My SA22C has a swapped engine from approx an 83 rx7.
She has been running pretty rough lately so I have decided to replace the plugs. First it has two different plugs... My leading plugs are small 5/8 hex and the trailing plugs are 13/16... problem with that is the trailing plugs do not have room to get a socket on them and it looks like the P.O. broke the bezel off of the case for them to fit..


Lower bezel looks damaged




closer shot




rear trailing plug




No room for socket.

 

You could grind the ring down a little on the housing. Maybe that would give you some room to bite. Or take a nut roughly the same size and spot weld it to the plug and back it out that way. Or cut a notch into it with a cuttoff wheel and tap it around with a hammer and screw driver.

 

And now you prob realize the FB 12As require a special thin-walled socket! gads....

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

Know anybody with a lathe? Looks like a job for a socket with the nose turned down.

 

So you got the front trailing out ok?

 

The front lower plug came out after a little hammer session. The rear is too close to the steering gear to get a hammer even close to it. So i am stuck finding alternate methods of removal. Once i get it out though i will try to sand down the edges so plugs can be installed easier.

Can i use the smaller plugs in all 4 positions? and which is the trailing and leading, I read somewhere that the top is actually the trailing.

 

just use stock plugs, they have the hex in the right place to use normal tools, which is why the housing has those bosses cast into it.

the top is the trailing, and a good somewhere to read this is the engine, its labeled, T for Trailing (or top), and L for Leading (or lower)

 

When you replace the plugs, use NGK BR8EQ-14 spark plugs.

You can use a chisel and a hammer and turn the plug out from the top hitting the corners of the hex section with the chisel. Should loosen if its not crossthreaded or overtorqued.

 

This happens when somebody (bad previous owner!!) Installs the wrong plugs.

This was the case with my car and I needed a thin wall socket to remove. The raised part of the rotor housing is a mistake proofing feature to help prevent the wring plugs from being installed in the first place, potentially damaging the apex seal and rotor...

Was a big relief when I got mine out and proper NGKs installed.

 

Good afternoon. I am writing to you from Argentina. I am in need of spark plugs for my 1980 RX / SA22C. Please which ones would you recommend and where could I buy them? I can't afford the most expensive ones, but I don't want something too cheap and of low quality either ...

By the way... and wires, coils and ingnition cap too.

 

Are those spark plugs a good option? If so, I will take note of your advice.

 

Greetings Argentina.
Yes, your 1980 uses NGK BR8EQ-14. Cannot say they are cheap at about $8-12 each in the USA, but to try to find another plug model that is 'cheaper' will just end in wasted money and a poor running car. The RX7s are very specific about what to use for spark plugs!!
Distributor cap, wires and rotor are more easily available from non-Mazda sources. If you have access to Ebay, there are plenty (again, in the USA at least) available there at a variety of prices.

VERY important to note that installing plugs requires only HAND THREAD into the engine, then maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a wrench!!!!
Do.Not.Over.Tighten!!!! And on your 1980, no special socket is required as the housing has plenty of room for a regular one (assuming you have the correct original or replacement engine). Finally, you MUST apply some sort of ANTI-SEIZE thread-coating to the plugs.

Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

Those are what I run. Mine have the 4 ground straps and single electrode.

 

what about Denso plugs? for reasons unknown, I bought some Denso to replace the NKG's.

Installing plugs is tricky. Use antiseaze, hand tighten them, and when you do the last tightening grab the rachet close to the socket, don't over tighten them. You can easy strip the threads by over tightening them.