope it helps with my 'shudder' problem. I suspect I may need a new clutch disk, though.
I hate doing clutch/transmission work under the car - - so hard to do solo. Should have done it when I had the engine out 18 months ago, but time and budget pressures got the better of me then.
Wish I could remember the name. The name had a small-animal name in it.
Yesterday I finally had time to pull my diff out and start installing my old spare. Hope it helps with my 'shudder' problem. I suspect I may need a new clutch disk, though.
I hate doing clutch/transmission work under the car - - so hard to do solo. Should have done it when I had the engine out 18 months ago, but time and budget pressures got the better of me then.
07-06-13, 05:28 PM
#3272
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The info is in this thread in the archive (thx to SgtFox):
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...ectors-878979/
07-06-13, 10:32 PM
#3273
I had a humbling conversation with a former RX-7 owner, if interested read on:
Preface - My manager was supposed to open the store at 8am this morning and I called him at 8:03am since he wasn't there yet. He is better than 30min away so I knew we had a wait. One of the gentlemen waiting for the store to open started talking to a coworker and I. In talking he mentioned that he had an old Mazda. I asked if it was an RX-7 and he said "Yeah, it was" in a somewhat somber tone. I showed him pictures of my TII swap and of my car and he mentioned that it brought back memories of his car.
Story as I can best recall, in his words [paraphrase]:
"I got a 85 GSL-SE in 89 for cheap because the PO thought it had a bad engine and [turned out it had a bad cat so I took care of it]. I only had it for two months when I totaled it out. I was driving down the highway in the left lane with a tractor trailer to my right. A 16 year old girl blew a tire two cars in front of me and decided to pull onto the left half shoulder and leave half of her car sticking into my lane. My reaction was to swerve to avoid hitting her at 60+mph but with the semi trailer directly to my right it turned out to be a bad idea. In braking and maneuvering around her the semi trailer caught the rear end of the 7 and sucked me and the car underneath the rear trailer set of tires. It managed to drag the car and I over 1/4 of a mile. The entire car from the driver's side rear quarter diagonal through the passenger side of the 7 was crushed, the seat was squished like an accordion. The only panels that weren't completely destroyed were the driver's quarter and part of the hood. The first responders that saw the car thought there was no way I could have survived. [The girl ended up being charged due to the large pileup of cars, including mine, that she caused by not going into the correct lane. The semi driver and responders all thought I was dead and told me I needed to go buy a lottery ticket and that I had good chances of winning on that day. To this day I still don't feel safe looking under semi trailers.]"
Guy was a little teary eyed about the whole situation and it really struck home to me. I get nervous every time I drive the car and this just reaffirmed my caution.
Drive safe guys, you never know what's out there.
Preface - My manager was supposed to open the store at 8am this morning and I called him at 8:03am since he wasn't there yet. He is better than 30min away so I knew we had a wait. One of the gentlemen waiting for the store to open started talking to a coworker and I. In talking he mentioned that he had an old Mazda. I asked if it was an RX-7 and he said "Yeah, it was" in a somewhat somber tone. I showed him pictures of my TII swap and of my car and he mentioned that it brought back memories of his car.
Story as I can best recall, in his words [paraphrase]:
"I got a 85 GSL-SE in 89 for cheap because the PO thought it had a bad engine and [turned out it had a bad cat so I took care of it]. I only had it for two months when I totaled it out. I was driving down the highway in the left lane with a tractor trailer to my right. A 16 year old girl blew a tire two cars in front of me and decided to pull onto the left half shoulder and leave half of her car sticking into my lane. My reaction was to swerve to avoid hitting her at 60+mph but with the semi trailer directly to my right it turned out to be a bad idea. In braking and maneuvering around her the semi trailer caught the rear end of the 7 and sucked me and the car underneath the rear trailer set of tires. It managed to drag the car and I over 1/4 of a mile. The entire car from the driver's side rear quarter diagonal through the passenger side of the 7 was crushed, the seat was squished like an accordion. The only panels that weren't completely destroyed were the driver's quarter and part of the hood. The first responders that saw the car thought there was no way I could have survived. [The girl ended up being charged due to the large pileup of cars, including mine, that she caused by not going into the correct lane. The semi driver and responders all thought I was dead and told me I needed to go buy a lottery ticket and that I had good chances of winning on that day. To this day I still don't feel safe looking under semi trailers.]"
Guy was a little teary eyed about the whole situation and it really struck home to me. I get nervous every time I drive the car and this just reaffirmed my caution.
Drive safe guys, you never know what's out there.
07-07-13, 08:20 AM
#3274
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How many layers does it take?
Nice that the PO was intent on painting the car before selling it...
The quality of the ground connection kept coming up in conversation in review of my battery drain issue...
perhaps the sort-a-lame battery connection? I've had worse, but got a new connector... and gee what ABOUT that paint? the other end of the cable? the GROUND... How many layers of primer/paint does it take to render that contact inaccessible?
My motorcycle safety strategy is to understand you are INVISIBLE to all other drivers. It kinda tickles THAT sense in me, when my 7 seems small in the traffic (often).
The quality of the ground connection kept coming up in conversation in review of my battery drain issue...
perhaps the sort-a-lame battery connection? I've had worse, but got a new connector... and gee what ABOUT that paint? the other end of the cable? the GROUND... How many layers of primer/paint does it take to render that contact inaccessible?
My motorcycle safety strategy is to understand you are INVISIBLE to all other drivers. It kinda tickles THAT sense in me, when my 7 seems small in the traffic (often).
