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Wolf 3D Wolf Trigger issues on a series 4

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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 03:29 AM
  #1  
iswinkels's Avatar
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From: Cairns
Wolf Trigger issues on a series 4

Hi everyone,

Well i'm setting up my first Wolf on a series 4 13B NA engine thats in an RX3. I didn't wire the car personally but have been asked to make the car run since I have a fair background with tuning the wolf ecu on other jap cars.

So far I've located a series 4 map on this forum and installed it in the ECU. This got the car running... sort of. When cranking and at low engine speeds when the engine starts the ecu reports excessive noise on the hand controller. I have found that changing the trigger level from Very Low to Medium once the car has started immediatly solves the triggering issue and the engine purrs beautifully.

The big issue is that it takes a while to get it to start as it occasionally reports eratic RPM figures due to the the low triggering level.

The car will not detect any triggering at all on the medium or low settings when cranking. The distributor sensor is un-modifed. The ignition system is a 4 coil arrangement.

I have attached a copy of the map. As yet I havn't been able to setup the base timing so a lot of the values are going to be a fair way out i'd imagine.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated!

Cheers,
Ian Swinkels
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 04:56 AM
  #2  
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From: Se Qld Aus
Hi ian,
I had much the same problems with a Toyota 4agze engine distributor , in which they use much the same magnetic pick up sensor,
Few things i found to improve it but didn`t fix it 100%, the wolf V4 seems alot more sensitive in what signals it picks up and reads as a good signal , because when i plug my old V3 wolf in it started better with no adjustments,

i found a improvement in getting a better signal by doing the following things ;

Make sure your "Signal" wire and your "Earth" wire are not reversed ,

Make sure you have your "Trigger "setting is set correctly .

I removed the tooth pick up Wheel and drive shaft from the distributor and trued it up in the lathe , so that the egdes of the teeth are square and sharp on the wheel with no run out , This wheel had been modified before this , So this where these problem came from ,

Make sure that your Air gap on the distributor Pick up is not to wide , if the problem of "no signal" gets worse when the Engine gets hotter , by reducing the air gap you will improve this ,

V3 they say to fit a capacitor between the Dist signal and earth wires ,Iam still using this on the V4 so it didn`t seem to improve it much , if any

Also make sure the power supply for the ECU is Not taken off the starter motor bat +ive so that you get a cleaner voltage to the Ecu

keep the Dist Pick up wires away from the other Electrical wires ect to reduce electrical interferance,

Wolf makes a reluctor module that converts the Sine wave signal to a Square wave signal .but i haven`t tried this

Retro fit a hall sensor to get a cleaner signal when cranking instead of the Magnetic sensor,
i was looking at fitting a Camshaft sensor off a BMW to do this, but havent as of yet .

My feelings is the wolf V3 picks up the magnetic sensor signals better that the V4 dose .for some reason and wolf the make a Reluctor to fix this problem , but i haven`t got any more info to confirm this is 100% correct ,

Any way hope that Helps

Last edited by Cameron_Datto; Nov 14, 2006 at 05:08 AM.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 07:50 AM
  #3  
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From: North Queensland Australia
Hey Ian whats your reluctor gap???? Measure all your pickup reluctor gaps and find the smallest gap mark it with a black marker. Then set it as close as you dare. Bear in mind that the shaft wobbles and very low clearence can lead to contact. Mine is set at 2 thou and all mine are very similar in gap. You can cleanup the reluctor and make the gap deviation much less but a lathe is really the best option. Also I have seen some pickups lose turns causing a lower output voltage int this case a reluctor amp by Wolf or MSD is the best option. (If you are not technically minded stop reading NOW) You can make one if you use a BC549 and a 555 timer in single shot mode with a output square pulse of 0.0001 seconds use the 5 Volt supply from the Wolf OR you can use a BC549 and a Schmitt trigger per channel a total of 2 BC549s and 2 Schmitt triggers to produce good clean square waves.

Cheers
Michael Smith
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 03:56 PM
  #4  
iswinkels's Avatar
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From: Cairns
Hi Guys,

Cameron,

Which colour wires on the output from the two sensors in the distributor are the ones I pair together as the signal ground? I suspect that is a high probability cause for the problem, as the guy that wired the manual made a bunch of other common mistakes like running the trigger loom under 4 coil packs.

Michael, I'll measure the air gap next available opportunity I get. 2 thou sounds very close though. I think i'll creep up on that slowly to see if i get an improvement gradually.

One other thing... The throttle position sensor turned seems to be a switch, not a variable resistor. Either that or its completly worn out and is sending out bad signal data. Can anyone confirm if it is a switch or a resistor for me? For the moment i've had to set transient enrichment up to use the MAP sensor.

Cheers,
Ian
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 01:50 AM
  #5  
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Yes that is right the factory TPS is no good for a Wolf. I fitted a VDO TPS over the rear of the Throttle body mounted onto the Bell housing bolts then wired it to the old TPS wires. Another problem fixed I bet.

Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S. watch the fuel pump stuff too!!!!
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 03:21 AM
  #6  
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From: Se Qld Aus
Ian ,
not sure what colour wires you have from the pick up , But the only info i have is from the V3 wolf manual , for the 24 vane pick up use the WHITE wire for TRIG SIGNAL 1 and RED wire for TRIG GROUND ,
The Toyota Distributor has Different colours to tha mazda on the pick up ,

Cheers Cam
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 03:22 AM
  #7  
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From: Cairns
Fuel pump stuff ? The fuel system in the car uses a holly blue to fill a surge tank and an 044 bosh external pump to supply the fuel rail. These are controlled by the wolf and run from seperate relays...
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 03:25 AM
  #8  
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Thanks Cameron, I think there are two white wires... one from each sensor, and its fairly safe to say they are wired backwards too. As in both white wires together as the ground signal to the blue/shield wolf wire, and then each of the other sensor wires to the trig 1 (brown) and trig 2 (yellow) wires.

I think i'll have this whipped soon! Going to try make time to work on it tomorrow.

Cheers, I'll let you all know how it turns out

Ian
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 04:43 AM
  #9  
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From: Se Qld Aus
ian,
If they are wired up to the wrong wire , after you set up your Engine ignition timing so it reads the same as the wolf is reading on the hand set , AT IDLE . Then you rev the engine up so the iginition adavnces and recheck what the wolf igniton deg in relation to the engine degs , If both read the same in the higher RPm your is Wiring ok , if the engine timimg is reading different to Wolf reading by a large amount of Deg in the HIGHER rpm , Then there is a good chance its due to the wires being reversed, this is worth checking just to make sure ,

Last edited by Cameron_Datto; Nov 15, 2006 at 04:50 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 05:11 AM
  #10  
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From: Se Qld Aus
Have a look at the wolf Dealer TECH 2 on this page for correct wiring
http://www.wolfems.com/component/opt...,19/Itemid,48/
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 05:22 AM
  #11  
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From: Se Qld Aus
Have a look at the wolf Dealer TECH 2 on this page for correct wiring
http://www.wolfems.com/component/opt...,19/Itemid,48/
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 05:06 AM
  #12  
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You also may find a zeroing map for the version 4 will make your life easier.

Cheers
Michael Smith
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