austinrx7bill

I purchased an '82 GSL almost a year-and-a-half ago, and after clearing the decks of some other car projects, am finally getting around to working on it.

It was an RV tow-behind with 60K miles, so most of that was probably rolling, i.e., not under powertrain propulsion. Mechanically it is super, super tight.

I have 1 mechanical question, several cosmetic questions.

Mechanical: The car is hard to start when cold cold. Even with the choke pulled, it takes a lot of cranking (7-10 seconds) and selective pumping the accelerator to get it started. Once warm, it turns right over. Idle is at about/just above 500rpm, which feels a little low -- it never stalls when idling but "feels" like it could/wants to. Suggestions on what I can do to improve cold startability? Adjust choke? raise idle? both? something else? Want to fix before I burn up the starter.

Cosmetic: Interior (Maroon) is in good shape, though most of the plastic trim is pretty brittle and some trim is faded as well. Seats are VGC.

I have a line on a replacement dash (the current one is cracked). The replacement would be from an '85. Will that fit on an '82 or was there a design change (or two) between those model years.

The plastic hinges on the smuggler/storage boxes behind the seats have long since failed. Is there a solution/repair for that? Maybe a heavy heavy grade tape that will emulate the plastic hinge action?

What's the best vendor(s) for parts?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Idle is low, should be around 750. Before messing with it run change the fuel filter and run some seafoam through it and drive it a hard for awhile and see if it straightens up. Then adjust the idle up to where it belongs and see how it goes.

84-84 interior is different than 82 but dash may be made to fit. May look odd.

Vendors for parts: MAZDA, mazdatrix.com, atkinsrotary, racingbeat. No one vendor for everything.

austinrx7bill

Thanks.

Where do I find the fuel filter as it appears that there are two types available for the RX7: metal and clear.

Can you provide more detail about what's different between the 1982 and 1985 dashes. Maybe someone with an '85 can send some pictures to compare against.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

either will work but i prefer the clear one.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,1982,rx-7,1.1l+r2,1192250,fuel+&+air,fuel+filter,6200

see pix in the other thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-gene...erent-1132038/

7aull

iTrader: (2)

I think tho "technically" the new-style 84 dash would bolt into your car, the fact you would need the underlying wire harness, some of which is hard-wired to your eng com AND you'd also need to swap over the whole heat/vent system (the late one is the touch/button type rather than the purely mechanical wire-actuated yours is). Sounds nightmarish when all you need is a new dash pad. That is a bit of work as it is, tho doable. Also ebay has a bunch of dash CAPS that fit over the whole dash FS right now too, as an easy glue-over alternative...

Stu Aull
80GS
AZ

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

I would 2nd the seafoam suggestion before messing too much. These are not fuel injected engines but carbureted, w/a mechanical choke. Compared to modern vehicles, it may seem hard to start. It wasn't uncommon to have a specific start up sequence like you might have with a gas powered chain saw or trimmer. 2 jabs of the throttle, half choke and starts on the 3rd pull, or similar.

My normal routine is to give it a couple squirts with the throttle, pull the choke out BTW 3/4 and and full, then slowly push it in while cranking it over. Also, these engines were made to rev. Running it hard every now and then will help to loosen and break up old carbon and deposits.

austinrx7bill

They certainly do rev freely, really only come on the power curve when most other engines are topping out.

I'll try the seafoam as well as replacing the filter and adjusting the idle which is definitely low (bet 400-500). Should U pour the seafoam in the tank or directly into the carb or is there a vacuum hose I can use to suck it into the intake like I do with most of my other vehicles?

austinrx7bill

BTW, I notice that the choke is self-closing, i.e., after a cold start it slowly returns to a non-choke state. Is there a control on the choke that causes it to behave like that or is it just friction on the cable that holds it open and it should be closed manually?

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Seafoam-
1) while someone is controlling throttle/gas you can add SEAFOAM into carb mouth. Ideally without stalling. Be aware LOTS of smoke so don't annoy the neighbors!
2) yes in tank, tho this is a more gradual process that means driving it. Would do both myself. I run a full can of SF thru once a yr.

Choke-
is magnetically controlled by temp and will/should retract once eng temps reach a certain setting. It should just snap closed tho, not work its way in slowly.

Stu Aull
80GS
AZ

austinrx7bill

Maybe it does snap in quickly. I assumed slowly because one minute when I look at it, it is out, the next moment I look at it, it's in (assume = ***).

And what about the fuel filter. Have a Haynes manual for 1979-1985, but in Rock Auto it seems to imply that the filter type/design changed midyear (Thru Chassis Serial #610654 for the thru type -- barbs on opposite ends of the filter can -- and from From Chassis Serial #610655 for the type with both barbs on the "lid" of the filter see thru plastic can).

Guess I am actually going to have to crawl under the car to get a look at it and see which one I have?

Again, as it will be my first journey under the car, some advice on where to look (ahead or behind rear wheel, on the left or right, etc.) and where to jack it up would be most appreciated.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Rear jackpoint is the diff pumpkin and place jacks under the lower control arm supports. From jack points can vary depending on your jack and the height of the car. Typically the center of the front crossmember is best to get the entire front end in the air. Jacks can be placed under the joint on frame where the front subframe joins the chassis or under the mounts for the torsion bars at the front of the car. You can also jack from the torsion bar mount and place the jack under the frame as well. This will require jacking each side to whole front end up on the air but its easier to get the jack under there.

The fuel filter is under the car on the drivers side just ahead of the rear axle. Very easy to get to once the car is in the air. You can use either filter but we like the cheapie plastic ones cause we can see when they get dirty.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

It's a fuel filter, don't overthink it. As far as location and type, it should be back by the pump and tank. It could be changed by a previous owner already or maybe a 2nd one added up by the carb somewhere. You just need to look it over and apply basic mechanical common sense. Would be a good time to follow the lines all the way to the engine. Look for signs of other trouble like rusted holes in exhaust parts, worn steering ect...

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you could look at the VIN number too...