So I installed my gear today and i thought to myself. I need to do a write up so here it is. THE END ALL TO THE KIA GEAR THREADS

ok things you need

PARTS:
83.5-85 drive shaft
83.5-85 rear end (this is the big axle rear end)
96+ Kia sportage 4X4 front 3rd member.. (also 94)
1 bolt/lock washer (dont remember size just take one from the RX7 3rd member I got 8 new ones)
blue RTV
1 brake cleaner or carb cleaner
rags
2 zip ties

TOOLS:
jack/ lift
2 jackstands
10mm wrench
12mm socket
12mm wrench
14mm socket
14mm wrench
impact screwdriver
BFH (big ******* hammer)
flat head screw driver
and a few other wrenches and stuff i cant think of right now

.................................................. .................................................. ..............................

ok here are some pics to show the kia gear next to the rx7. And to go over what is diff about the 2 of them... there is only 3 things diff

nothing diff in this pic


ok in this pic there is a mounting hole you will not need


in this 1 you can see that all the holes are in the same place... the diff is the kia has a little bigger hole.. not a problem


ok this is the 3rd and biggets diff... there is no lSD the kia gear is an open diff. This can be fixed 1 of 2 ways.. get the lsd out of the rx7 rear end or WELD IT you can see witch way i opted for






Ok I didn't get any pics of the install its self but its pretty str8 up so I will only throw in some tips

drain axle housing

jack up the car. put jack stands under the car( i like to put them on the subframe/ lower trailing arm mount. ok now that the jack stands are holding the car up. and you tested them to make sure they are not going to fall. pull the e-brake up brake the lug bolts lose. (let the e-brake down now or it will be hard to remove brakes )

ok pull the calipers off use the zip tie to hold the caliper up.. you can hang the zip tie from the top trailing arm bolt

use the impact screwdriver to remove the 2 screws holding the brake rotors on...(if you don't have a impact screwdriver use a torch around the screw get it nice hot and back the screws out if you just try and back the out you may strip them )

ok almost there

ok now you need to take the brake line off from the dust cover... now this is not the RIGHT way but its works well if you don't want to lose all your brake fluid.. use a flat head screwdriver and hammer and pop the clip up that is holding the line to the dust cover now use 2 wrenches 1 on the rubber line side and 1 on the hard line side unhook them take them out of the dust cover now hook them back together so they stop leaking

there are 3 12mm bolts holding the dust cover on the axle housing remove these now the axle is ready to come out... you can use the hammer to pry it out(not beat it out)put the ballpean side behind the axle where the brake rotor bolts to and the head of the hammer on the caliper bolt hole and push it should slide right out

repeat to other side

ok remove the 4 nuts holding the drive shaft to the 3rd member and slid the drive shaft back into the trans more.(don't pull the drive shaft all the way out of the trans unless you want a mess) just push it off the side out of the way

remove all 8 bolts from the 3rd member(its not going to fall out at this point) ok it is got a little weight to it so be ready. do a little tip tap tappy to the 3rd member with a hammer(we are not trying ti kill it) it should come lose and brace it and pull it out( i put a trash bag on the ground with some rags cause the 3rd member is going to spill gear lube out

use some carb/brake cleaner around the housing. make sure its nice and clean take off any old rtv. put a nice bead of rtv around the housing and the kia 3rd member slide str8 in(you do not need to do any grinding it is a tight fit tho so it must be str8) put bolts back in do not go clock wise or counter clock wise.. go 11 to 5, 7 to 1 and so forth you get the idea.. this way you know it tightens up flush

now put everything back together good luck FTW and do a big burn out in front of your neighbors house

more links https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=kia+gear

more gears http://members.aol.com/solomiata/Drivetrain.html

cheers PaTricK

 

very nice!!
i would have opted to use the lsd clutch pack v.s the welded diff..
the axles break quicker, and the wheel bearings go out much quicker with the welded diff, and its a bitch to push when you turn the car.. been there done that!
its cheese time!!

 

call me a dumbass but what is the point in this?

 

^^ I Agree ^^
You could have just replaced the pinion gear and kept the LSD. It is more work but better in the long run.
Either way, PROPS on helping everyone out.
L8R

 

yeah, i'm not putting him down i just wonder why. faster accelaration?

 

you would have to replace the ring and pinion gear... the LSD was shot so it was just better to weld it....

 

for much faster accelaration.. and much cheeper the mazdatrix or racing beat

 

quicker acceleration w/ the sacrafice of a lower top speed

 

how much lower top speed?

 

it will still do 130+ how fast do you need to go lol

 

it depends on how high your motor makes power... acceleration is twice as fast thooo.. no matter what motor setup you have

 

Swap in a FC trans. The much higher 5th gear ratio will help offset the lower diff ratio.

 

"twice as fast" holy ****, can you come over and upgrade my car for me? lol

 

i dont even know how fast im goin now... stupid 90mph speedo


*edit* i just did the math, in 5th gear w/ 4.88 rearend, youd have to turn 8k to hit 135 , and 120 at stock redline

 

Swap in a 79 or 83 speedo.

 

mine is 1985, goes to 140mph. the speedo that is, not the car lol

 

depends on tire size taller tire less RPM

 

nice i want to do this swap so bad, one of best bang for ur buck upgrades. bump for!!!! great thread!!!!!