MattG

iTrader: (2)

Hey,

Been a LONG time since ive posted, I used to live here in my teen years, but life happens, and now im back one final time.

I will be posting my 83 Limited edition up for sale at the end of this month, because its been stored at my mothers house in Texas, shes retired and moving. Its time to let go.

Little history on the car, My father bought the car brand new in 1983 in California, Over time moved to Texas. The rear rotor lost compression, and I put in a new Atkins Stage 2 streetport motor in 2004. I drove it for awhile throughout high school and some college. I bought a jeep, and the 7 fell to the way side. I moved to Connecticut in 2009 leaving behind the 7, always saying I would come get it once I got established, I returned back home a few times and did start/drive the 7 once, now flash forward 10 years. Im established with a family, and have no need for the car anymore.


Now im going to be traveling back home to help my mother pack up to prepare her house for sale, this is my one chance to get the 7 back up and running. We all know you get more $$$ for a running car.

My question to the 7 gurus is what should I do to prep the 7 from years of sitting. Im going to pick up a new battery, 4 fresh plugs (NGK only) but not sure what else. Ive read the Tech articles, but looking for first hand info

Thanks in advance,
Matt

88turbotime

My T-II sat for 3 years, then when I finally figured out the problem (electrical) it started right up. Ran like crap at first but it cleared itself out on it's own.

I say we try to get all the gas out of it and put some fresh in, and you might be surprised.

The 83 is fuel injected, right?

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

For sure, you'll want to drain the old fuel and stick on a new fuel filter. You may want to buy 2 filters as the tank could have a bunch of gunk and / or rust inside. May need to rebuild the carb too, fuel can turn to varnish over time. Get some seafoam to help clean out the engine / system. I agree, it could start out rough and get better after its run some.

GSLSEforme

You will need to drain the gas from tank,it will be seriously degraded. Once drained,put in 2-3 gallons of fresh gas. Remove air cleaner,remove both fuel lines coming to carburetor and put them into a container,bucket,etc.
Put new battery in and turn the key to run to let fuel pump run to purge fuel lines of old gas. Run long enough that gas coming out is clear. You should have no problem telling difference from old to new gas from the color and smell. Once you’ve done that,replace fuel filter and you should be good for the most part.
There is a possibility the fuel pump may not work properly or at all. When ethanol fuel dries up/evaporates,it leaves nasty stuff behind with a putty like consistency or like crusty fudge brownies that clog up and prevent pump from operating.
If fuel pump won’t run,check for voltage/ground at pump to be sure it’s getting power. If it is you could try tapping on it to break it free,but if clogged up you’ll need a new pump.
Same goes for carburetor,often old gas as it breaks down and leaves the gunk behind can plug up fuel circuits in carb. The smallest circuits/jets clog up1st and these would be for the idle circuit and symptoms would be that engine dies once choke is pushed in.
Another possibility is the needles in the float bowls that allow fuel in and shut off flow when full may be stuck.

Symptoms for this would be no start from not letting any fuel in to not shutting flow of fuel off when bowls are full and overflowing fuel into the engine. You can check for these conditions before you try to start engine. There is a glass window in each float bowl that let’s you see how much fuel in there. The level should be 1/2 way up the window. The front window is easy to see,there’s another on the opposite side of carb you may need a mirror to see.
Turn key on and let fuel pump fill up carb. If no fuel shows in windows,the needles are stuck closed. You can try freeing them by tapping(lightly) on top of carb with screwdriver handle near where fuel lines come in and watch windows to see if fuel comes in. If needles are stuck open the bowls will be full and fuel will start to dribble or run down into venturies,flooding engine with fuel. Again,tapping on top of carb may unstick them. If either of these conditions exist and tapping to free needles doesn’t work,the carb will need to be removed and disassembled and cleaned and put back together with new gaskets/needles. It is preferable to try to clean and save the original needles as replacements that come in overhaul kit are not machined properly and can cause flooding issues also.
You may have none of these problems,no two cars exhibit same symptoms in trying to restart after a long hibernation.

While spark plugs are out,pour couple table spoons of engine oil or premix down each primary Venturi while holding throttle open. If you have a syringe,inject a tablespoon into leading spark plug hole and turn the engine over by hand about 6 revolutions to spread the oil all around the rotor chamber to lubricate everything and put your new plugs in. When the engine starts it will put out a substantial cloud of smoke for several minutes til all the oil is burned away/so let your neighbors know.

Check to make sure oil and coolant are full before you attempt starting engine. You will want to change oil/filter after you get engine running and warmed up and good idea to change coolant too.May seem like a lot of work,but this maintenance will be a selling feature for the car. It is a good idea to change all the fluids,prospective buyers look for that kind of maintenance having been done recently.
All this depends on how much you want to do to sell the car.

Last,check brake/clutch fluid. If clutch pedal has little resistance the system may need to be bled with fresh fluid. The brake rotors/pads/shoes/drums may be rusty,worst case scenario won’t let car roll.
After getting the car running,you will want to drive it to get brake system up to temperature so you can evaluate for sticking brake calipers or wheel cylinders.

A lot of what you have to do to get the car sellable will depend on environment where the car was stored.
If damp/wet climate,more likely to have rust issues with brake system. Again every car is different in what’s needed to wake it up after a long nap.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

ive had a couple of cars that sat for many many years that just fired up and ran. you do need to make sure it has oil and coolant, but i wait ti change it until after the engine is confirmed to be ok

MattG

iTrader: (2)

I just wanted to give an update on the car. Good news and bad... Good news it runs, bad news I sold it...lol

@GSLSEforme your advice was spot on for all items. @88turbotime I couldn't have done it with out ya bro!!!

I bought a new battery, swapped in a new clean rust free fuel tank I had in my parts stock pile, changed the fuel filter, got the fuel pump running again after a few love taps, flushed the fuel lines, poured pre mix down the carb and into the spark plug holes, turned motor over by hand to spread it around. It needed a new clutch master, and the brake and clutch system flushed to get any sort of pressure in both, checked the oil I had just changed it when i stored it and it was still nice and golden and topped off the coolant once it was running. The carb is prob gonna need a rebuild as its leaking a little, but it ran solid!!!!! Except for the massive clunking coming from the rear diff. I dont know what happened but it sounds like some major issues in the rear end, lots of play in the back lash. I dont know how that happens from sitting...

Here is a start up video of it coming to life, Thanks again!!!!


Also a little third gear pull action