(DRIVETRAIN) the end all to KIA GEAR THREADS with pics
So I installed my gear today and i thought to myself. I need to do a write up so here it is. THE END ALL TO THE KIA GEAR THREADS
ok things you need PARTS: 83.5-85 drive shaft 83.5-85 rear end (this is the big axle rear end) 96+ Kia sportage 4X4 front 3rd member.. (also 94) 1 bolt/lock washer (dont remember size just take one from the RX7 3rd member I got 8 new ones) blue RTV 1 brake cleaner or carb cleaner rags 2 zip ties TOOLS: jack/ lift 2 jackstands 10mm wrench 12mm socket 12mm wrench 14mm socket 14mm wrench impact screwdriver BFH (big fucking hammer) flat head screw driver and a few other wrenches and stuff i cant think of right now .................................................. .................................................. .............................. ok here are some pics to show the kia gear next to the rx7. And to go over what is diff about the 2 of them... there is only 3 things diff nothing diff in this pic http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/6945/1001495fa3.jpg ok in this pic there is a mounting hole you will not need http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/3299/1001496lq0.jpg in this 1 you can see that all the holes are in the same place... the diff is the kia has a little bigger hole.. not a problem http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/6291/1001497wy8.jpg ok this is the 3rd and biggets diff... there is no lSD the kia gear is an open diff. This can be fixed 1 of 2 ways.. get the lsd out of the rx7 rear end or WELD IT :icon_tup: you can see witch way i opted for http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/3923/1001498ar5.jpg http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/8255/1001499lx3.jpg Ok I didn't get any pics :wallbash: of the install its self but its pretty str8 up so I will only throw in some tips drain axle housing jack up the car. put jack stands under the car( i like to put them on the subframe/ lower trailing arm mount. ok now that the jack stands are holding the car up. and you tested them to make sure they are not going to fall. pull the e-brake up brake the lug bolts lose. (let the e-brake down now or it will be hard to remove brakes :lol: ) ok pull the calipers off use the zip tie to hold the caliper up.. you can hang the zip tie from the top trailing arm bolt use the impact screwdriver to remove the 2 screws holding the brake rotors on...(if you don't have a impact screwdriver use a torch around the screw get it nice hot and back the screws out if you just try and back the out you may strip them:icon_no2: ) ok almost there ok now you need to take the brake line off from the dust cover... now this is not the RIGHT way but its works well if you don't want to lose all your brake fluid.. use a flat head screwdriver and hammer and pop the clip up that is holding the line to the dust cover now use 2 wrenches 1 on the rubber line side and 1 on the hard line side unhook them take them out of the dust cover now hook them back together so they stop leaking there are 3 12mm bolts holding the dust cover on the axle housing remove these now the axle is ready to come out... you can use the hammer to pry it out(not beat it out)put the ballpean side behind the axle where the brake rotor bolts to and the head of the hammer on the caliper bolt hole and push it should slide right out repeat to other side ok remove the 4 nuts holding the drive shaft to the 3rd member and slid the drive shaft back into the trans more.(don't pull the drive shaft all the way out of the trans unless you want a mess) just push it off the side out of the way remove all 8 bolts from the 3rd member(its not going to fall out at this point) ok it is got a little weight to it so be ready. do a little tip tap tappy to the 3rd member with a hammer(we are not trying ti kill it) it should come lose and brace it and pull it out( i put a trash bag on the ground with some rags cause the 3rd member is going to spill gear lube out use some carb/brake cleaner around the housing. make sure its nice and clean take off any old rtv. put a nice bead of rtv around the housing and the kia 3rd member slide str8 in(you do not need to do any grinding it is a tight fit tho so it must be str8) put bolts back in do not go clock wise or counter clock wise.. go 11 to 5, 7 to 1 and so forth you get the idea.. this way you know it tightens up flush now put everything back together good luck:fawk: :bigthumb: FTW and do a big burn out in front of your neighbors house more links https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=kia+gear more gears http://members.aol.com/solomiata/Drivetrain.html cheers PaTricK |
very nice!!
i would have opted to use the lsd clutch pack v.s the welded diff.. the axles break quicker, and the wheel bearings go out much quicker with the welded diff, and its a bitch to push when you turn the car.. been there done that! its cheese time!! |
call me a dumbass but what is the point in this?
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^^ I Agree ^^
You could have just replaced the pinion gear and kept the LSD. It is more work but better in the long run. Either way, PROPS on helping everyone out. L8R |
yeah, i'm not putting him down i just wonder why. faster accelaration?
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Originally Posted by lwnslw
(Post 7094343)
^^ I Agree ^^
You could have just replaced the pinion gear and kept the LSD. It is more work but better in the long run. Either way, PROPS on helping everyone out. L8R you would have to replace the ring and pinion gear... the LSD was shot so it was just better to weld it.... |
Originally Posted by 85rx7crazydriver
(Post 7094337)
call me a dumbass but what is the point in this?
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quicker acceleration w/ the sacrafice of a lower top speed
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how much lower top speed?
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it will still do 130+ how fast do you need to go lol
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Originally Posted by 85rx7crazydriver
(Post 7094414)
how much lower top speed?
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Swap in a FC trans. The much higher 5th gear ratio will help offset the lower diff ratio.
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Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
(Post 7094421)
it depends on how high your motor makes power... acceleration is twice as fast thooo.. no matter what motor setup you have
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Originally Posted by 81gsl12a
(Post 7094417)
it will still do 130+ how fast do you need to go lol
*edit* i just did the math, in 5th gear w/ 4.88 rearend, youd have to turn 8k to hit 135 , and 120 at stock redline |
Originally Posted by Sgt.Stinkfist
(Post 7094439)
i dont even know how fast im goin now... stupid 90mph speedo :(
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mine is 1985, goes to 140mph. the speedo that is, not the car lol
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Originally Posted by Sgt.Stinkfist
(Post 7094439)
i dont even know how fast im goin now... stupid 90mph speedo :(
*edit* i just did the math, in 5th gear w/ 4.88 rearend, youd have to turn 8k to hit 135 , and 120 at stock redline |
nice i want to do this swap so bad, one of best bang for ur buck upgrades. bump for!!!! great thread!!!!!
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