Wolf 3D Wont start
12-30-04, 07:18 PM
#1
Wont start
Today I tried starting up the car with my new wolf3d. The fuel system gets primed when the key turns on, hand contoller and ecu turn on. Then I crank it and will not start up. I dont think my fuel injectors are spraying and im not getting a spark. This makes me think its the CAS, but I wired it up just like on the diagram. Then I used nyt's write up on setting it to the stock CAS setup.
12-30-04, 09:04 PM
#2
This is dumb!!! I took the CAS out and spun it with my hand, heard the fuel injectors spraying and the RPMs were showing on my laptop display. When it's in the car I dont think it gets spun fast enough to get picked up, because if you spin it slow with your hand then it doesnt register either. What the hell is the problem?
12-30-04, 09:39 PM
#3
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does it "hit and miss" or absolutley no firing? Car wreak of fuel out the exhaust after a minute of cranking? you tried wearing a insulated glove, and pulling a plug and checking for spark?
Could be a couple of things, but if you hear injectors firing, the fuel pump priming, unless it's a clogged fuel filter, your fuel should be fine.
I had a similiar problem happen to me and my ignitor had burnt up. I wasn't getting any spark tho, so make sure to check your plugs for spark. (grounding it to the frame of course)
Could be a couple of things, but if you hear injectors firing, the fuel pump priming, unless it's a clogged fuel filter, your fuel should be fine.
I had a similiar problem happen to me and my ignitor had burnt up. I wasn't getting any spark tho, so make sure to check your plugs for spark. (grounding it to the frame of course)
12-30-04, 10:00 PM
#4
It's not picking up the CAS turning. It only picks it up when I turn it by hand which is faster than when it gets turned when cranking with starter. Yes the starter cranks fine and Yes did did try giving it a jump. I dont have any problems with my ignition or fuel system that I know of yet. I'm just having a problem with wolf3d picking up the CAS signal when im cranking the engine.
12-31-04, 12:05 AM
#5
K, here is the update. I found out if I spin the CAS by hand I can get it to spray fuel and make spark. The lowest I could get it to do its magic was 235 rpm on the hand held, which BTW is faster than the starter. So I called up Chris and he told me to try adding a 1k ohm resister to the blue green and brown white wires leading to the CAS. This was a bridge between the 2 wires. Worked like a charm, got spark and fuel working while I crank, but by this point I already flooded the crap out of my engine spinning the CAS by hand. Tomorrow I get to pull start it and see how she runs.
12-31-04, 05:21 PM
#6
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well here's the beutty of the wolf, if you floor the car while cranking, it actually cuts all fuel. it's called flood clear, providing your map is setup to take advantage of it
try flooing it while cranking for about 10 revolutions, then crank as normal (no pedal) should fired right up
try flooing it while cranking for about 10 revolutions, then crank as normal (no pedal) should fired right up
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10-20-05, 07:51 PM
#9
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^^ To the Top!
im havng this issue now.. 8 months later...
I tried the resistor however it isnt working for me. where did you do the bridge? At the cas? or somewhere in the harness possibly near the ecu?
-Jacob
im havng this issue now.. 8 months later...
I tried the resistor however it isnt working for me. where did you do the bridge? At the cas? or somewhere in the harness possibly near the ecu?
-Jacob
10-21-05, 06:56 AM
#11
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No signal, or atleast not a constent one.
The colder it gets, the slower my engine turns over.. slightly. If i get in my car and see intake temps of 9 or 10*, usualy the car takes a bit to get running. Turn it over a bunch and you can hear it start to pickup speed, i start to get a stedy rpm signal and off we go. However i got in the car yeasterday and the intake temps were 2*. My bat was giving out on me when i started to get speratic rpm signals, 0, 0, 0, 0, op 125, 0, 0, 0, 52185 , 0 , 0, etc nothing thats going to start the car
If my car was warm, it would turn over quicker, and i would get a stedy rpm signal
Ive already moved the magnets as close to the center as i can
-Jacob
The colder it gets, the slower my engine turns over.. slightly. If i get in my car and see intake temps of 9 or 10*, usualy the car takes a bit to get running. Turn it over a bunch and you can hear it start to pickup speed, i start to get a stedy rpm signal and off we go. However i got in the car yeasterday and the intake temps were 2*. My bat was giving out on me when i started to get speratic rpm signals, 0, 0, 0, 0, op 125, 0, 0, 0, 52185 , 0 , 0, etc nothing thats going to start the car
If my car was warm, it would turn over quicker, and i would get a stedy rpm signal
Ive already moved the magnets as close to the center as i can
-Jacob
10-21-05, 09:40 PM
#12
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Jacob try placing a 22nf capacitor...100Volt green cap across each pickup i.e. between the red and white this may help (i have this on mine).... also a electric bed heater wrapped around your battery to warm it up may help. Or then you could move to a warm place like I live. In Australia it is usually hot so cold starting doesn't get worked on very often. If the wolf would fire at a set point after a ign input pulse it would solve the problem...but it waits for a stable signal. If it fired just once the engine rpm would rise high enough to get a stable signal. Maybe a new software version could be used for colder countries.
Regards
Michael Smith
Regards
Michael Smith
10-22-05, 08:57 PM
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My pickup sensivity is on very low also
100volt caps on the pickup? and this doesnt damage the wolf?
Am i just wiring them inline with the red and white wires? or across them?
-Jacob
100volt caps on the pickup? and this doesnt damage the wolf?
Am i just wiring them inline with the red and white wires? or across them?
-Jacob
10-24-05, 03:49 PM
#16
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Jacob put the greencap across them, it stops false triggering. My guess is that your engine earth is dirty though, after thinking on it for a while. Noisy earth means noisy signal and it usually only shows up during cranking when high currents pass from your starter via your motor earth cable. I have a heavy cable between my engine and chassis and also my battery.
Regards
Michael Smith
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Michael Smith
11-17-05, 09:43 PM
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I am currently having a weird issue with my V4+, but good ole chris found the answer for me tonight. When he answered the phone "i have been waiting for you to call" i knew it was somthin good. I recently sent my ecu off to wolf to be repaired (cap explowed on a/c signal circuit) when i got it back went to crank and no go. Had fuel, but no spark. turns out the brand new wolf has a new setting, once i wil find out tomarrow night(it's raining
) from chirs i will let you know. he said it will be fixed in the new software soon to come out.
) from chirs i will let you know. he said it will be fixed in the new software soon to come out.
11-18-05, 12:37 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by wakeman811
I am currently having a weird issue with my V4+, but good ole chris found the answer for me tonight. When he answered the phone "i have been waiting for you to call" i knew it was somthin good. I recently sent my ecu off to wolf to be repaired (cap explowed on a/c signal circuit) when i got it back went to crank and no go. Had fuel, but no spark. turns out the brand new wolf has a new setting, once i wil find out tomarrow night(it's raining) from chirs i will let you know. he said it will be fixed in the new software soon to come out.
) from chirs i will let you know. he said it will be fixed in the new software soon to come out.you mean the forumer's software...
Good luck by the way. Strange... i habe the version 4.61, and i started instantly
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